There was only very minor corrosion at the bottom of the cylinders. The camera makes it look much worse than it really is.
My 1966 Massey 135 Tractor (Pics)
- Thread starter MasseyWV
- Start date
- Views: 190782
-
- Tags
- massey ferguson 135
There was only very minor corrosion at the bottom of the cylinders. The camera makes it look much worse than it really is.
Today, I removed the engine block from the tractor. It took a bit of effort, but it wasn't too bad overall. The engine is sitting on a piece of plywood until I remove the clutch assembly and flywheel so I can mount the engine block to the engine stand for the rebuild.
Also, I placed an order with a local dealer for the engine rebuild kit and other needed parts, they should be here in a week or two, then the real fun begins. As a word of advice to anyone who is looking for parts, always be sure to check with several dealers in your area, because some of the online vendors aren't as cheap as they appear to be. For instance, on the parts I've ordered, one of my local dealers sells the exact same parts for roughly 10-20% cheaper. Granted, some dealers are over priced, but not all of them, much to my surprise.
Also, I placed an order with a local dealer for the engine rebuild kit and other needed parts, they should be here in a week or two, then the real fun begins. As a word of advice to anyone who is looking for parts, always be sure to check with several dealers in your area, because some of the online vendors aren't as cheap as they appear to be. For instance, on the parts I've ordered, one of my local dealers sells the exact same parts for roughly 10-20% cheaper. Granted, some dealers are over priced, but not all of them, much to my surprise.
Depmandog
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2010
- Messages
- 2,038
- Location
- Buckner MO, LaPlata MO
- Tractor
- 2005 Kubota L5030 GST; Farmall 706, 756, 806 & 1086
Great thread! I had noticed this thread a few weeks ago, but never took the time to read until tonight. Started at day one to present, very interesting and an enjoyable read!
You know, you keep "expanding" the scope of this project.....I bet before it's done you are opening up the rear and going thru the backside!!!
You know those hydraulics bleed down in 15 minutes....bet those brakes could use some work...haha. Just ribbing you a bit.
Keep up the good work, nothing like a good tractor project for therapeutic purposes.
You know, you keep "expanding" the scope of this project.....I bet before it's done you are opening up the rear and going thru the backside!!!
You know those hydraulics bleed down in 15 minutes....bet those brakes could use some work...haha. Just ribbing you a bit.
Keep up the good work, nothing like a good tractor project for therapeutic purposes.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
consider doing the trans input shaft seal.. and of course you will be doing rear main. inspect clutch and flywheel, and ring gear at this time as well.
Great thread! I had noticed this thread a few weeks ago, but never took the time to read until tonight. Started at day one to present, very interesting and an enjoyable read!
You know, you keep "expanding" the scope of this project.....I bet before it's done you are opening up the rear and going thru the backside!!!
You know those hydraulics bleed down in 15 minutes....bet those brakes could use some work...haha. Just ribbing you a bit.
Keep up the good work, nothing like a good tractor project for therapeutic purposes.
I'm glad you enjoyed reading it. Stay tuned, there is much more to come. Oh, and the brakes and hydraulics are on the to-do list, although they'll have to wait since I've blown my budget on the engine.
Great suggestions, and they're all definitely on the to-do list, especially the rear main and transmission input shaft seals.
Today, I finished stripping the engine block by removing the crankshaft, camshaft, and tappets. Getting the rear main cap off took a lot of time and required great care to avoid damaging anything.
The following pictures are of the engine block as it hangs upside down, just outside of my garage door, soaking in degreaser. After the degreaser has done it's job, I'll hose it down and wash it in a mild soap solution, before using my air hose to blow all the water off. Note that I'm using Gunk engine degreaser rather than oven cleaner, because Gunk won't harm the primer I've already applied and oven cleaner is too corrosive to risk any of it getting trapped in the oil passages.
The following pictures are of the engine block as it hangs upside down, just outside of my garage door, soaking in degreaser. After the degreaser has done it's job, I'll hose it down and wash it in a mild soap solution, before using my air hose to blow all the water off. Note that I'm using Gunk engine degreaser rather than oven cleaner, because Gunk won't harm the primer I've already applied and oven cleaner is too corrosive to risk any of it getting trapped in the oil passages.
vegaome
Silver Member
Hello Massey,
That is some nasty looking stuff in there. I don't think I will ever use stop leak again. How hard was it to pull the sleves and did it require any special tools?
v/r
Mike
That is some nasty looking stuff in there. I don't think I will ever use stop leak again. How hard was it to pull the sleves and did it require any special tools?
v/r
Mike
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
GOTTA love glyptol
The sleeves weren't difficult to remove, but pulling them does require a sleeve-puller tool. The tool can be somewhat expensive, so I made my own using some scrap steel and a long threaded bolt.
