Rotary Cutter New Guy Question on Old Rotary Cutter

[Bladerunner6]

Greetings to All

This is my first post on TBN and have some questions related to an old rotary cutter. I have a 1981 model Ford 2600 tractor that came with an assortment of implements, one of which was what I assume to be an old Ford rotary cutter. It sort of looks like a Ford 951 and has traces of Ford blue paint, so I am assuming its a Ford.

My question has to do with the safety of operating the attachment. I have used it 6 times or so with no problem, but last time I was mowing began to wonder whether the blades should be tightened or not. Is this a periodic maintenance thing I should be concerned about? Do blades literally fly off these things? I began thinking of just how deadly one of these things would be.

If they do need checking for tightening, do I literally stand it on edge and brace it against something and check the bolts?

Thanks

 

[kebo]

Welcome to TBN!!

Checking the bolts on the blades on your bush hog is something you should not normally have to do. However, if it will give you peace of mind, it doesn't hurt to check them on occasion, assuming you can do that in a safe manner. Usually, the bolts are tightened with an impact wrench anyway. About the only time a blade "flies off" is when it hits something hard enough to break, obviously that does happen on occasion.

 

[gwdixon]

Agree with kebo. However, since you have never worked on it and don't know the circumstances it would probably be best to check the nuts.

If there is access through the top of the cutter by a large hole then just line up the nut with the hole and zap it with an impact wrench on full power until it (both of them) won't turn any more.

If no hole for access then you can chain the 3PH to the FEL and lift it that way. The curl function on the FEL should lift the cutter at an angle so you can get access. Usually these old type of cutters require taking off a large bolt in the middle and then you can access the blade bolts on the upper side of the stump jumper (if so equipped).

If no FEL then shorten the 3PH top link all the way and lift the cutter to the top. Be sure to put a jack stand under it. Then you'll have to do a bit of crawling to access the underside.

While you are there you may want to sharpen the blades. You'll be surprised at how much better it will cut. It doesn't have to be sharpened to a knife edge. Just a dull edge is fine.

 

[creekbend]

Just a suggestion? While you are doing all the other maintenance, why not check the gear oil in the gearbox? That is, if you haven't already done this. If the oil looks to be like a milkshake-Grey, Brown in color, this would indicate that there is water or moisture present. When putting the plug back in, just hand tighten.Just a thought. Best wishes.

 

[Bigfoot62]

. . . My question has to do with the safety of operating the attachment. I have used it 6 times or so with no problem, but last time I was mowing began to wonder whether the blades should be tightened or not. Is this a periodic maintenance thing I should be concerned about? Do blades literally fly off these things? I began thinking of just how deadly one of these things would be. . .

:welcome: to TBN. Glad to have you aboard.

Unless the blades have been changed recently, and someone used the wrong bolts/nuts, you don't have anything to worry about. Cutter blades are fastened to the "stump jumper" by hardened bolts with self-locking nuts. They don't "fly off" by themselves. In fact, if they have been untouched for years, you might need a cutting torch to get them off.

As already suggested, check the gear oil. It could probably use a change. :thumbsup:

 

[murphy1244]

On the gear oil you should see some oil plugs on the side of the drive unit. One is to fill and another is a fill mark, a drain is at the bottom. 90weight gear oil will do.

 

[Bladerunner6]

Thanks to all for the replies. I will probably just get under the cutter to take a look at it and not mess with trying to tighten the blades.

I have been checking the gear oil and greasing the rear wheel and PTO shaft every use. The gear box has a significant leak, so I have to pretty much put in at least a pint of 90 weight every use.

 

[Soundguy]

also, be aware that the bolts used are a shouldered bolt and go in and tighen up only so far, thes the balde can rotate onthe bolt so that it can fold back and 'avoid' an obstacle.

if there is a slip clutch in the driveline.. adjust it and exercise it as well.

ditto onthe gear oil and touching up the blades a bit too.

 

[LD1]

I second the notion to check them. But if they are tight, dont worry about them ever again until you need to take them off. This will give you peice of mind.

I would also caution against using the impact to tighten them. Especially if you ever do take them off and put them back on. There are not many homeowners out there that have an impact capable of torquing them enough. Using the impact is fine, but a good 3/4 drive ratchet or breaker bar, with about a 4' pipe, and applying 150 or so pounds against that pipe is about the only way to get them as tight as they are supposed to be.

Now if you have a high end 1/2 drive or 3/4 drive impact gun, then that would be fine.

 

[Soundguy]

i've found owning a tractor that a 3/4 gun was near minimum anymore and a 1" was nice. the 3/8 gun hasn't been used in a decade.. and the half inch gun only does rider lawnmower blades..