Three way Ridgid Pipe threader?

[MotorSeven]

I need to run quite a bit of 3/4 & 1/2" black pipe into the house(new construction) from a propane tank. I'm looking at the Ridgid model 30-A & 31-A. Can anyone tell me the difference between the two? They look identical and take the same dies. Anyway, they are real expensive($200+) new, but I see them on fleabay for around $50.

If anyone has used one or something similar in a manual threader to thread pipe, and info is appreciated.

 

[PICK]

I believe that the 30-A is an older model number and has been replaced by the 31-A

 

[HarryVanderpool]

I have a 31-A
If you buy one and find that you need parts be aware that they can be purchaced for a very reasonable price at:
Pressing Technology - RIDGID Professional Tools

 

[forgeblast]

When we did our basement (hardline Black pipe for propane), I drew up a plan for where the runs needed to go (and for any wish list or down the road items we might get) and then just bought the 3/4 pipe for it. It was threaded on both ends. I put in shut off valves off every tee, and off every appliance.
Once I had all that done, my propane company came in and checked all the joints and ran flex pipe off the 3/4 main to the appliances. They were real reasonable to hook it up and check the line.
They used the propane (yellow) teflon tape and some type of liquid blocker to hook it up. They made it look real easy. I used blueblocker, man that stuff gets everywhere. When I did it after using the blueblocker it was three hand turns and then using the pipe wrench three more turns.

 

[crazyal]

Threading pipe is messy so make sure you have lots of cardboard you can put down and be careful you don't step in the oil and track it around your house. I would suggest getting an oiler. You can buy thread cutting oil in spray cans but, at least in my case, I felt like I wasn't using enough oil when using the spray cans. With the oiler I would just flood the dies and let it run back into the pan. Also, I would thread the end of the pipe cut off and then leave it angled so any oil still on the pipe would run into the pan.

 

[MotorSeven]

Ok guys, thanks. I just bought a used 30-A with good cutter dies for $39 shipped, and a vintage Reed pipe vise for $23 shipped. This should cover any situation where I have to cut and thread.

I wish my propane company would do the final install for free, but they won't. What they will do for free is a pressure/leak check of the entire system. So I figure it's cheaper to buy a couple of tools & do the install myself.

 

[BHD]

you may want to get a schrader valve and a reducer plug, that will accept the valve, and a tee with a gage on it as well, , and a cap and pressure test, ever so often, especially if you have a number of elbows, so you do not have to back out a bunch pipe if a leak occurs and needs an extra turn or so, pressure it up and some soapy water and a brush, if it leaks you will see a mess of little bubbles, (big leak bubbles may not form as they will be burst before forming, but the gage will be drooping, air and let it set for 30 Min's and see if the PSI holds, and also soap teat,

check the entire fitting as I have seen some fittings that are porous,

apparently they make a premade unit, Gas Line Test Gauge - Google Search

 

[MotorSeven]

I appreciate the tips, keep 'em coming. Here is what I have & what I plan:

Purchased a 605 gallon tank to be set 40' from the house.
3/4" black pipe into house, then straight down the center of the basement(through 1'st floor floor trusses).
trunk off the 3/4" with 1/2" flex pipe to:
-tankless propane hot water heater 6.3 gpm(mounted outside directly to incoming 3/4 pipe after the regulator of course)
-stove top
-propane fireplace insert(it might require a 3/4...have not purchased it yet, <30,000 btu)
-gas grill on deck

So as you see the load is not huge. I am heating with wood, so the gas fireplace is more for ahhhhmbeeeance.

 

[PICK]

If the pipe fron the tank to your house is buried, be careful. I have been in the mechanical business for over 40 years, and we never bury black pipe. In time it will rust out and then you have a real problem.
For buried we use a product called X-TRU Coat. It is black pipe with a factory applied plastic coating and it will last a long time. Since you are a home owner and not a contractor you probably do nit have access to this product. Another point, 40' of pipe is going to require a joint underground. Not a good idea. I suggest using type "k" soft copper ( comes in 60' coils) tubing for the underground portion of the piping.

 

[Rock knocker]

I would take the advice of the last two posters, clearly professionals. I didn't go thru the UA because I worked in a merit environment, but my two primary bosses did, and were actually long-time instructors for the UA. As such, they took the time to teach me very well. And the advice you have recieved from PICK and Artisan is top notch.

I would add that if you are running underground, look at plastic gas pipe. As far as threading, I would get my ducks in a row and then go rent a machine and be done with it in a day. Hand threading never seemed like fun.