GC2600 How Use Box Blade w/o Lift Height Control?

[mrbeanley]

I am, admittedly, a newbie to my Massey-Ferguson GC2600, and to tractor usage in general. That being said, I need a little help here:

I just bought a 5' Box Scraper (from Tractor Supply - which is probably an entirely different post topic, but I digress). I was trying it out in the yard, and I cannot figure out how to set the scraper so that it doesn't try to bite off to much, when I have the ripper shanks lowered in their top-most hole. I've got the top link on the 3 pt set relatively far forward, because I don't really want to pick up anything - I'm just trying to brake up the ground at this point.

If I put the shanks down any lower, the problem gets worse. Drop the box using the single-lever on the GC2600, and the whole shebang comes to a relatively abrupt stop - because the teeth seem to bite in too deep. When I try to nudge the box up a tad, using the 3-pt lift control, the tractor makes a horrible grinding noise (that is, when I try to just pull back on the lift a tiny bit.) If I pull the lever back further, the box pops pretty much all the way back up. And its pretty tough to adjust it properly on the way down - although I do have it set to drop pretty slowly.

I guess the crux of my question is, without the benefit of a three point hitch height control that my tractor doesn't have, what's the best or right way to adjust this thing so that I don't have to arm wrestle with it every time I turn around and have to pick the box up?

Thanks for following my ramble, folks.

Rick M
Glenville, NY

 

[ray66v]

I have limited experience with using my box blade, but I will attempt to offer some help.

If the teeth are biting too deep, have you tried using the box with them retracted?

The angle the box bites on, is set by the turnbuckle on the to link, that should adjust the level of aggressiveness. You should be able to set it so it barely bites and then, adjust it for the amount of drag your tractor can handle.

Does that help?

 

[mrbeanley]

I have limited experience with using my box blade, but I will attempt to offer some help.

If the teeth are biting too deep, have you tried using the box with them retracted?

The angle the box bites on, is set by the turnbuckle on the to link, that should adjust the level of aggressiveness. You should be able to set it so it barely bites and then, adjust it for the amount of drag your tractor can handle.

Does that help?

That does make sense, yes, thsnk you. I guess I am not sure how to adjust it to be lesd aggressive. I am wondering if maybe a five-foot, 440 pound box is just too much...

 

[ray66v]

Perhaps it's too much, but that depends on the soil conditions, which tires you have, terrain, etc. I used a 4 foot box.

Just look at the angle adjusting the top link gives you, and imagine how it will effect the bite. With some trial and error, you should be able to find the right settings to be able to make use of it.

 

[The kid]

I am, admittedly, a newbie to my Massey-Ferguson GC2600, and to tractor usage in general. That being said, I need a little help here:

I just bought a 5' Box Scraper (from Tractor Supply - which is probably an entirely different post topic, but I digress). I was trying it out in the yard, and I cannot figure out how to set the scraper so that it doesn't try to bite off to much, when I have the ripper shanks lowered in their top-most hole. I've got the top link on the 3 pt set relatively far forward, because I don't really want to pick up anything - I'm just trying to brake up the ground at this point.

If I put the shanks down any lower, the problem gets worse. Drop the box using the single-lever on the GC2600, and the whole shebang comes to a relatively abrupt stop - because the teeth seem to bite in too deep. When I try to nudge the box up a tad, using the 3-pt lift control, the tractor makes a horrible grinding noise (that is, when I try to just pull back on the lift a tiny bit.) If I pull the lever back further, the box pops pretty much all the way back up. And its pretty tough to adjust it properly on the way down - although I do have it set to drop pretty slowly.

I guess the crux of my question is, without the benefit of a three point hitch height control that my tractor doesn't have, what's the best or right way to adjust this thing so that I don't have to arm wrestle with it every time I turn around and have to pick the box up?

Thanks for following my ramble, folks.

Rick M
Glenville, NY

Are you trying to use a five foot box scraper on a three point attachment but does't lift? Your going to fill the box up till it boggs your tractor down if you don't have a way of lifting it. The box blade is made to move amounts of debrise or dig earth using teeth to losen the ground so the box can catch it. If you gather it up but can't deposit it by lifting, unless your filling a hole, your wasting your time.

Both box and blade are made to gradually lift so as to taper the grade. The center adjustment on a three point hitch is changing how deep you want to the box to cut and will fill the box faster or less depending on adjustment. They are great moving loose dirt or gravel filling in ruts in driveways.

Looking at one of these mini tractors using a five foot box, I would think would be handful. It does appear from an online picture I pulled down to have a three point hydraulic lift. You mentioned a four foot box. I'd go with that.

View attachment 281917

 

[topbuilder]

I might add, when you are using the teeth work in straight lines. When you have to turn, lift the teeth out of the ground. The rest of the problem is all in the adjustment of the angle on the top link. Adjust to the point where you are making a gradual cut going forward but still able to push while backing up. This is where hydraulic tilt is so nice.

 

[joshuabardwell]

To take a less aggressive bite, lengthen the to link and remove the rippers or put them in upside down so they are out of the way. Drop the box on a smooth surface and observe how the front blade's relationship to the ground changes as you lengthen and shorten the top link. At extreme length, the box will be riding on the rear blade and the front blade will be an inch or three off the ground. This is the least aggressive setting. It basically just cuts off hills.

But if you don't have precise position control, you are just going to make a mess. You need to be able to just barely lift the box to spread the material.

 

[DMW]

Are you trying to remove sod or packed earth/gravel? Yard is kind of ambiguous.

 

[radioman]

First off -- What does your manual say about max recommended width of box blade for your 4 ft wide tractor? I think 48 is max. second, if you are trying to use boxblade on grass, that is alot of tugging surface unless you already tilled it. Third, have you adjusted your toplink shorter/longer to get less biting action yet? Ffourth, are you tires loaded or have wheel weights? are you in high gear or low?

 

[mrbeanley]

Thank you, everyone, for your replies! One of the great things about TractorByNet is that you folks take the time to answer questions, no matter how stupid, silly or basic, and don't make the "asker" feel like an idiot!! So, thanks for that.

I understood the basic operation of a box blade, and how the top link is used to adjust it. The nuance that you folks added was the bit about lengthening it enough to have it rest on the trailing blade instead of the leading blade. So I am going to go park the tractor/box assembly on the nice, flat, level garage floor (sorry, Mr.s Beanley, but your car is being evicted temporarily!!) and see just how far out I need to let it go to get it set that way. And then I will experiment. I'll be sure to post back and let y'all know how it goes.

In answer to some of the other questions that folks have asked in their replies:

1) I'm using a Massey Ferguson GC2600 SCUT. 25hp, with a three-point hitch with a single-lever hydraulic lift system (so I can lift it and lower it, but don't have a draft control or any sort of fine control over how high or low the attachment rides - its all by eyeball).

2) I'm tearing out a basically dead lawn here in Upstate New York. Shale-littered clay, somewhat wet at the moment due to recent rains - so its heavy. The "sod" is so shallowly rooted that the box was tearing it up reasonably well even being mal-adjusted. So I'm hopeful that getting it right will make things better.

The over all plan is to tear out the sod and what little top soil there is, cart if off to the side for later use, and then break up the clay/shale as best as possible with the shanks. Then while I am at it, I'm going to attempt to re-grade the yard so that it slopes away from the house. I'll then get some peat moss, spread it around with the box, and then I am going to rent a 3-pt tiller to mix it all up nice before planting new grass.

Well, that is the PLAN anyway!!

Rick M
Glenville NY