Ok, I haven't used the tractor for 6 weeks. Last job was tilling and parked in garage. Tried to start today. Turn key only hear click sound comming from the right side area. Starter is on left. Lights bright, pre heater coil working, charged battery and cleaned terminals, no change. Starter will not even grunt or try to turn, nothing there. I will jump the clutch safty switch tomorrow and test voltages to several places. I need to know what to test and trouble shoot. What can cause no action on starter? Is there a fuse to look for? Maybe a safety switch. Any help will be appriciated. I have a good voltage meter to use. Can anyone give me some hints of what to check? Could the new starter be fau;ty? Or maybe the solanoid? Ray :confused2:
Ford 1700 not turning starter, battery good, new starter 1 year ago. Clicks only, su
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Hey Ray,
Why not put the tractor in neutral, wheels chocked, take a lead from battery positive and try to directly jump the starter. You'll be by passing safety and any electrical bad connection assuming you have a good ground. Similarly, if you have an emergency battery, then why not do what I suggested above but directly put the negative lead on starter ground(body) and positive on solenoid. if starter is bad you know right away. if starter is good then I'd be staring looking where you lose juice to the starter.
We can go from there to start diagnosis.
JC
Soundguy
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anything yet?
/ Ford 1700 not turning starter, battery good, new starter 1 year ago. Clicks only, su
#4
It is to dark to do any checking tonight. No lights in the shed. I did get to thinking about some possibilities of what might cause this.
Here is a question, if the power take-off was ingaged would it prevent the starter from engaging? I don't know if it is engaged or not. I will check after daylight tomorrow.
/ Ford 1700 not turning starter, battery good, new starter 1 year ago. Clicks only, su
#5
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Yes Ray, I'm live and kicking
and chime in once in a while. You're pto is transmission driven and totally mechanical and no safeties to speak of, so it has no effect on the starting circuit. All you have is a neutral safety switch so you have to clutch all the way to activate a normally open switch to close and completer the starting circuit. You do not have pto safety switch. Try my suggestion tomorrow as it is the easiest way without taking anything off and allows you for a quick test. Report back tomorrow and we'll try to help however we can.JC,
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
yep.. jumping everything out will be telling.. then if it does start.. just start backtracking 1 step at a time.
/ Ford 1700 not turning starter, battery good, new starter 1 year ago. Clicks only, su
#8
I am not sure where to hook the jumper on the starter. Positive from the battery is bolted to the center of the solenoid direct from the battery. From the solenoid into the starter case there is a flat braided copper wire which is insulated from the case. The battery is still in the tractor. I have a set of jumper cables. How should I hook it up. I don't want to short the starter out if it is good.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
short out the starter?
the starter basically has 1 connection.. it's insulated and is the lug connected to the solenoid. the other connection is chassis ground.. and is achieved witht he starter housing bolted to the bellhousing.
that menas you got 1 wire to think about. no magic involved.. .. battery hot and insulated stud on starter need to have a date night....
remember.. tractor in neutral, range shifter, if any, out of gear... clutch blocked down... BE SAFE
the starter basically has 1 connection.. it's insulated and is the lug connected to the solenoid. the other connection is chassis ground.. and is achieved witht he starter housing bolted to the bellhousing.
that menas you got 1 wire to think about. no magic involved.. .. battery hot and insulated stud on starter need to have a date night....
remember.. tractor in neutral, range shifter, if any, out of gear... clutch blocked down... BE SAFE
/ Ford 1700 not turning starter, battery good, new starter 1 year ago. Clicks only, su
#10
Soundguy, thanks, but I am still not sure what. The battery already has the pos cable attached to the solenoid. To bypass the other electrical system (the ign and clutch safety) and jump the starter to see if it's going to turn over the engine I am thinking the jumper needs to be connected to some other place, otherwise I am not changing the 12 volt at the starter and not bypassing anything.
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Ray,
Look at the pics below, red is directly coming from the battery. if you have a meter you can check the voltage there to the ground and you have to have battery voltage. The smaller white wire is your solenoid start circuit. If you short that then it will pull the solenoid, meshes the starter gear with flywheel and make a an internal contact so the starter would turn. You can also short out between the big two studs/lugs and that would bypass the solenoid but will turn the starter without meshing the starter gear with the flywheel. It is kind of scary as a bit of spark might fly but screwdriver can be used to short out the post as Soundguy suggested. Make sure to stay safe. You don't want to be pinned there and have tractor run away from you.
JC,
/ Ford 1700 not turning starter, battery good, new starter 1 year ago. Clicks only, su
#12
I guess I am getting out of mechanical shape. I haven't worked on anything lately. Let me review here. If I put a screwdriver between the 2 big lugs in the bottom picture it will turn the starter without engaging the flywheel. Or I can attach my 12 volt jumper from the battery to the top smaller lug that the white wire is attached to and the starter will engage the flywheel and turn over the engine (if) the starter is still in operating condition? Did I miss anything? This will bypass the clutch safety too, is that correct?
I have the tractor blocked and both shifters in netural so it won't run over me.
I have the tractor blocked and both shifters in netural so it won't run over me.
/ Ford 1700 not turning starter, battery good, new starter 1 year ago. Clicks only, su
#13
JC, you ain't going to believe this. I looked at your pictures, went back out to my tractor to compare. My smaller lug was on the back side. I had to move the wire to be able to access it because of the position. It was held to the solenoid by a phillips screw instead of a nut like yours. When I moved the wire I found out it was somewhat loose. I thightened it up with a phillips screwdriver, got back up on the tractor seat and low and behold the tractor fired right up. It ran like it had never had a problem. CONCLUSION: I would never in a hundred years found this problem without help. This saved me a trip to the tractor repair shop and lots of money, that I an sure of.
JC, you saved my bacon. You can credit yourself with guiding another inexperianced mechanic to a complete repair. My thanks go out to you and to the others that posted here. (Soundguy) Thanks Ray
JC, you saved my bacon. You can credit yourself with guiding another inexperianced mechanic to a complete repair. My thanks go out to you and to the others that posted here. (Soundguy) Thanks Ray
/ Ford 1700 not turning starter, battery good, new starter 1 year ago. Clicks only, su
#14
JC-jetro
Elite Member
That's great Ray,:thumbsup:
Your answer to the previous post was yes. I'm glad you figured it out without needing to go further in to it. like anything else you really need to break it down to small chunks to bite. I was fairly confident we could have gotten to he bottom eventually.
Happy it worked,
JC
