Prep & Paint for Jubilee Chasis

[Tractor Ninja]

Sounds good, here is the game plan:

1. Oven Cleaner - let sit overnight
2. Presure Washer - remove oven cleaner and all flaking paint
3. Power wire - remove any paint the pressure washer doens't take off
4. Klean Strip - phosphoric prep per manufacturer's direction
5. Paint Thinner - final cleaner
6. Primer - use spray gun to apply. Primer to be compatible with paint
7. Paint with Majic hardner - use spray gun to apply. Wear respirator and sunglasses to cut down on the shininess of the new paint;-)

 

[Dollar Bill]

Sounds like a good plan of attack. Here's the info I promised on the hardener:

Use hardener. Valspar, Kirker, 5 star, whatever. Just make sure you use acrylic enamel hardener. also, use acrylic enamel reducer, not lacquer thinner. It is very important.

Follow my mix ratio and not what the can says. 8:6:1
8 parts paint
6 parts reducer
1 part hardener
Use a quality wax and grease remover liberally before painting. (Prop-Sol is a DuPont product that I've great results with)

Red or gray scotch-brite pads make it short work to get things perfectly clean and properly scuffed.

 

[Soundguy]

the ommon HF guns are sometimes binks knock offs.

usually you can get a syphon or hvlp gun from HF for 20$ or so.. or the kit with a gun and connectors for 25$

a 25$ gun and 25$/gallon paint.. 14$ can of hardner, 20$ a gallon primer.. 10$ stack of sand paper, 20$of bondo, and a 5$ spray bottle of purple stuff plus a BUNCH of hours of elbow grease and sweat equity wll yeild a paint job that looks DARN good.

on the other hand.. a 200$ gun, and 200$ a gallon paint plus $$$ supplies and 10 minutes of prep work will yeail a cruddy job.

it's mostly in the prep than in t he tools and materials. cheap paint.. cheap tools.. and lots of prep time look better than expensive tools and materials and cheap prep work..

The last paint gun I purchased was a Binks # 7 in 1975 so I won't be much help. Still works as good as the day I bought it. You gotta have a quick wrist because it puts out paint like a garden hose.

I'm sure Soundguy will be along shortly to help with a gun selection.

If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, this is what you want for the Rustoleum - I'm away from my receipe until Friday if no one else makes a recommendation, I can get it for you.

Majicｮ Catalyst Hardener, 1/2 pint - 1177127 | Tractor Supply Company

 

[Soundguy]

ps... othing makes a flaw in body work stand out quite as much as paint.

 

[Tractor Ninja]

Great information and thank you for sharing! I'm off with a shopping list this weekend, while my projects tend to go much slower than planned, I'll keep this thread up to date.

Quick question, I'm assuming that the wax and grease remover should be used prior to the oven cleaner or righ after?

Sounds like a good plan of attack. Here's the info I promised on the hardener:

Use hardener. Valspar, Kirker, 5 star, whatever. Just make sure you use acrylic enamel hardener. also, use acrylic enamel reducer, not lacquer thinner. It is very important.

Follow my mix ratio and not what the can says. 8:6:1
8 parts paint
6 parts reducer
1 part hardener
Use a quality wax and grease remover liberally before painting. (Prop-Sol is a DuPont product that I've great results with)

Red or gray scotch-brite pads make it short work to get things perfectly clean and properly scuffed.

 

[Tractor Ninja]

Without breaking out the almighty google power, what are the main differences between a syphon and hvlp gun? I've got a decent air compressor, if that makes a difference.

the ommon HF guns are sometimes binks knock offs.

usually you can get a syphon or hvlp gun from HF for 20$ or so.. or the kit with a gun and connectors for 25$

 

[Tractor Ninja]

Sage advice and well taken. I am taking a bit of a shortcut on this as a buddy who runs a local paint and body shop is working the tin for me. I believe a wise man knows his own limitations and I definetly have many limitations, my problem is that I'm not overly wise either;-) My "skin in the game" on this project is the chasis and engine paint and I want it to look as good as the professionally re-worked and painted tin will. In addition, I am blown away on how well these tractors hold up over time. I'm fortunate to live in an arid environment so if I pull this re-paint off well, it should give this Jube another 50+ years!

ps... othing makes a flaw in body work stand out quite as much as paint.

 

[Dollar Bill]

I'm assuming that the wax and grease remover should be used prior to the oven cleaner or righ after?

Just before you are ready to paint - First wash with enamel thinner followed by Prep-Sol and then blow down with an air hose with a moisture separator on it.

what are the main differences between a syphon and hvlp gun? I've got a decent air compressor, if that makes a difference.

Siphon guns use a lot of air to atomize the paint - It uses the venturi effect to suction the paint of of the paint cup. It also means more over spray.

HVLP (High Volume, Low Pressure) is more like a paint pot in that the paint cup is pressurized which provides more paint with less air and less over spray.

The HVLP would probably be easier to learn to paint with.

 

[Soundguy]

ditto what DB said.

generally syphon guns are cheaper and use alot more air. the hvlp put down alot of paint.

if you are learnign for the first time.. get hvlp.. if you have used a syphon and switch to hvlp.. you will probably get runs on the first shot.. so test paint some cardboard.

I like both.. and use both for different applications..e tc.