Do you lower the rpms before engaging the PTO??

[Mystro]

My dealer recommends lowering the rpms beore engaging the PTO for the mowing deck then raising the rpms back up once engaged?? I haven't read this in the manual. Anyone else do this??

 

[rekees4300]

Anyone else do this??

Yes, less stress on PTO and attachments.

 

[MHarryE]

Yes, good practice for most if not all PTO implements although at least one of my implements will kill the engine if started idled all the way down.

 

[RDSEILE]

Yes you should lower the rpms before engaging the pro. It is not good for the gears in the tractor, you will know very quickly when you have done it wrong cause it will make a big bang.

 

[Ace3]

Yes. I always engage the PTO at idle and then increase the RPM to operating speed. I also lower the RPM to idle before I disengage the PTO.

 

[k0ua]

Absolutely. Far better on all parts concerned to lower the RPM's as low as you can without bogging down the engine when you engage the PTO. Then spin it up to 540 speed.

James K0UA

 

[Gale Hawkins]

With the bushhog running I like to also idle down BEFORE disengaging the PTO too. The weight of the heavy blades on a 7' bushhog can keep turning long after I shut off the tractor if disenaged at 540 RPM.

 

[CBW1999]

I see that this is a good thing to do and probably will start following this principle. The only issue I have is that with a geared tractor, using a mmm and having to change direction will be a BIG learning curve remembering to lower the rpm. I usually let out the clutch slowly to engage slower (although I have had the "bang" when I pop the clutch.

To some extent it doesn't seem practical to lower rpm all the way. Any thoughts on lowering it by "half"? will that make any difference?

Or, am I totally off my rocker and this really only applies to Hydrostatic?

 

[RoyJackson]

I see that this is a good thing to do and probably will start following this principle. The only issue I have is that with a geared tractor, using a mmm and having to change direction will be a BIG learning curve remembering to lower the rpm. I usually let out the clutch slowly to engage slower (although I have had the "bang" when I pop the clutch.

To some extent it doesn't seem practical to lower rpm all the way. Any thoughts on lowering it by "half"? will that make any difference?

Or, am I totally off my rocker and this really only applies to Hydrostatic?

Why would you have to disengage the PTO for shifting into reverse?

 

[RoyJackson]

I always lower the RPM to engage the PTO...easier on all of the components from the tractor to the implement gearbox. Although I idle the tractor at 1500 RPM, I lower the RPM to 900-1000 RPM for engaging (and disengaging!!!) the PTO.
If I'm using an implement that might stall the tractor (such as a rotary cutter), I just keep my foot near the throttle to give it more fuel, if it starts to stall.

 

[CBW1999]

Why would you have to disengage the PTO for shifting into reverse?

Roy- I have a B7510 (Kubota) Clutch to shift also disengages the pto.

 

[RoyJackson]

Roy- I have a B7510 (Kubota) Clutch to shift also disengages the pto.

You have a single stage clutch? Or, a 2-stage clutch?

Even with a single stage, non-synchro transmission (which I had on my old Deere 670), I just used the clutch as I would in a car and shifted into reverse, then let up smoothly...no problems with the mower (in my case, a rear finishing mower). There's enough inertia in the mower to keep the blades at a fairly high RPM during that momentary disengagement when shifting.
However, I'd wager your B7510 has a dual stage clutch...halfway down disengages the transmission for shifting gears, all the way down disengages the PTO. This is what my old 790 had, BTW.

 

[94BULLITT]

The owners manual for the BX says to engage at half throttle. I usually kick it in at 1700-1800rpms.

 

[CBW1999]

I was lead to believe it was single stage being told "clutch all the way" for everything. Its been years since I looked in the manual and can't remember otherwise.
If I change direction smooth and quick, the deck doesn't slow down too much and the transition is fairly smooth. If I have to maneuver around a bit and the deck speed drops then- I should probably lower rpms at that time.

I have had the tractor almost 7 years and have known for a while that I have to adjust the clutch pedal play. I'm wondering if I get that back to spec- if I might find out it has 2 stages. Hmm- probably a good project for tomorrow.

 

[Bob77064]

Yes, I always lower the rpms before engaging or disengaging the pto.

 

[Mudfarmer]

Just to make the point. When I am using my light weight rotary mower on my JD 3005, engaging at high RPM puts enough torque on the shaft to consistently break the shear pin. That doesn't happen starting slow and throttleing up. Extrapolate that to other equipment.
Mf

 

[Deano]

I go to idle first, then engage. Just makes sense.

 

[phiferpharm]

I see that this is a good thing to do and probably will start following this principle. The only issue I have is that with a geared tractor, using a mmm and having to change direction will be a BIG learning curve remembering to lower the rpm. I usually let out the clutch slowly to engage slower (although I have had the "bang" when I pop the clutch.

To some extent it doesn't seem practical to lower rpm all the way. Any thoughts on lowering it by "half"? will that make any difference?

Or, am I totally off my rocker and this really only applies to Hydrostatic?

On my former tractor which had a two stage clutch, I would run the engine to speed, and just feather the clutch out. I would average a shear bolt almost every time I used the tractor. On my Kioti HST, I put the engne at idle, engage the PTO, and slowly take the rpm up. I've used two shear bolts in about 60 hours of using my Bush Hog.

 

[radioman]

I do lower my rpm's much less then rated engine pto speed before engaging.

 

[Chilly807]

The first question: Yes, it's good operating practice to slow the rpm before engaging the PTO.

The second question: My gear drive L3400 has a 2 stage clutch, which I really didn't use at all the first year, not the way it was meant to be used anyway. Then I tried using it to disengage the drive while still running the PTO while turning around. I always was taught that if you used the clutch, it was either "in" or "out" and nothing in between.

There's enough space between the 2 clutches that there's no real danger of "riding" the clutch and wearing it out prematurely. Using the second stage as it was meant to be used means a lot less leg fatigue and smoother operation. The engine comes to idle and keeps the mower turning while you turn around, then ramps up again as you accelerate away.

Sean