CK20 cracked FEL

[GMtb42]

In case anyone wonders what the kit looks like installed here it is (someone may have already done this) ;

 

[mpham]

Thanks for the pic. I now know my 2008 hasn't been done.

 

[IslandTractor]

Thanks for the pic. I now know my 2008 hasn't been done.

Your 2008 should have the KL120B loader which does not need the reinforcing kit. I believe all CK20 loaders built after 2007 (?2006) are the new style. Easy to check: if there is a tube connecting the two loader arms then it is the new style.

 

[mpham]

OK. Will check and see. Mine sold as a 2008 but has a 2006 serial number. I actually just purchased a complete 2011 ck120 loader unit used.

 

[treman]

I would be curious as to where I can look or if someone could tell me how to find out what year my ck27 is based on the serial number. you all seem to know and I must either be looking in the wrong place or just overlooking something simple.
thanks

 

[mpham]

I would be curious as to where I can look or if someone could tell me how to find out what year my ck27 is based on the serial number. you all seem to know and I must either be looking in the wrong place or just overlooking something simple.
thanks

Check here:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/231872-kioti-vin-numbers.html

 

[oldernwiser]

I've had the repair kit for quite a while and never got around to installing it. Finally opened the box today and there are no instructions in the box. Anyone have them available?

Thanks ... John

 

[GMtb42]

John, I had no instructions here either, pretty simple goes on one way.
I removed the pins on the bucket cylinders (toward bucket) and propped them up with a block of wood so as to get the large plate with the hose slots over the crossmember, I needed to clean out grease holes in pins anyways (might be able to go from underneath with FEL up in air without taking cylinders loose) Once I got the larger piece on I reattached the cylinders and raised the FEL so I could work on the part better, about shoulder height, made it easy to hold "C" part by myself and insert the blots and other parts.
The "C" channel goes facing cup inward (mine had notches for a front grill guard they line with the notches in larger piece), the long flat spacer piece goes on bottom, the 2 smaller flap pieces go between the "C" channel and the crossmember there are notches on each end of the "C" channel to accommodate the tongue of the flap parts, there are 16 bolts that are the same and 4 different with smaller heads, those along with nuts on each go into the "C" channel where the 4 blot holes are in the bottom of the "C" channel, they are a tight fit almost think they are wrong size, I think they did that to make sure there is a resistance on them (I tightened them by hand, they are hard to turn, you can feel when they actually bottom out on the plates), the other 16 bolts with lock washer (tightened them with impact) and nuts go into the other holes. I put the "C" channel in and used a bolt on either side at each end to hold it left nuts loose, dropped one end down slid the flap piece between "C" part and crossmember tongue down, replaced bolts then did the same on the other end. Tighten all 16 then tighten the 4 last is what I did. YMMV

 

[HereticWild]

Your 2008 should have the KL120B loader which does not need the reinforcing kit. I believe all CK20 loaders built after 2007 (?2006) are the new style. Easy to check: if there is a tube connecting the two loader arms then it is the new style.

I bought a new CK20HST in May 2012, the serial number starts with K so I assume it's a 2011 edition. It came with a KL120 Loader Pkg w/50" Bucket and Grille Guard (free loader deal). Serial Number for that starts with TA1009. How do I know if it's the newer version?

 

[IslandTractor]

I bought a new CK20HST in May 2012, the serial number starts with K so I assume it's a 2011 edition. It came with a KL120 Loader Pkg w/50" Bucket and Grille Guard (free loader deal). Serial Number for that starts with TA1009. How do I know if it's the newer version?

Is the torque tube (the connecting piece about three feet behind the bucket that holds the left and right side of the loader together) round and hollow or is it a closed box? Almost certainly you have the round tube version as the original version has not been manufactured for about five years now.

 

[mpham]

I bought a whole new assembly for mine. So now I have both styles. I will grab a pic of both in the next couple days.(kinda busy now) and post them here.

 

[case245]

on my kubota the torque tube is round and hollow right behind the quick attach on the loader arms

 

[IslandTractor]

I bought a whole new assembly for mine. So now I have both styles. I will grab a pic of both in the next couple days.(kinda busy now) and post them here.

Pray tell, why did you buy a new loader?

 

[HereticWild]

Is the torque tube (the connecting piece about three feet behind the bucket that holds the left and right side of the loader together) round and hollow or is it a closed box? Almost certainly you have the round tube version as the original version has not been manufactured for about five years now.

Thanks - looks like I'm good. On the actual sticker on the loader it says it's a KL120P.

It's round and hollow but also has a cover.

 

[mpham]

Pray tell, why did you buy a new loader?

Mine flexed like a snake and the pistons were all worn out needing packing. The prior owner didn't own a grease gun it appears. The new one was a take off of another machine that the owner didn't want. I got it at a good deal.
Still no pics. Didn't make it to the garage yet for but will today after work.

 

[IslandTractor]

That is remarkable. Glad you found a replacement at a good price. I would imagine the older worn loader is still worth $$$$ so don't scrap it.

Replacing the cylinders would be an interesting project with a steep learning curve. I watched an expert do a demo once which was interesting and demystified the process. The parts are cheap and having seen it done, it appears not to require finesse so much as a feel for when and how to apply brute force. A big vice is the only must have piece of equipment. The first one would take a while but the other three would be much easier. I'm sure people on TBN have done it themselves and could provide advice.

 

[case245]

i seen it done on a 580b case backhoe that was 25 yrs ago i was 9 i think

 

[mpham]

I've rebuilt a few when working at my dad's garage when I was younger. We fixed all types of trucks and tractors.
Pics as promised.
Old style (2006-2008) This has a rear access panel bolted on.
back view

front view

side view

 

[mpham]

New style or 2011 model. This has a wrap around cover front to back.

back

front

side

Hope this helps.

 

[IslandTractor]

I've rebuilt a few when working at my dad's garage when I was younger. We fixed all types of trucks and tractors.
Pics as promised.
Old style (2006-2008) first:
back viewView attachment 301336

front viewView attachment 301337

side viewView attachment 301338

I see grease coming out of those joints. Was that only after you got the tractor? Are the bushings also in need of replacement? That would seem to be a much bigger job than just repacking the cylinders.