MF 135 Transmission Leaks Clear Fluid from Weep Hole

[klancf51]

well now we need to find out which side its coming from, engine or trans
.

Its hydraulic fluid - not crankcase oil. I'm sure.

 

[flusher]

Its hydraulic fluid - not crankcase oil. I'm sure.

Not good--looks like you'll be splitting your 135 and getting to know it up close and personal.
Just be sure to chock the front axle securely so the tractor doesn't rock side to side while you're working on it.

Good luck

 

[namyessam]

I am surprised no one has mentioned this yet, so I will. You stated the tractor is a deluxe so I assume it has multipower. Have you tried operating in low multipower for an extended time. The hydraulic oil that engages the multipower clutch in high range comes from a multipower pump in the rear of the axle housing. It flows through the multipower valve in the clutch housing into the input shaft housing and into the imput shafts. These channels are sealed both directions by metal seal rings that wear the seal surfaces on the shafts and housing. If these rings leak it will get into the clutch housing and on the clutch. The pressure to the clutch is only present in when the multipower lever is in high. So by switching to low you should be able to stop the leak until such time you are able to split the tractor and repair it properly. Remember that the tractor will free wheel in low multipower and will not engine brake, so be carefull. I had a leak also in my 135 and replacing the seal rings solved it. Others have stated that a few drops of oil out of the housing are pretty much normal for these tractors with multipower. I believe this to be accurate and I hope someone with multipower experience offers some more help.

Dan

 

[The kid]

I am surprised no one has mentioned this yet, so I will. You stated the tractor is a deluxe so I assume it has multipower. Have you tried operating in low multipower for an extended time. The hydraulic oil that engages the multipower clutch in high range comes from a multipower pump in the rear of the axle housing. It flows through the multipower valve in the clutch housing into the input shaft housing and into the imput shafts. These channels are sealed both directions by metal seal rings that wear the seal surfaces on the shafts and housing. If these rings leak it will get into the clutch housing and on the clutch. The pressure to the clutch is only present in when the multipower lever is in high. So by switching to low you should be able to stop the leak until such time you are able to split the tractor and repair it properly. Remember that the tractor will free wheel in low multipower and will not engine brake, so be carefull. I had a leak also in my 135 and replacing the seal rings solved it. Others have stated that a few drops of oil out of the housing are pretty much normal for these tractors with multipower. I believe this to be accurate and I hope someone with multipower experience offers some more help.

Dan

ummm. he did say it was a 6 speed. The deluxe comes with or without multipower. but that info you wrote is good to know.

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[namyessam]

If he is losing oil at a rate of 1 quart per hour, it would seem that it is a pressurized leak and not just a bad seal. The seal would have to be completely gone and I don't know if it would leak that much if that was the case. In any case replacing the front seal and bushing for the PTO shaft in not difficult, if I remember correctly the depth they are pressed in is critical for clearence of mating parts so they don't interfer with each other and cause damage to the new parts. I measured the old before disassembling and put the new in to the same dimensions. This was on a multipower transmission and am not sure this is the same on the standard transmission.

Dan

 

[The kid]

If he is losing oil at a rate of 1 quart per hour, it would seem that it is a pressurized leak and not just a bad seal. The seal would have to be completely gone and I don't know if it would leak that much if that was the case. In any case replacing the front seal and bushing for the PTO shaft in not difficult, if I remember correctly the depth they are pressed in is critical for clearence of mating parts so they don't interfer with each other and cause damage to the new parts. I measured the old before disassembling and put the new in to the same dimensions. This was on a multipower transmission and am not sure this is the same on the standard transmission.

Dan

As flusher already mentioned. The tractor is going to have to be split. That is not an easy task. Replacing the seals is a different level of difficulty.

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[namyessam]

The author asked in his original post if there were any "gotchas" replacing the seals. I was just responding to that question. The fact that the tractor needs to be split to perform this work is obvious and is understood by the author in that same post. The answers to the rest of his questions hinges on what transmission he has in his tractor. I also was offering suggestions to possibly delay the repair until better weather in Pa. or when he has sufficient time to take his time and do it right. He mentioned he needs to get this tractor back to work. I was offering my experience in dealing with the same problem and suggest he takes care of all potential problems while he has the tractor split so he doesn't have to do it again. This is how I approached my repair and hope to never have to do it again in this lifetime. Splitting a tractor is not an easy job and putting it back together has it issues also. I had the opportunity to work for a Massey dealer repair shop during and after high school and was the mechanics helper, so I split numerous tractors during that time. Having the correct equipment to handle the split safley is the utmost importance. Getting pinned under a tractor and getting hurt is not worth the money saved. So work slowly and always have a way out if something goes wrong.

Dan

 

[klancf51]

The author asked in his original post if there were any "gotchas" replacing the seals. I was just responding to that question. The fact that the tractor needs to be split to perform this work is obvious and is understood by the author in that same post. The answers to the rest of his questions hinges on what transmission he has in his tractor. I also was offering suggestions to possibly delay the repair until better weather in Pa. or when he has sufficient time to take his time and do it right. He mentioned he needs to get this tractor back to work. I was offering my experience in dealing with the same problem and suggest he takes care of all potential problems while he has the tractor split so he doesn't have to do it again. This is how I approached my repair and hope to never have to do it again in this lifetime. Splitting a tractor is not an easy job and putting it back together has it issues also. I had the opportunity to work for a Massey dealer repair shop during and after high school and was the mechanics helper, so I split numerous tractors during that time. Having the correct equipment to handle the split safley is the utmost importance. Getting pinned under a tractor and getting hurt is not worth the money saved. So work slowly and always have a way out if something goes wrong.

Dan

My tractor has the dual range (6-speed) transmission (i.e. not multipower). As I understand it, I will have to split the transmission from the engine and probably also from the differential.The questions in my original post stem mainly from my concerns about dis-assembly/re-assembly: as you correctly noted, I don't want anyone to get hurt. I also want to avoid damage to any expensive components (transmission, final drive) and re-work. Safety is my top concern and I am putting a fair amount of planning into this. Thanks for your thoughtful reply and please post any tips or thoughts as they may come to you.

 

[The kid]

My tractor has the dual range (6-speed) transmission (i.e. not multipower). As I understand it, I will have to split the transmission from the engine and probably also from the differential.The questions in my original post stem mainly from my concerns about dis-assembly/re-assembly: as you correctly noted, I don't want anyone to get hurt. I also want to avoid damage to any expensive components (transmission, final drive) and re-work. Safety is my top concern and I am putting a fair amount of planning into this. Thanks for your thoughtful reply and please post any tips or thoughts as they may come to you.

Splitting a tractor will require several hydraulic jacks to keep it stable. One jack on wheels paralell with the rear wheels which will support the tranny and rearend. This end will be easier to roll away (two man job) . The front half is a bit tricky. Since the engine sits on a moving axle, you'll need two to three jacks to keep it vertical. I would place all load bearing on stationary jacks while working on it for safety. I don't subscribe to working under a car/tractor or what ever unless it's sitting on something solid. There is a systematic order to seperate that should be followed (shop manual). Just remember one end of the tractor is going to have to move away from the other. Roller jacks are a must. Stationary jacks to place after seperation for safety.

 

[flusher]

My tractor has the dual range (6-speed) transmission (i.e. not multipower). As I understand it, I will have to split the transmission from the engine and probably also from the differential.The questions in my original post stem mainly from my concerns about dis-assembly/re-assembly: as you correctly noted, I don't want anyone to get hurt. I also want to avoid damage to any expensive components (transmission, final drive) and re-work. Safety is my top concern and I am putting a fair amount of planning into this. Thanks for your thoughtful reply and please post any tips or thoughts as they may come to you.

I've disassembled a few tractors. In addition to the usual roll around jacks, jack stands, cribbing, engine hoists, engine stands, etc, I use my 1-ton gantry crane a lot for this type of work. Harbor Freight--about $600 for the crane and the chain hoist.



Good luck.