kubota 7040sud adding wieght to rear

[case245]

i have an 7040sud fel 4x4 loaded rear tires cast center can i add more weights to the cast centers they have square holes in them if so how much more can i add the back end was off the ground today

 

[gwdixon]

Just add an implement (or ballast box) to the 3PH. If the rears come off the ground then you need more weight.

The FEL's hydraulics should go into relief before the rear tires come off the ground.

 

[mdelmarcelle]

I have a same tractor, same setup, cast rears. I've had the rear end lighten up on me once. Not a good feeling. And I don't agree with the thought that the hydraulics would go into relief before the rear end would lift up. Typically a load that could lift the rear couldn't be lifted by the FEL and in that sense, the relief would kick in. But, sometimes the rear end pops up after you have a heavy load in the air and a bit further out from the tractor than it would be when you're first lifting off the ground and the bucket is a little closer to the tractor. There's all sorts of posts of people lifting their rear tires when lifting something heavy with the FEL.

I wouldn't recommend adding more weight to the rear axle. The axle could handle it. Lots of people have loaded tires in addition to cast wheels. That would most likely add quite a bit more than you would with wheel weights. But, putting all the weight on the rear axle doesn't help pull some of the FEL weight off the front axle. It simply helps to keep the rear wheels in the ground. What you need is some sort of 3pt ballast. This could be a heavy implement (1500 - 2000lbs). Or, you could get or create some sort of ballast box/weight. I took the second approach. I created a simple concrete ballast box that weighs a little over 2000lbs. It works great. The rear stays on the ground and maintains good traction so I don't have to use 4 wheel drive unless I'm on a good slope.

I posted pics of the box being created here.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/202367-ballast-box-build.html

Several other forum members made similar weights. Some concrete, some metal boxes that could be filled with sand or something else heavy.

 

[bilrus61]

Get yourself a big tiller back there that goes about a thousand pounds. Tillers don't stick out very much and with the leverage they really keep those rears stuck to the ground like glue. Works for me.

 

[gwdixon]

And I don't agree with the thought that the hydraulics would go into relief before the rear end would lift up.

My point is/was that there should be enough weight on the rear of the tractor so that the FEL wouldn't lift more than the rear can hold down.

Even with pallet forks trying to roll a stump too heavy to lift (extended 42" or so) should not lighten the rears to the point of being off of the ground.

I load out heavy logs and stumps with forks that go right up to hydraulic relief so can attest to the value of having enough weight on the rear.

View attachment 276606

 

[TripleR]

I like a lot of weight on the 3PH; safer and more productive in my opinion. I may not have as much as gwdixon, but sure can't fault his logic.

 

[mdelmarcelle]

My point is/was that there should be enough weight on the rear of the tractor so that the FEL wouldn't lift more than the rear can hold down.

Sorry, yeah, I misunderstood. I agree, put enough weight on the rear end so the FEL cannot lift the rear tires.

 

[case245]

i cant put any thing on 3pt most on the time my trailer movers on there to hook chains to drag stuff around i was going to bolt more weights to the cast centers but i didnt know if the rear axle could handle it

 

[Notforhire]

i cant put any thing on 3pt most on the time my trailer movers on there to hook chains to drag stuff around i was going to bolt more weights to the cast centers but i didnt know if the rear axle could handle it

When I built this counter weight, I welded re-bar to the hitch frame, which came off a old bush hog. I also welded in a lifting eye, so I could move the weight around without hooking up to the 3PH.
For your use you could easily add on to the back of the block. When you build your frame just weld on a draw bar, 2" sq receiver, or whatever else would work for you. Weld it all up, build your wood box, and pour your concrete.
Now you can drag what you want without removing the counterweight. (I wish I had thought of this before I built mine.) BTW my counterweight is about 800lbs. I would think for your tractor it would be on the light side. I would go bigger.
As far as adding more wheel weights, the weight is on the wheel-tire and not on the axle, but I would ask your Kubota dealer.
Cement is lots cheeper than factory wheel weights, and in this case I think it would do a better job, and save your front end.

Case245 how did you make out with your cracked loader welds?

Best, Bill

 

[art]

To answer your question, yes you can add three sets of weights to the rear axle and that is by Kubota.