Marcle
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2012
- Messages
- 151
- Tractor
- Iseki 2140
Too late now as you've cut the corner off....
I too have a box grader the same as yours and have only just started using it, and can now see some "design errors" (for the want of a better expression). Though I suppose it depends on your intended use. There are several ways to prevent the edge cutting in to the tarmac (Ashfelt or what ever you guys call the tar soaked gravel road covering). One is to remove the problem by cutting the corner off like you have done, another is to weld on some flat with a rounded front edge and another is to fit a wheel inside the leading edge of the sides, ideally with some way of controlling their height. This would then avoid any errors with adjustment of the top link.
I've just started grading about 2km of track (mainly gravel, dust and stones up to around 40mm (1.5") - though currently very wet and muddy due to all the rain we've had) that has been maintained solely by filling in the pot holes generated on wet days by large trucks. Whilst I have got the track a lot smoother than its been for years, I can see I'm going to have to do some modifications to my box grader. At present I don't think there is too much of an issue with my leading edges, I can see the usefulness of adjustable leading edges described in the previous paragraph. I'm also going to fit a pair of car wheels out the back of the grader, possible about 3' back and independently height adjustable. I'd also like to fit a pair of wheels outside the box in line with the blade as I've found it difficult to control the height of the blade to spread the spoil out evenly. Hopefully I can the set the wheels to guide the box to cut deeper one side than the other, thus enabling some run off for the rain.
With the box in standard format, I've got the tines set at more or less the same height as the box leading edge, so by careful adjustment of the top link, I can control the cutting depth of the tines from zero depth to about 1.5". But all goes to pot with the dips and hillocks along the track!
I too have a box grader the same as yours and have only just started using it, and can now see some "design errors" (for the want of a better expression). Though I suppose it depends on your intended use. There are several ways to prevent the edge cutting in to the tarmac (Ashfelt or what ever you guys call the tar soaked gravel road covering). One is to remove the problem by cutting the corner off like you have done, another is to weld on some flat with a rounded front edge and another is to fit a wheel inside the leading edge of the sides, ideally with some way of controlling their height. This would then avoid any errors with adjustment of the top link.
I've just started grading about 2km of track (mainly gravel, dust and stones up to around 40mm (1.5") - though currently very wet and muddy due to all the rain we've had) that has been maintained solely by filling in the pot holes generated on wet days by large trucks. Whilst I have got the track a lot smoother than its been for years, I can see I'm going to have to do some modifications to my box grader. At present I don't think there is too much of an issue with my leading edges, I can see the usefulness of adjustable leading edges described in the previous paragraph. I'm also going to fit a pair of car wheels out the back of the grader, possible about 3' back and independently height adjustable. I'd also like to fit a pair of wheels outside the box in line with the blade as I've found it difficult to control the height of the blade to spread the spoil out evenly. Hopefully I can the set the wheels to guide the box to cut deeper one side than the other, thus enabling some run off for the rain.
With the box in standard format, I've got the tines set at more or less the same height as the box leading edge, so by careful adjustment of the top link, I can control the cutting depth of the tines from zero depth to about 1.5". But all goes to pot with the dips and hillocks along the track!
