Loader New Holland TC35 FEL wont start?

[Passionfortrees]

I have checked the battery, that is good, reading 12.5 V. I have cleaned the ground to the frame. Took out the starter and had it checked and they say that is good? ( maybe they were mistaken? ) reading 12.5v. at positive on starter while ignition is off. As soon as i turn the key on the voltage drops and lights go dim after the click to the starter and then nothing. I have jumped the safety leg switch to the positive on the starter and it turns over hard and slow. No ignition. No hazards or blinkers of headlights even when ignition turned on, then one time they did go on? but now they wont go on. I jumped the starter from safety to the positve and doesnt start. seems like theres not enough voltage. So I put the battery charger to the positive with a good ground, safely made sure I didnt tough all the piping around the area turned on the charger and the lights were all on and bright? so I thought wow I can get this thing startd and put on trailer to get fixed, but no it turned over slow but no ignition.? I jumped it from the safety to the starter while hooked up to batter charger too. nothing. Anyone have an idea what this could be? I checked the fuses inside the dash and all is good, checked fuse inside lower right side compartment were the idle is under the dash? all is good. still have no idea? I am starting to think that the starter was checked and they were wrong? shouldnt he starter while key in on position just turn over and start while jumping from safety plug to positive without the charger? its not in gear and no the PTO is not engaged? any help would be great? thanks. Rich

 

[RobertN]

How old is the battery? Did you have it tested when the starter was checked out?

Might be a bad battery... Charge might go to 12.5V, but it might supply current under load.

If you put a meter on the battery or starter while someone else tries to start the tractor, what kind of voltage do you get?

 

[jinman]

Sounds like a classic case of dirty battery terminals to me. Pull the terminals and clean them shiny clean inside and do the same to the battery. This is a perfect application for a small jumper booster battery. I've used mine many times. Voltage dropping when the key is on is the key here. There is absolutely nothing between the battery and starter but a red positive cable. Monitor that cable at the starter. If voltage drops there, then clean the terminals or get a new battery. Most auto parts stores can check your battery for free.

 

[Passionfortrees]

Sounds like a classic case of dirty battery terminals to me. Pull the terminals and clean them shiny clean inside and do the same to the battery. This is a perfect application for a small jumper booster battery. I've used mine many times. Voltage dropping when the key is on is the key here. There is absolutely nothing between the battery and starter but a red positive cable. Monitor that cable at the starter. If voltage drops there, then clean the terminals or get a new battery. Most auto parts stores can check your battery for free.

Yeah, I had the batter checked! that was the first thing I did! I also switched batter from out of my truck and it did the same thing! All connections are cleaned and shinny! even the ground wire to frame. I am still thinking it's some controller after the ignition? but I dont know yet! still looking for suggestions or any help!

 

[jinman]

Look at the diagram below. To give your starter and wiring from the battery a real test, jumper between the big terminal and the small terminal with a 12 gage or larger wire. You'll have a little spark and the starter solenoid should engage and the starter spin the engine. If not, you may have an internally corroded battery lead that you can't see because of the insulation. Normally it corrodes under the insulation very near to the battery. To test this, jumper a battery to the terminals as shown using jumper cables, and try again. If neither of these tests work, you probably have a bad starter.

EDIT: You don't need the ignition turned ON for either of these tests. It's better not to turn it on because the engine might start if you have the ignition ON. With the ignition OFF, just the starter works.

 

[Passionfortrees]

Look at the diagram below. To give your starter and wiring from the battery a real test, jumper between the big terminal and the small terminal with a 12 gage or larger wire. You'll have a little spark and the starter solenoid should engage and the starter spin the engine. If not, you may have an internally corroded battery lead that you can't see because of the insulation. Normally it corrodes under the insulation very near to the battery. To test this, jumper a battery to the terminals as shown using jumper cables, and try again. If neither of these tests work, you probably have a bad starter.

EDIT: You don't need the ignition turned ON for either of these tests. It's better not to turn it on because the engine might start if you have the ignition ON. With the ignition OFF, just the starter works.

View attachment 285554

Hey , I really appreciate your helping me out. I have done all of this with ignition on and off. the only difference from your diagram is the negative cable was on a bold head from frame and not on the body of the starter? would that make a difference? I want the machine to start so I can get er on the trailer and have it fixed. So it is possible that I had the starter checked and they say it's good, and that it can still be bad. That would really get me aggravated, so much time trying to check other things. uhggggg!

 

[RobertN]

I had this happen to my old Kubota. In troubleshooting, made sure all the terminals and connections were bright and clean at the battery, and at the starter and chassis ground. All were removed, checked, scrubbed, reinstalled. Nothing....

Put a new battery in. Nothing.

Pulled the cables, and upon very close inspection, found major corrosion up under the insulation. Cut the cable open to see; wow was it bad.

Put new cables on, and presto it spun that starter like a champ!

If not, you may have an internally corroded battery lead that you can't see because of the insulation. Normally it corrodes under the insulation very near to the battery. To test this, jumper a battery to the terminals as shown using jumper cables, and try again. If neither of these tests work, you probably have a bad starter.

 

[jinman]

Hey , I really appreciate your helping me out. I have done all of this with ignition on and off. the only difference from your diagram is the negative cable was on a bold head from frame and not on the body of the starter? would that make a difference? I want the machine to start so I can get er on the trailer and have it fixed. So it is possible that I had the starter checked and they say it's good, and that it can still be bad. That would really get me aggravated, so much time trying to check other things. uhggggg!

If you put a battery directly on the starter and it won't turn over, then yes, the starter is bad. You just have to make sure the jumper clips are very clean and making perfect contact. If you could conveniently attach the jumper to the body of the starter, this would be good. Otherwise, ground to one of the subframe's big bolts or similar that you are certain will be a very good ground. If that does not work, I guess you need to pull the starter and check it out of the tractor. Is it possible you have it in crooked and in a bind? BTW: If you have to buy a starter, you can buy them much cheaper than from New Holland. I've seen rebuilts as low as $100 online and new around $160. NH wants over $400 for theirs.

 

[RobertN]

I know it varies by where you are at, but I have done very well having various starter rebuilt locally. They guy that does mine, is well known; some NHRA and NASCAR teams send him starters to build/rebuild with super high torque stuff etc. And, he turned them around in about the same time as it takes to order one.

He also has everything to thoroughly test a starter, and once torn down, it's components.

His price was competitive with any of the rebuilds I have seen, at least for starters I had worked on. And, you know where the core etc came from...

BTW: If you have to buy a starter, you can buy them much cheaper than from New Holland. I've seen rebuilts as low as $100 online and new around $160. NH wants over $400 for theirs.

 

[Passionfortrees]

I know it varies by where you are at, but I have done very well having various starter rebuilt locally. They guy that does mine, is well known; some NHRA and NASCAR teams send him starters to build/rebuild with super high torque stuff etc. And, he turned them around in about the same time as it takes to order one.

He also has everything to thoroughly test a starter, and once torn down, it's components.

His price was competitive with any of the rebuilds I have seen, at least for starters I had worked on. And, you know where the core etc came from...

Well, I tried some new things today and was thinking to check the alternator and water pump? if they were turning or seized while trying to turn over by jumping starter, and all is good nothing seems to be seized. I did notice this.. that when charging the battery while hooked up to tractor as I turned the key and jumped the starter all the lights were on bright, but If I do not charge the battery while jumping the starter then all lights are dim and hardly on. So if I turn the key and I am losing connection or voltage could it be the ignition switch?, also I heard like electricity trying to work ( best way to describe the sound ) below the dash by the flasher fuse, I think it is the glow plug fuse and if that is bad, would that drop the voltage and not allow the machine to start? So I had the batter charger hooked up to the battery and jumped from starter and it sure turned over and fast, so suprised it didnt start? diesel, needs compression right? fuel and glow plug heat? so if the glow plug fuse is not working I am missing the heat? this is the only thing that makes sense to me, I am going to the dealer tomorrow and try replacing ignition and fuse. Still open to any other suggestions. Fuel pump? but that wouldnt allow it to not start and turn over? this is driving me mad. I know it's something simple too. HELP!!!!

 

[jinman]

When the engine turns over but refuses to start, it's normally a problem with the seat switch or you do not have the Range Lever in neutral and the Parking Brake set. If you have both of those, then you don't need to be in the seat. If not, the safety system will not send power to the fuel cutoff solenoid on the back of the injector pump.

 

[Passionfortrees]

When the engine turns over but refuses to start, it's normally a problem with the seat switch or you do not have the Range Lever in neutral and the Parking Brake set. If you have both of those, then you don't need to be in the seat. If not, the safety system will not send power to the fuel cutoff solenoid on the back of the injector pump.

Alright so far heres whats going on, I disconnected positive batter cable and used jumper cables only one side on positive to positive on starter and reading 12.5V. even when I turn the key on still has 12.5v. before just hooked up w battery normal readings dropped to 3.5v. so I think I have a bad positive cable. but it still doesnt turn over. so I kept the jumper cable on starter and battery, with a jumper from plug on starter to the starter while having the wire disconnected to the back of the fuel pump but replaced with a wire long enough to reach the batter to the back prong on the fuel pump and while jumping starter she started right up. So I have a bad safetly switch either the parking brake or PTO or transmission, I do not have a seat switch? I cant find it anywere? but still working on it. might just get er running enough to put on trailer and send to dealer. uhggggggggg!! Ill keep ya posted, thanks somuch for all your help guys!

 

[Passionfortrees]

Alright guys! here it is! hope this might help someone in the future! looks like two problems happened. One losing voltage to starter when turning key is not suppose to happen so I disconnected batter terminal from battery and jumped with cables from battery to starter, then as I turned the key I did not lose voltage. which means bad positive cable! Then it still wouldnt start so I jumped the fuel pump by using a long enough wire to connect from battery to back of the pump, pulled off the wire connect and put on the wire hooked striaght from battery , then jumped the starter by disconnecting the plug on starter and making contact from their to positive on starter, then behold she starts! drove on to trailer to get fixed. Still dont know which safety switch went bad, but thinking it is the PTO or parking brake? Pain in the arse!!!

 

[pnut]

Please post what repair shop determined was problem! I am having a similar problem.

 

[Passionfortrees]

Please post what repair shop determined was problem! I am having a similar problem.

replaced batter positive cable, they couldnt make one up so they ordered one from factory! secondly there were a couple realays / Fuses that were acting up and then working then acting up , so they were replaced and better connections were made as well. Electrical problems will drive you freaking crazy. Not to mention that during the process of me diagnosing and taking the battery out to get checked, while putting back I accidentally made contact to the negative terminal and the positive terminal with a wrench in my hand touching my wedding ring and arched / welded the ring and burned the ***** out of my ring finger so bad, i lost muscle and now have a permanent ring burn that will take about 6 months to heal. real bad. EVERYBODY WEAR GLOVES WHILE CHANGING OR WORKING ON BATTERIES! Now the tractor is in perfect condition and I am selling now for anyone interested. only 850 hrs. PassionForTrees@aol.com or 203-305-5842 Rich

 

[pedalstomper78]

I had the same issue with my Case DX33. (Same as a TC33 NH) I actually melted 3 key switches.....but I had similar problems. Slow or no starting. I replaced the starter and the battery. Turns out, both were fine.

New Holland had a problem with the key switches. You need to install a relay between the key and the starter solenoid. Have the key trigger the relay and I used a 30a relay that was wired directly to the battery terminal. It's a pretty simple wiring thing to do and I'm actually thinking of making kits for it. The 5th page of this thread should be loads of help for you!!!
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/124642-tc33d-wont-start-5.html

 

[ccap74]

Im on my third ignition switch. First one stuck in start, the second one had some of the same problems as yours.

 

[pedalstomper78]

Do the relay. It is "THE FIX" for these tractors.

If you need help....let me know. I set mine up and it would be easy for me to do another. Just wire it in amd go

 

[rejean caouette]

Iam having problem with the starter , put a new one and a few days later same problem wen I turn the hey to start I here a click sound 5 to 6 time s before it turn over and start now this time dont even have a clicking sound at the starter is my ignition switches gone bad, not fun at all watt could be the problem.