Hill problems

   / Hill problems #21  
Rear mower counterweight. Hill no more than about 22 degrees.
larry

According to the plat it is about 22 degrees. I'm using a 7 foot finish mower which actually serves to push the tractor down hill. I never thought of using the 4wd for braking, but it's a good idea, I think.
 
   / Hill problems #22  
Rear mower counterweight. Hill no more than about 22 degrees.
larry

By my reckoning, a mower on the ground is not (not) a rear counterweight...as I said, above. But I agree that the hill is just not steep enough ...or, grass wet enough.
 
   / Hill problems
  • Thread Starter
#23  
I am pleased with the work at my current dealer. I brought the tractor in on Tues at 200PM. He said they were quite busy with equipment for upcoming harvest and the Farm Science Review. I told them I understood and there was no hurry.
Today, less than 24 hours later, they called today to say it was done. They did a number of things for me including adding a fan, cleaning/blowing out dirt from the radiator, condenser, evaporator etc. Also they fixed the 4 wd issue that turned out to be front drive shaft coupler snap ring not being installed that allowed the coupler to back off. All done for less than $200. Much better all around than the last dealership I was at recently.
 
   / Hill problems #24  
According to the plat it is about 22 degrees. I'm using a 7 foot finish mower which actually serves to push the tractor down hill. I never thought of using the 4wd for braking, but it's a good idea, I think.

Having had at least one hairy moment where the rear end got light and the tractor started to slide a little bit, I always use 4wd when I'm going down even relatively small hills. It's just not worth it to lose braking.
 
   / Hill problems #25  
I agree with a couple others that your 4wd isn't working. Going downhill, you'll only have 2wd brakes. I've had this happen when I sometimes forget to put mine in 4wd. The rears just skid. Going uphill, one will maybe spin. Putting diff lock on engages both and allows it to go uphill. Never had this happen, as I almost always have to go downhill anywhere first and will notice it not being in 4wd on the way down. In hill country, my rule is ALWAYS to be in 4wd. I only disengage it if I'm going down my long paved driveway all the way.
 
   / Hill problems
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I ususally keep it in 4wd at all times but was concerned somewhat that it might cause undue stress or wear on parts. It certainly causes stress however if you are not in 4wd going down my hills but it is more the mental kind then.
 
   / Hill problems #27  
I ususally keep it in 4wd at all times but was concerned somewhat that it might cause undue stress or wear on parts. It certainly causes stress however if you are not in 4wd going down my hills but it is more the mental kind then.

Ha ha ha. Just wait until you lose control going downhill and crash into something! Then it'll be more than mental stress!

I used to do the same, but now I just leave it in 4wd pretty much all the time. Shifting in and out is kind of a hassle. If my tractor is properly ballasted, then I almost always don't need it, but the one time I forget that I don't have my ballast on the back, or the one time I do need it and I start to slide, it's just not worth it. The only time I take it out of 4wd is when I'm doing moderate to aggressive loader work, since that can over-stress the front axle drivetrain. I would use 2wd if I was doing ground-engaging work on level ground, like plowing or whatever, but frankly, I need the extra traction of the front end to get that stuff done anyway. My tires aren't loaded, so once the implement hits the ground, I have zero ballast.
 
   / Hill problems #28  
I am pleased with the work at my current dealer. I brought the tractor in on Tues at 200PM. He said they were quite busy with equipment for upcoming harvest and the Farm Science Review. I told them I understood and there was no hurry.
Today, less than 24 hours later, they called today to say it was done. They did a number of things for me including adding a fan, cleaning/blowing out dirt from the radiator, condenser, evaporator etc. Also they fixed the 4 wd issue that turned out to be front drive shaft coupler snap ring not being installed that allowed the coupler to back off. All done for less than $200. Much better all around than the last dealership I was at recently.
I had a feeling that the 4wd wasn't operational. Glad to hear you found a good repair shop, that fixed you up at a reasonable price.

joshuabardwell has some good advice, it would be best to think about his comments.
 

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