Do I need a magnifing lens?

[sixdogs]

The lens protects you from UV at all settings. It is more an issue of eye fatigue and white spots in your vision. Cornea burns are prevented by the glass if you have no leaks in your hood.

Ken

I think the tables show using a 10 or 11 shade for my 1/8" or less wire feed MIG welding so I use that and it is difficult to see. Maybe I should go lighter?
What I have been doing is putting a floodlight offset and behind me to eliminate shadows and that has been working for me. Is this a good idea?

 

[IslandTractor]

I think the tables show using a 10 or 11 shade for my 1/8" or less wire feed MIG welding so I use that and it is difficult to see. Maybe I should go lighter?
What I have been doing is putting a floodlight offset and behind me to eliminate shadows and that has been working for me. Is this a good idea?

I don't know if it is a good idea but I also use a floodlight to enable me to see more of the work piece than just the puddle when welding especially with fluxcore MIG. I use those 500W work lamps on stands. Adds a bit of clutter and heat but otherwise does the job. I've tried smaller LED flashlights (even D cell types) that just aren't quite bright enough or are too focused.

 

[Shield Arc]

What I have been doing is putting a floodlight offset and behind me to eliminate shadows and that has been working for me. Is this a good idea?

What ever it takes! As long as the light from behind doesn't bother you.:thumbsup:

 

[sixdogs]

What ever it takes! As long as the light from behind doesn't bother you.:thumbsup:

I put the lights offset to the side of my shoulder. No shadow and I can see the puddle. I'm not earning a living this way so it works for me.
It really did help my welding considerably.

 

[Shield Arc]

If it works for you, do it! Only other thing I can think of is buy different shade lenses, and even different brands of lenses until you find one you can see with the best. You have to find what works best for you. I know some of the best weldors on this planet, not a one of them can weld without seeing! Well not as long anyway.:laughing:

 

[SpringHollow]

I bought a used Speedglas helmet and they are nice because you can adjust the settings to what works you for that particular job.

Ken

 

[sixdogs]

I bought a used Speedglas helmet and they are nice because you can adjust the settings to what works you for that particular job.

Ken

I have an adjustable helmet as well and really like it. It would seem to me that the old days of fixed shades are for the pros that use one setup every day or could weld--perfectly--in their sleep. A guy I know has Speedglas helmet and sa sit is the best he has ever used.

 

[weldermike]

I rareley use my auto dark, im used to a fixed shade, but in certain cases they can really help you make some tracks. Sun glare issues forced me saturday to go back to my fixed shade. I got a late start and was trying to roll quick. I have a couple auto darks that I have got from jobs, and gifts, but my speedglass is my favorite. Its actually the only one that ever works.

 

[Zork]

Page 13 in this document from HOBART gives a minimum and suggested shade setting. The document says as a general rule of thumb, start with a shade that is too dark to see the weld or cut zone then go lighter so you can see a sufficient amount of the cut or weld zone area without going below/lighter the minimum. Look at page 13.

http://www.hobartwelders.com/pdf/m199776d_eng.pdf

 

[Gary Fowler]

Back when I welded full time and before the advent of auto-dark hoods, my lens selection was a #9 and #10 American Optical gold lens. The 9 was used when outside welding and 10 when inside a building or when arc-gouging at high amperages. We never had to do a lot of gouging so it wasnt necessary to go darker for a 1 hour job or less and 10 gold gave sufficiently dark for protection yet light enough to see what you were doing. I think the HF auto dark I have now is adjustable from 8-12 but I keep it on 10 which even that might be too dark. The best advice is to set it to where you can see the weld puddle and surrounding area. If you cant see the bevel on what you are welding, its too dark. Dont lighten so much that you see spots like when you look into a bright light, but you have to see what you are doing otherwise it strains the eyes and can give you eyestrain headaches. I think that chart is pretty much dead on with minimums and maximums and everyone will have a different level of comfort. Some folks have bat vision and can see in the dark while others like myself need lots of light.