kiotiken
Veteran Member
Buddy, you have a beautiful wife and kids. Your wife can't work on tractors but would you really want her too?. Lol
Thanks buddy, truth is, I wouldn't trade them for all the oil changes in the world.
Buddy, you have a beautiful wife and kids. Your wife can't work on tractors but would you really want her too?. Lol
Right on James. Get a multimeter and find the real problem vs just swapping parts at random.
This sounds so much like my BIL's Dodge truck <snip>
Buddy, you have a beautiful wife and kids. Your wife can't work on tractors but would you really want her too?. Lol
Thanks buddy, truth is, I wouldn't trade them for all the oil changes in the world.
Alright if you want to know if it is the battery or not get a volt meter and put the leads right on the top of the posts. NOT the cable connections but right on the posts, have someone else start or try to start the tractor.. If the battery voltage falls below about 11 volts then it is likely the battery. It could be a "draggy" starter, but this is fairly rare. a simple inductive ammeter, you can get at the autoparts store will tell you if the starter is drawing an excessive amount of current. You just hold it up against the positive wire to measure the current draw inductively. If there is a high resistance internal to the battery, the voltage will drop like a rock and the starter will not spin. If the battery voltage stays up around 12 or more volts, then it is something else. Many no start issues are bad cables, caused by internal corrosion inside the plastic sheath. You can not always see it, but you can test for voltage drop across it or you can yank heck out of the cable and see if it falls apart. Inside will often be a green/white powder instead of clean copper wire. Of course we have just covered the most likely issues, not every issue.
James K0UA
Right on James. Get a multimeter and find the real problem vs just swapping parts at random.
I agree; a no-start can be extremely difficult to diagnose. Battery, cables/connections, starter itself, relay(solenoid), safety switches, ignition switch, wire harness, plus the fly-in-the-ointment, "decompression knob" malfunction.While the decompression feature is likely not related to the engine not turning over, and may be nothing more than a disconnected/broken cable, I wouldn't run the engine, if I could get it started, with this feature in the open position.