135 drain hole dripping oil, aft of block with cotter pin, help

[JoeBuyer]

Soundguy,

No, I did not.

My First Post said:
"and to PREVENT them from mixing" (referring to the purpose of the weep hole as it relates to engine oil and trans fluid)

My Second Post said:
"Engine oil DOESN'T get into the transmission fluid, it drains out the weep hole. Effectively it (the weep hole) prevents them from contaminating each other, usually engine oil into the transmission. I have not torn mine down, but this is my understanding, no?"

You questioned my first post and you said my second post was "completely wrong". I don't know if were not reading my posts or what, but now you are saying basically the same thing I was saying that they can't mix, which can usually happen on other tractors. So my second post is "completely CORRECT". If I were going to tell someone they were wrong, I would make sure I re-read their posts beforehand.

 

[Soundguy]

the weep hole is not what prevents them from 'mixing' as you say.

a huge cavity that is open to the air and 2 seals prevent them mixing..

and if they both leak into the sump.. they will mix on the way out

your post looks to suggest that there would not be a cavity and instead are sump to sump seals in play.. with the curious use of your verbage about oil cross contamination.



In any event.. no problem.. i'll beleaving this thread, won't be posting back to it or you so as to prevent any further misscommunications.

good luck with any future problems.

have a good day.

 

[MasseyWV]

Here are some pictures to help clear things up. :confused2:

 

[namyessam]

Does the tractor have multi-power? If so, the leakage could be in the multi-power circut. There are seal rings on the PTO and transmission input shaft to seal the oil passages from the multi-power valve to the multi-power clutch. Mine leaked until I replaced them. Run it in low multi-power for a while and check for leakage. If it stops it probobly is these seal rings.

 

[namyessam]

Sorry, after viewing the pictures, I just realized the tractor does not have mult-power. I need to look before I leap.

 

[namyessam]

I'm very new to this forum and quite frankly I'm surprised at all the bickering going on. This kind of behavior is not helping anyone. We're all here to get help and offer help. We need each other. The hourly cost of a shop mechanic far exceeds what some of these tractors are worth and what each of us can afford. Take it from me, if it wasn't for the ability to rebuild my own engine, the tractor would have ended up in the scrap heap. You can read my original post. My multi-power is not working and I plan on checking out the pump and if that isn't it, I will be splitting the tractor again and removing the whole transmission. I just can imagine the shop cost for that. Hopefully things will go well and with a little help from everyone, I can accomplish it myself and save a bundle. So let's all get along. There are many members from many places and we all talk different so have a little understanding when someone may not word something exactly correct.

 

[Mike476]

I'm very new to this forum and quite frankly I'm surprised at all the bickering going on. This kind of behavior is not helping anyone. We're all here to get help and offer help. We need each other. The hourly cost of a shop mechanic far exceeds what some of these tractors are worth and what each of us can afford. Take it from me, if it wasn't for the ability to rebuild my own engine, the tractor would have ended up in the scrap heap. You can read my original post. My multi-power is not working and I plan on checking out the pump and if that isn't it, I will be splitting the tractor again and removing the whole transmission. I just can imagine the shop cost for that. Hopefully things will go well and with a little help from everyone, I can accomplish it myself and save a bundle. So let's all get along. There are many members from many places and we all talk different so have a little understanding when someone may not word something exactly correct.

Here here! :drink:

 

[bones66]

Didn't say what engine was in the tractor but I have a Perkins diesel and before you split the tractor you might check the oil pan gaskets. I had the same leakage and was went down the same road. I talked with my dealer about getting the parts I needed and he just grimaced. His comment .... I wish you had called and talked with me first. These old Massey have cork oil pan gaskets and are prone to leak in the rear after they get old and harden. Thus allowing oil into the cases. He said it usually show up worse (the drips) if you've been working on hilly areas as the oil is more so in the rear of the oil pan and in the area of the problem. Since I had my tractor apart I put some new parts in any way. I got it back together and still had the leak until the oil pan gasket was repaired. I took it to the dealer for that. He tried to tell me some tricks to dropping the oil pan but at this point it was easier to take it to him. Again as I said earlier this was on a Perkins 3 cyl diesel that I had the problems with. Good Luck!

 

[shona13]

G,Day sch2046.
If you look closely there are two holes underneath, the one at the rear ,the one on the "round "part of the gearbox is an indicator to let you know when the transmission input shaft SEALS are leaking, this will be CLEAN OIL . to replace requires special tools to remove and replace the seals it should not cost that much for the two new seals ,if you can get them buy VITON seals ,Viton Is much better wearing and will last a lot longer the bottom seals dont leak ,but the Large brass core plug Welch Plug Top right hand side of the housing does leak if it is showing signs of having been leaking I would remove it and fit a new plug using your favourite gaket sealer.

You have not said if the tractor is Diesel ? Multipower Transmission? It does not really matter just the cost will be different
If the tractor has Multipower Transmission it requires special tools to replace seals and an overdraft to buy the two new parts ,one will be the Multipower input housing and the other will be the PTO input shaft, both will need to be replaced plus new sealing rings and gaskets dont forget the multipower selector valve ,the one that bolts on top of the input housing , you can buy a seal kit for this with all the necessary parts included Dont forget to replace the copper washer under the capscrew .

The engine rear crankshaft seal has the Jiggle pin the pins function as has been mentioned by our learned friend is to keep the hole clear ,If the hole did block up engine oil would build up on the bottom of the clutch housing and the Clutch cover would pick up the oil and contaminate the linings possibly causing the clutch to slip when under severe working conditions.
This oil will be as you have said Black .

To repair this leak requires that the tractor be split the same way as the Transmission ,Between the engine and the gearbox.
When split fit three 1/4 " x 2.1/2 "unc setscrews ,(the ones with thread all the way along ) install them in the clutch cover to hold the assembly in the compressed position, then EVENLY undo the six clutch cover bolts slowly, remove the clutch assembly ,remove the flywheel and (if Diesel) depending on the year of manufacture the tractor will have either the Rope type rear crankshaft seal (Early ) or a large lip seal.

Caution!!! before splitting the tractor install temporary Wooden Wedges between
the front axle housing and the both axles ,this will ensure that the engine and the front half of the tractor are as stable as possible and wont rock and fall of the jack, You will find that it will be easier to do this job with a willing helper ,make sure you keep him handy , so that you have one on each side ,Chok the front wheels and push the rear of the tractor away from the engine, Keep the kids well away the engine is very heavy and you will find that about four to five feet between the two parts gives you plenty of room to work in there ,You will find that there will be more than one friend who really wants to see in there besides, you might need someone to get you a cool drink or two as This is quite often thirsty work .
I do not want to go on about safety Well I Do, But when you have the tractor split put blocks of wood or an axle stand under both parts just to be safe .
Happy Days .
Hutch.

 

[shona13]

G,Day namyessam.
Tell me some more about your tractor and i can give you the test procedure and what you need to test the Multipower.
Happy Days .
Hutch.
P.S. The members are not usually that grumpy ,Maybe a bad day.!!!