Oil & Fuel 2615 wont start HELP PLEASE!!

   / 2615 wont start HELP PLEASE!! #1  

crzybowhntr

New member
Joined
Mar 4, 2011
Messages
19
Tractor
Kubota M6040
My Massey 2615 with270 hours will not start.
I had noticed a major loss of power so I pulled off the fuel filters and then put the old ones back on as I could not locate new ones on Saturday afternoon. I could not even get it up to 540 pro rpm range in either nutreal or while driving. Every once in a while it would get power, but i was either going down hill or right when tractor sterted. I then cranked tractor and it started, bug soon died. I can not get it to start now.
I know there is a primer thing by filters but unsure of exactly how to use it.
Air filter is clean.

PLEASE HELP. Would like to know the following:
- is there a strainer in the tank - if so how do I get it cleaned
- how do I bleed the fuel system
- do local auto zones, advance auto, etc carry these fuel filters
- ANYTHING else I need to know regarding this situation
 
   / 2615 wont start HELP PLEASE!! #2  
Do you have a owners manual?
 
   / 2615 wont start HELP PLEASE!! #3  
Any smoke such as white, that could be water in the fuel?
 
   / 2615 wont start HELP PLEASE!!
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Had one. Got lost after car wreck when insurance company took car.
 
   / 2615 wont start HELP PLEASE!!
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Didn't seem like there was water. No smoke. Ran semi OK yesterday while brush hogging.
 
   / 2615 wont start HELP PLEASE!! #6  
   / 2615 wont start HELP PLEASE!! #7  
Get a new one and don't put it in your car.
And purchase fuel filters, ain't no good the way it is.

Might want to get an algaecide while you are at it , if you suspect algae growth at all in the fuel.(black or grayish slime on filter could be algae)
 
   / 2615 wont start HELP PLEASE!! #8  
My Massey 2615 with270 hours will not start.
I had noticed a major loss of power so I pulled off the fuel filters and then put the old ones back on as I could not locate new ones on Saturday afternoon. I could not even get it up to 540 pro rpm range in either nutreal or while driving. Every once in a while it would get power, but i was either going down hill or right when tractor sterted. I then cranked tractor and it started, bug soon died. I can not get it to start now.
I know there is a primer thing by filters but unsure of exactly how to use it.
Air filter is clean.

PLEASE HELP. Would like to know the following:
- is there a strainer in the tank - if so how do I get it cleaned
- how do I bleed the fuel system
- do local auto zones, advance auto, etc carry these fuel filters
- ANYTHING else I need to know regarding this situation

Most diesel fuel tanks have a strainer at the outlet. Remove the hose at the shutoff, open the valve fullly. If no fuel comes out, blow compressed air in the valve toward the tank or use a wire to see if you can get it unclogged and drain it.Remove the shut of valve if it's in the tank. The strainer is most likely on the shut off valve. Clean the strainer and then look in the tank to see if it's got a lot of crap and corruption in it. Then flush that out. The stuff you find in the tank bottom is generally caused by water that has condensed inthe tank. Try to keep your fuel tank full to minimize this and you might consider treating the fuel with a biocide to preven t bacteria for living in the tank if you live in a humid climate or use some additive that will help your water separator to precipitate out the water and drain the separator regularly.

Try NAPA for the filters. Auto supply stores don't generally carry the parts but can get them.

Here's a general method for bleeding a diesel fuel system.

Bleeding a Diesel Fuel System

Start at the fuel outlet of the tank (inlet to the filter). Shut the tank valve, remove the line at the filter inlet and holding a suitable container to catch the diesel fuel, open the valve. You should have a CONTINUOUS rush/flow of fuel out of the line. If it dribbles or is intermittent, check the fuel cap for a blockage of the fuel vent or the strainer upstream of the valve for clogging. The strainer/screen is attached to the shut-off valve, and is positioned up inside the tank. You will have to drain the tank and pull the valve to clean the screen.
If you have good fuel flow at that point, reconnect the line and open the bleeder screw at the top of the filter. Turn on the tank valve and wait till you have a steady flow of fuel with no bubbles at the top of the filter, then close the bleeder screw.
Your pump may have a bleeder screw. If so, open that until fuel streams out with no bubbles, then close it. If you cannot identify the bleeder screw, loosen the inlet connection at the pump and purge air at that point.
Go back and make sure ALL the fittings in the fuel delivery system are tight so they cannot suck air.
Make sure the battery is fully charged. Loosen the fuel fittings at the injectors, either one at a time or all at once. Crank the engine till you see all fuel at the injector fittings and then tighten the fittings. If you do indvidual fittings, the engine will usually start before you get to the last fitting.
Alternatively, you can "tow-start" it to save wear and tear on your starter. Leave the injector lines cracked open at the injectors at first to purge the lines. Then tighten them up and she should start.
Your injection pump puts out a very small amount of fuel (high pressure/low volume). BE PATIENT. If the lines are totally empty, it takes a lot of cranking to fill them up.
sixbales & Jerry/MT
 
   / 2615 wont start HELP PLEASE!!
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Most diesel fuel tanks have a strainer at the outlet. Remove the hose at the shutoff, open the valve fullly. If no fuel comes out, blow compressed air in the valve toward the tank or use a wire to see if you can get it unclogged and drain it.Remove the shut of valve if it's in the tank. The strainer is most likely on the shut off valve. Clean the strainer and then look in the tank to see if it's got a lot of crap and corruption in it. Then flush that out. The stuff you find in the tank bottom is generally caused by water that has condensed inthe tank. Try to keep your fuel tank full to minimize this and you might consider treating the fuel with a biocide to preven t bacteria for living in the tank if you live in a humid climate or use some additive that will help your water separator to precipitate out the water and drain the separator regularly.

Try NAPA for the filters. Auto supply stores don't generally carry the parts but can get them.

Here's a general method for bleeding a diesel fuel system.

Bleeding a Diesel Fuel System

Start at the fuel outlet of the tank (inlet to the filter). Shut the tank valve, remove the line at the filter inlet and holding a suitable container to catch the diesel fuel, open the valve. You should have a CONTINUOUS rush/flow of fuel out of the line. If it dribbles or is intermittent, check the fuel cap for a blockage of the fuel vent or the strainer upstream of the valve for clogging. The strainer/screen is attached to the shut-off valve, and is positioned up inside the tank. You will have to drain the tank and pull the valve to clean the screen.
If you have good fuel flow at that point, reconnect the line and open the bleeder screw at the top of the filter. Turn on the tank valve and wait till you have a steady flow of fuel with no bubbles at the top of the filter, then close the bleeder screw.
Your pump may have a bleeder screw. If so, open that until fuel streams out with no bubbles, then close it. If you cannot identify the bleeder screw, loosen the inlet connection at the pump and purge air at that point.
Go back and make sure ALL the fittings in the fuel delivery system are tight so they cannot suck air.
Make sure the battery is fully charged. Loosen the fuel fittings at the injectors, either one at a time or all at once. Crank the engine till you see all fuel at the injector fittings and then tighten the fittings. If you do indvidual fittings, the engine will usually start before you get to the last fitting.
Alternatively, you can "tow-start" it to save wear and tear on your starter. Leave the injector lines cracked open at the injectors at first to purge the lines. Then tighten them up and she should start.
Your injection pump puts out a very small amount of fuel (high pressure/low volume). BE PATIENT. If the lines are totally empty, it takes a lot of cranking to fill them up.
sixbales & Jerry/MT

I had a local mechanic come help and web bled the lines and have fuel with no air to the injectors. There is a solenoid the injector pump that is not moving. I think it is a fuel shutoff solenoid? Could this be the problem? It just clicks but won't move.
 
   / 2615 wont start HELP PLEASE!! #10  
solenoid !!!


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