Stick welder: Why DC?

[rankrank1]

Thats funny, I hear the 7018 is called the idiot rod, or maybe it was called the monkey rod?

No 7018 is not usually considered one of the easiest rods to use - it can even be quite tempermental and some lower level welding power supplies struggle to burn even the 7018AC version of it which burns easier than plain ole 7018. Plus 7018 should be stored in a rod oven to boot so it will never be considered an idiot rod. That said 7018 defiitely does have it places that it should be used.

I am only a hack level welder, and I do like 7014 as it burns sweet whether on AC or DC. I do not use it everywhere though, but if I am struggling then 7014 it is but NONE and I do mean NONE of my welds would ever be deemed critical. If a weld is critical then it should be done by someone who knows what they are doing.

My definition of critical: If that weld fails will it injure either me or worse yet some other innocent bystander? If the answer is no then I weld it. If yes, then I pay someone to do it who has the proper training.

That all said, I stock some 6011, some 6013, and some 7014 and thats it. These 3 rod types cover all my needs. Any of these rods burn on AC or DC and do not require rod oven storage so are perfect for my backyard non-critical needs.

 

[k0ua]

I had always heard that the 7014 was the idiot rod, and the 6013 was the Bambi or monkey rod. I chose the 7014 because it used to give me better results when I was on my Lincoln AC welder. My power supply is up to par, but I think it's me that isn't up to par. I never knew what to look for in welding. Was the current selection right? Was I going to fast or slow? How long of an arc? My DC results were so bad, I just gave it up. The best thing would have been a classroom session, but now the hands aren't up to par.

I am guessing you never actually saw the puddle and learned how to move. It is like a light goes on when you finally figure out the puddle, settle down, and start seeing what the heck you are doing.. 7014, you can stick right in the puddle and drag it.

James K0UA

 

[IslandTractor]

7014, you can stick right in the puddle and drag it.

James K0UA

Yep. I was taught 7014 was a "drag rod". No need to maintain any gap at all. Looks pretty too but one always wonders a bit about penetration.

 

[terraformer]

Tons of info. Particularly with just one morning.

Let me revisit DC welding. I think I will try my monkey rod (6013). I like the ease of stick welding. Just make sure I have some rod to use. Making my Thunderbolt 225 do some TIG would be cool, in the future though.

 

[rankrank1]

I had always heard that the 7014 was the idiot rod, and the 6013 was the Bambi or monkey rod. I chose the 7014 because it used to give me better results when I was on my Lincoln AC welder. My power supply is up to par, but I think it's me that isn't up to par. I never knew what to look for in welding. Was the current selection right? Was I going to fast or slow? How long of an arc? My DC results were so bad, I just gave it up. The best thing would have been a classroom session, but now the hands aren't up to par.

I can relate to your frustration. My very first welder was a tiny fixed 50 amp AC output welder about the size of a battery charger. Picked it up at a yard sale for $8.00. It was 20 plus years ago when I acquired it so was not on the internet so help was not easily available. LWS sold me 1/16" 6010 rods to try using with it. 6010 is a DC only rod so you can only imagine my frustration trying to use it with AC powersource. I got so frustrated that I threw it in the corner and never used it.

A decade later I buy a 115 volt mig due to this earlier frustration with the tiny stick unit as I listend to all the hearsay rage about mig. Do not get me wrong I have a great mig welder, but it was a costly purchase and is only a 1 trick pony. Eventually I acquire a Lincoln AC225 and start educating myself about rod types. Once I learned a little about rod and the differences between AC and DC then I dug out that crappy little 50 amp fixed stick welder out of the corner where it had sat for nearly 15 years unused. You know what, it will burn some (5/64" 6013 or some 1/16 7014) rods pretty decent for what it is. If I had only had that info 15 years sooner then there are some things that I could have easily repaired with that little unit instead of having nothing.

My welding arsenal now consists of a) That original little crappy 50 amp AC stick welder B) Lincoln SP-135P mig and C) Miller Thunderbolt AC225/DC150

Anyway even now I learn more and more everyday both from the internet and self practice. Still a hack and I often misread the puddle and even totally miss some areas when welding (my eyesight is not the best and my hands are not the steadiest either). You know what: grind it clean and reweld what you missed. Again none of my stuff is critical so no big deal and most of the stuff I repair is being saved from being scrapped so it does not have to be the prettiest in appearance - it simply needs to be functionally sound.

Lastly, nice thing about 7014 is it sets the gap for you as it is a contact rod and the flux burns away such that it maintains the proper gap at all times so now only have to worry about amperage and travel speed hence the term "idiot rod". 6013 is nearly as easy to use as 7014 but not quite and 6013 can be prone to wormholing. I pretyy much only use 6013 on really thin metal and I could probably drop it from my arsenal altogether if I was forced to but it has its place. 6011 takes some skill to use as the user does have to contol the arc gap.

 

[k0ua]

Tons of info. Particularly with just one morning.

Let me revisit DC welding. I think I will try my monkey rod (6013). I like the ease of stick welding. Just make sure I have some rod to use. Making my Thunderbolt 225 do some TIG would be cool, in the future though.

At the risk of "P" off some 6013 lovers.. ... 6013 was never my best rod.. try some 7014 in 3/32 on DC and see if you don't get some pleasing results. I do use 6013, for some for light work, and tacking, but I think 7014 makes nicer looking welds and is at least as easy if not easier to run. My preferred rod is 7018. but it can be a little trouble sometimes. but give the 7014 a try, you will need to run the amps up some as it wants to run hot, and it lays down fast. so hold your arc tight and keep moving. Amps anywhere from 80 to 125 even with the 3/32 depending on metal thickness. start at 100 and adjust.

James K0UA

 

[Shield Arc]

Seeing the puddle is one thing, being able to tell the difference between molten metal and slag is another. Then the real trick is, making the puddle do exactly what you want it to do!

 

[terraformer]

Just went over to the local hardware store. They had others but no 7014. Going to use what I have right now and do some DC welding.
Great group.

 

[IslandTractor]

Just went over to the local hardware store. They had others but no 7014. Going to use what I have right now and do some DC welding.
Great group.

HF stocks it

 

[terraformer]

Spent a few minutes looking for it and only found 1/16" 7014. My technique sucks probably.

Remembered that I have an open account at Mcmasters.com so I clicked on it. They will send me a bill. Will probably have it either tomorrow or thursday.

Next need a project.

Last question: If DC is better why does my welder weld in AC too?