KUBOTA 1630 loader attachment

[chrisloza]

OK I'm in a wee bit over my head here! I got my hands on a 1630 KUBOTA loader attachment but all the hoses are disconnected and no manual |I can't find a manual that actually shows me where they go. Anybody have a PDF diagram> Any help at this point would be greatly appreceated! I,m in Central America and there ain't any help close by!

Thanks!

Chris

 

[J_J]

Try this.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Instruct/I9-7401.pdf

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Instruct/I9-4782.pdf

 

[chrisloza]

Thanks J_J

I'm a little lost but I think I have all the hose assignments right. Hoses A,B,C,D I connected the loader to a KUBOTA B7100 HST. Just fired it up and the bucket jumped upward by itself. "Almost ripped my bumper off!" I had to boost the battery at the time!

There's a little play on the piston. It feels like the pressure is way too high! Dang thing sprung a leak on the bigger left Hydraulic post "A" too!

 

[J_J]

Did you make sure that the loader valve, and tractor is open center hydraulics?

Lets make sure you have the hoses connected correctly.

If the valve was in neutral, the fluid would just flow through the valve to the next valve.

The flow from the pump should go to the IN port.

Return /tank port hose should go to the return or tank line.

If you have PB, and adapter, this hose should go to the 3pt input.

A and B on one spool should go to a tee then going to one cyl set.

C and D should go to a tee and then go to another cyl set.

Check your relief valve setting, as that will be your hyd system relief. Somewhere around 2200 psi

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/7/1271-kubota-b7100.html

 

[chrisloza]

J_J do you have any ideas on where I can get an exploded parts view of the Single Lever Control Valve as pictured above? I'm guessing I need to replace some seals and quite possibly the First spool. It looks worn out at the very end but I don't have anything to compare it too! I'm beginning to think this part is a "Grey Market" model.

Thanks!

Chris

 

[J_J]

I don't believe you can just replace worn spools, as they are supposed to be a precision fit.

If your spools have o-rings, those can be replaced.

Is your spools leaking externally?

Try this place.

Kubota Parts for Tractors and Equipment

What brand is the loader valve.

 

[chrisloza]

I'm going over to the garage and pull it out! Take some pics for you and try to find some other stampings on it. I did notice there was not an orifice plate in there either!

Chris

 

[wdchyd]

The tractor jumping and springing a leak should be a heads up that you are in over your head.....If you are hooking this up wrong you could be in for some serious and dangerous malfunctions.....and more costly to your tractor internally too

You need someone with experience to help hook this up BEFORE you start yanking hyd valves and making more problems.......Get that running right before messing with the valve leak, yes the valve is repairable (or replacable) but the bigger issue is safety to keep from blowing yourself up and getting it hooked up right

Hydraulics can be dangerous to yourself and other by-standers in the wrong inexperienced hands......Just saying.....:confused3:

 

[Leejohn]

The tractor jumping and springing a leak should be a heads up that you are in over your head.....If you are hooking this up wrong you could be in for some serious and dangerous malfunctions.....and more costly to your tractor internally too

You need someone with experience to help hook this up BEFORE you start yanking hyd valves and making more problems.......Get that running right before messing with the valve leak, yes the valve is repairable (or replacable) but the bigger issue is safety to keep from blowing yourself up and getting it hooked up right

Hydraulics can be dangerous to yourself and other by-standers in the wrong inexperienced hands......Just saying.....:confused3:

Amen. If you want to look at some good drawing go to Prince Hyd and look at them. But also check and recheck before putting power to it. If it doesn't seem right get someone there with experience.

 

[Leejohn]

Don't know if this well load, but it's the loader on my b7800. I know it's not the same as yours, but the 7800 used 3 different valves and just maybe one is somewhat like yours. Don't order parts from it for your. even if it looks the same. It's just to maybe help you with how the valves look inside and the plumbing.

 

[chrisloza]

OK I got a little side tracked! I could not find any other tags showing manufacturer. I took some of it appart and here's what I found.(see attachment) There is a very worn out part at the end where 2 small ball bearings keep the actuator or spool in place. When I went to reassemble it I tightened the same tip and then losened it a quarter turn so a less worn portion would line up with the balls. After complete assembly I tried it out and the bucket no longer lifted by itself. The worn out tip on the spool was the problem! But! The loader still seemed to lift and drop way too fast and I'm thinking the problem with the pressure could be a missing "orifice". I'm guessing an orifice in the "A" or "B" side could slow the flow down some????? Also, if you look into the hole for the spool you'll notice there appears to be some O rings inside. I'm not sure if there may be one missing but without a a parts diagram for this unit I'm kinda dangling here!

 

[wdchyd]

You're wandering into dark territory here trying to repair that yourself

that worn spot and rusty parts may impede the stroking of the spool or not hold the spool during the "float" position or keep it engaged not spring centered.....but orifices missing is not your trouble

that oring blew out for a reason (ie: hoses hooked up wrong creating too much back-pressure in the return port)

the orings you see are just near the outside of the valve to prevent oil from getting out before it is diverted back to return tank.......technically that valve would work (other than it would puke oil all over the place) with out any orings in there, so the real trouble is getting troubleshooting done before you start yanking stuff apart

First you said it went up on it's own, now you are saying is goes down by itself (too fast?)......maybe you have cylinder troubles too

Looking at the condition of that corroded spool, you'd be better off getting a replacement valve anyways, those spools are precision fit and not a replacement part, then rule out crossed connections of hoses and/or cyl by-passing

Don't make this harder than it already is......try to find out what works and what doesn't work first

 

[J_J]

I agree. It would be hard to clean up the rust to allow the valve to work correctly.

I would recomend something like these valves.

Two lever valve

Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL PRINCE VALVE SAE PORTS

Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL 10 GPM PRINCE LVT1GB5AC1-26 OC VALVE

joystick valve

Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL COMPACT 10 GPM JOYSTICK CONTROL VALVE

 

[chrisloza]

Hey guys!

Since I backed off the tip of the spool there ain't no more lifting or dropping of the bucket by itself. But I'm still having problems with too much power. Lifting or dropping etc. No matter what direction I push the joy stick in,,,,,It just goes way too fast. The whole tractor jumps and jolts! Are you sure the orifice won't play any role in slowing down the action? A pressure release valve? Or could there be blockage in the pump or a return line mayabe?

 

[J_J]

What is the tip of the spool you are talking about?

It is hard to believe that 3 GPM from your tractor pump and you feathering the valve, that you have to much power of fluid flow.

Yes, restrictors or needle valves will reduce the flow rate to the cyl's.

The purpose of the valve lever is to provide a certain lift rate.

 

[chrisloza]

The tip screws off of the actuator for "A" and "B" that lifts and lowers the bucket. The spring and ball keep the rod cenetered The other actuator is completely different.

Oh ya! Its got some pressure alright! Unless I really lower the throttle it just reaches for the sky. When the seal blew on the left post the fluid pissed out a good 20ft before it hit the shop wall. I barely have to touch the joy stick. If I lower the throttle enough to slow the lift rate the engine wants to quit!

Usually the lift rate has a comfortable limit though!

 

[J_J]

Do you have a hyd 3000 psi gage?

If so, install in a tee in the IN port of the loader vale.

With all valves in neutral, what pressure do you see.

If the 3pt is in the raise position, the 3pt relief valve might be activated, and the relief pressure will be felt back through the system. The loader valve will see maybe 2250 psi, and as soon as you move the loader valve lever, full pressure and volume will be at the lift cyl, and cause the sudden rise of the lift arms.

Move the 3pt lever to neutral. and then operate the loader valve.

Let us know about some of the pressure you see.

The engine wants to stall because you are working against a load.

With all hyd valves in neutral, the fluid from the pump should just flow freely through all valves to tank with no or very little pressure.

 

[wdchyd]

. When the seal blew on the left post the fluid pissed out a good 20ft before it hit the shop wall. I barely have to touch the joy stick. If I lower the throttle enough to slow the lift rate the engine wants to quit!
!

I'm thinking someone here needs to post that pix of the hand with the high pressure injection incident......

You still have a problem with crossed hoses or restricted return line.......something is not right and it has nothing to do with the spring centering or float detents....

OK< I'll shut up>......

 

[J_J]

Here are some solvent/hyd injection injury pics.

http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/our-blog/bid/39816/Hydraulic-Oil-Injection-Injuries

 

[chrisloza]

Dang! Don't worry guys,,,I ain't that crazy! As per a diagram found for this loader attachment, all hoses were indeed correct. I sent the hydraulic post off to some Menonites 200 plus miles from here for repairs. I'll pull the filter off and check the return line incase I guess!