check oil flow idea, good? dad?

[Ken]

Ran the oil flow test and all is good. Nice solid flow. Should get the head gasket tommorrow. I'll retorque the rod caps and put the pan back on while I'm waiting. There was no thermostat in the head when I took the thing apart. Contiplating putting one in. I't not that cold here in the winter but I live at nearly 3000 ft. We get alot of days in the 30's and 40's, I probably should. Any input on that?

I'm trusting you replaced the failed bearing with new bearing and used plastic guage to check for correct size. also checked for no problems with the crank journal in sizing. Is this the first time rebuilding this engine. some one prior could of had crank redone so small in measurment. check the removed bearing and purchase the same measurment.
Thermostat removed. or maybe not originally installed did the engine run cool or normal in temp. thermostat reduced water flow until reached correct temp then opens the flow. if ran good without may not need .
Maybe good time to ask what size or brand of engine. tractor lawn mower truck. stationary type ?
ken

 

[claypidgeon]

Ken..
The tractor is an early 80's Satoh Bull. the engine is a Mitsubishi KE130. Two cylinder deisel. AS to how the engine ran, I cann't tell you because it has never ran long enough for me to find out. I have been learning along the way about all the problems this rig has. The bearings were worn paper thin and the crank jurnal was scared. There was no way to plastic gauge them. Because of this I had to order bearings a size over and polish the crank the best I could and install them to check for play. I know this will not last forever but I might get some time to find anouther motor or save up the money to rebuild this motor from the cank up. I guess maybe it might be benaficial to not install a thermostat to keep the engine as cool as posible to maybe get my patch job to last a little longer. As to weather I have rebuilt an engine befor, not a deisel. However I have worked on lots of other engins from small utility motors up to V8's. All at home and flying by the seat of my britches. Most of the time I can figure things out but always apriciate any input I run across. I'm never afraid to ask questions and read manuals most of the time.

 

[Ken]

Ken..
The tractor is an early 80's Satoh Bull. the engine is a Mitsubishi KE130. Two cylinder deisel. AS to how the engine ran, I cann't tell you because it has never ran long enough for me to find out. I have been learning along the way about all the problems this rig has. The bearings were worn paper thin and the crank jurnal was scared. There was no way to plastic gauge them. Because of this I had to order bearings a size over and polish the crank the best I could and install them to check for play. I know this will not last forever but I might get some time to find anouther motor or save up the money to rebuild this motor from the cank up. I guess maybe it might be benaficial to not install a thermostat to keep the engine as cool as posible to maybe get my patch job to last a little longer. As to weather I have rebuilt an engine befor, not a deisel. However I have worked on lots of other engins from small utility motors up to V8's. All at home and flying by the seat of my britches. Most of the time I can figure things out but always apriciate any input I run across. I'm never afraid to ask questions and read manuals most of the time.

Maybe remove the crank shaft take to reliable location and have it redone then new bearing sized to the rebuilt crank. It can be done your self but the time required could be used else where. There is tools designed to self clean up the bearing shaft it has been years since seen it done.
Bearing worn thin so all bearings need to be replaced anyway.
ken

 

[claypidgeon]

Ken
you are probably right about the motor needing all bearing replaced. I will most likely get to that next year when I split the tractor to replace the clutch. The clutch still works but is adjusted all the way out. Iv'e never heard of a self cleaning bearing shaft tool. I suspect there is away of hand turning just about anything. There are places in the world were the nearest machine shop is over a thousand miles away.

 

[Ken]

Ken
you are probably right about the motor needing all bearing replaced. I will most likely get to that next year when I split the tractor to replace the clutch. The clutch still works but is adjusted all the way out. Iv'e never heard of a self cleaning bearing shaft tool. I suspect there is away of hand turning just about anything. There are places in the world were the nearest machine shop is over a thousand miles away.

I haven't seen the use since mid '60 but still have one made for a Model 'B' John Deer engine.
It consists of a board about 18" made of oak maple or some straight grain and strong. 1"X3" Then sawed straight in middle and a good hinge put on one end. (mine has a bolt ) Also a hole is drilled about 2 inches from the hinge or bolt end the little less than the size of the crank.
use fine wet /dry sand paper put in one side and put over the shaft. slowly move the board back and forth as the shaft is turned also to smooth the shaft. The other end of board has a adjustment bolt so could not over sand one area.
Using a tool to check for sizing and it will take several hours can re-do the shaft.
When satisfied you will need to develop a bearing to properly fit carefully file or sand paper the ends until the bearing is almost to tight. or purchase bearings undersized usually .002 then using known thickness shim material can get the bearing to fit properly. Thickness gage material is great stuff if used properly.
Know there is several will disagree but you stated not wanting to have done at machine shop. and burned bearing in existing engine.
Be clean careful and practice on some shaft type material to get experance.
The older flywheel type engines had babbitted bearings and a reamnig tool to get sizing of rod but the shaft still had to be correct .
Trust I explained this good enough if not ask again.
ken

f

 

[claypidgeon]

Thanks Ken..
Very interesting. Probably more affective then my strips of emory cloth. My engine is mostly back together, just a few topside stuff to get to. I need to find a bowl for the fuel filter. Seems my plastic bowl shrunk. Had to file the inside lip to get the filter to fit. Works but not great, seeps alittle deisel. Not becuse of my filing but becuse of the shrinkage, The O ring dosn't seat as good as it should. At least deisel is not as flamable as gas. Untill I get this fixed I may have to blead lines after she sits for awhile. I will let you know how it all turns out sometime this week she should be done. I know it will run for awhile. We will see.