Hydraulic Top Link

Texas Kioti · Sep 2, 2012

MtnViewRanch said:
No, none of the links that I build have the DPOCV. (check valve)

How do they hold the position you place them in without a CV? What keeps the implement from drifting out of position?

MtnViewRanch · Sep 2, 2012

Texas Kioti said:
How do they hold the position you place them in without a CV? What keeps the implement from drifting out of position?

It has been my experience that most of the time if a cylinder used on a Top and Tilt setup drifts enough that it causes a problem, then the control valve or other parts (fittings, hoses) need to be rebuilt or replaced. All that the check valve is really doing is compensating for a worn out or defective control valve & or other parts.

If the DPOCV is such a needed item, then why don't Kubota or John Deere have them on there OEM units? None of the OEM units have them, there must be some reason that they don't. That reason is that it is something that really isn't needed and in fact not even wanted on a side link if the machine has the float function built into the control valve.

There is nothing wrong with having the check valves, and for some instances is probably actually better. But having the check valve can change what options one has when it comes to grading and for some people how they hook up to their 3pt attachments.

Texas Kioti · Sep 2, 2012

Good points, I'll take your word for it. When I told my Dad I was getting a hydraulic top link, he said, "just make sure it it has a CV". Of course he has an old 8N, so maybe he needs one...lol

I placed my order on your website...Thanks for all your help!

texasjohn · Sep 2, 2012

Agree CV not mandatory. I just got a hydraulic cylinder, manufactured appropriate interfaces for 3PH/implement attachment and have used it now for 4 years. Drift not a problem. Excellent improvement to 3PH hookup.

phiferpharm · Sep 2, 2012

MtnViewRanch said:
No, none of the links that I build have the DPOCV. (check valve)

Do any of you guys ever try just twisting the OEM hook 90 degrees and then hook onto the hydraulic port?

I did a mockup with a coat hanger and it was too short to reach either the upper or lower port. I think the thing my son got will do the trick and frankly, I only have it up when changing out implements. I rarely don't have something hanging off the 3 pt.

murphy1244 · Sep 2, 2012

phiferpharm said:
I did a mockup with a coat hanger and it was too short to reach either the upper or lower port. I think the thing my son got will do the trick and frankly, I only have it up when changing out implements. I rarely don't have something hanging off the 3 pt.

I tried grabbing the hook and bending it and the whole tractor turned with it. Brian you really need to come up with a universial mount.

MtnViewRanch · Sep 2, 2012

murphy1244 said:
I tried grabbing the hook and bending it and the whole tractor turned with it. Brian you really need to come up with a universial mount.

Yes, I should come up with something, it would take care of that nagging problem of (now what do I do with this thing) when it's not hooked up to an implement. Maybe I will look at that problem next year at the same time that I measure for the FEL diverter kits that I am going to have in the future.

Steave · Sep 2, 2012

Been trying to learn something about these Top Links so thanks for the thread. I have to ask the dumb question, but how do you move the Top Link in and out for the initial hook up to an implement? If you have to climb back and forth from the tractor to move the Link in and out, WOW! Surely I'm missing something. On my little Ford that wouldn't be an issue but on my cousin's M9540 Kubota would be a lot of climbing.

94BULLITT · Sep 2, 2012

Steave said:
Been trying to learn something about these Top Links so thanks for the thread. I have to ask the dumb question, but how do you move the Top Link in and out for the initial hook up to an implement? If you have to climb back and forth from the tractor to move the Link in and out, WOW! Surely I'm missing something. On my little Ford that wouldn't be an issue but on my cousin's M9540 Kubota would be a lot of climbing.

I open the back window on my L4240 and I can reach the levers on my remotes. On a larger tractor where you can not reach the levers on the remotes once you have the lift arms hooked up you could shut the tractor off and push the remote valve forward and backward a few times to take the pressure off then you could move the link by hand.

MtnViewRanch · Sep 2, 2012

Steave said:
Been trying to learn something about these Top Links so thanks for the thread. I have to ask the dumb question, but how do you move the Top Link in and out for the initial hook up to an implement? If you have to climb back and forth from the tractor to move the Link in and out, WOW! Surely I'm missing something. On my little Ford that wouldn't be an issue but on my cousin's M9540 Kubota would be a lot of climbing.

Most 3pt attachment points are pretty close to the same. So when you change from one implement to another there are a lot of times when no adjustment has to be made at all when hooking up and other times maybe the link just needs to be moved a little one way or another one time. This one reason that some guys like to have the float position on the controls, so that the rod can be manually put where it is needed to be attached.
Sort of the same thing applies to the lower linkage, you sort of have to get it in the right place also. Especially with a bigger tractor, you don't just throw those implements around. After you do it a few times you get use to it.