Grind the bevel off weldable hooks?

[Teikas Dad]

I've bought some weldable grab hooks for my FEL that I'm going to weld on to a piece of angle steel on top of the loader bucket. They are the same configuration as the photo below. I'm going to weld them on using a MIG welder and I have a question before I start. Should I grind the bevel off the back side so they sit flat on the steel or leave the bevel and build up the welds in the bevel?

 

[Morning Wood]

Build it up. Make sure you get a good root pass.

 

[gwdixon]

I wouldn't MIG them but that's me. If you are very experienced then maybe. The problem is the weld and hook likely will occasionally be used in critical situations.


Grinding the mill scale off of the bevel to bright metal is strongly advised. Same for the parent metal...especially for MIG. The bevel is there so the weld will approach 100% (at least better than a fillet weld would be).

 

[Shield Arc]

I just put the same type of hook on my chain link fence spooler, there is not much bevel, fill it up.

 

[/pine]

I always thought when welding flush pieces that the edges should be beveled to give the weld more hold...??

 

[Teikas Dad]

Thanks all.....

Clean em up, clean up the steel on the angle and fill em up!

 

[Shield Arc]

Remember now, if you are going to use Mig. Weld as hot as you can handle it! :thumbsup:

 

[Teikas Dad]

Remember now, if you are going to use Mig. Weld as hot as you can handle it! :thumbsup:

Carl, would it help if I preheated the hook with a propane torch or just run the welder hot?

 

[Shield Arc]

As long as the hook and angle iron are over 50-degrees, I wouldn't worry about it. Your 187 is going to be plenty of welder for this task.

But lets see pictures first!

 

[Teikas Dad]

As long as the hook and angle iron are over 50-degrees, I wouldn't worry about it. Your 187 is going to be plenty of welder for this task.

But lets see pictures first!

Because I want to make sure I get the welds right I think I may buy a couple more hooks just to do some practice welds on. For the $10 that the two hooks cost I'll have the piece of mind knowing that I'm welding them correctly. As soon as I get some coupons or other scrap to practice on I'll post the pictures for you to critique for me, then I'll do the practice welds on the spare hooks.

Thanks!

 

[Shield Arc]

Teikas Dad did you see this thread I started about Mig weld testing?
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/212146-mig-break-test.html


Here is a good calculator by Miller, I suggest you bookmark it.
Miller - Welding Calculators

 

[Teikas Dad]

Thanks Carl. When I do my practice welds I'll beat up a couple and take some before and after photos.

I took a look at the Miller link. With the 187 am I able to do spray or is that strictly a short circuit transfer machine?

 

[dstig1]

You can't get to spray voltages with a 187, even on 220v (if that even has the dual voltage option available?). You need 24-25 V and 200A+ of current, and the 187 appears to top out around 20v. Th calculator is your friend

Miller - MIG Welding Calculator

 

[Shield Arc]

With the 187 am I able to do spray or is that strictly a short circuit transfer machine?

Like dstig1 says, I don't think you can get to spray with your machine. I've only played with spray a little bit. From what I understand your only chance might be with 98% argon, and 2% oxygen.
Here is my results with my V350-Pro with 90% argon and 10% Co2. This was with .035" Lincoln L-56 wire. Note the amount of voltage 29.0! It didn't take long until my 200-amp Mig gun was so hot the contact tip was soft!
To be honest with you, for people like us, I don't think spray is worth all the trouble. In a high production shop, yes! For us hobbyist type, nope!

 

[20 20]

If I'm not mistaken the bevel is actually there for the weld? Kind of like cutting/grinding a V into big pieces when welding.

 

[Shield Arc]

One thing to think about. If you really want to put these hooks on correctly? Is space them up a little. When I built my gooseneck adapter for my trailer. I beveled the vertical beams, but also spaced them up a little.

 

[RoyJackson]

I always thought when welding flush pieces that the edges should be beveled to give the weld more hold...??

Weld joints are normally beveled for better penetration.
I wouldn't grind those bevels off the hooks.

 

[Teikas Dad]

Thanks all. The bevels stay. Carl, if I read your post correctly in comparison to the photos, are you recommending that I lift the hooks up slightly from the surface I'm going to weld them to? If so, what do recommend, 1/16th or so?

Gotta love this forum....just think how bad I'd screw things up without all of you guys!

 

[RoyJackson]

Thanks all. The bevels stay. Carl, if I read your post correctly in comparison to the photos, are you recommending that I lift the hooks up slightly from the surface I'm going to weld them to? If so, what do recommend, 1/16th or so?

Gotta love this forum....just think how bad I'd screw things up without all of you guys!

I'm not going to answer for Carl...but I will recommend you concentrate the heat on the hooks until the puddle forms. Those are solid forgings and you do want to ensure you get good fusion in both the hook and the lighter gage metal of the bucket.

 

[Teikas Dad]

I'm not going to answer for Carl...but I will recommend you concentrate the heat on the hooks until the puddle forms. Those are solid forgings and you do want to ensure you get good fusion in both the hook and the lighter gage metal of the bucket.

Thanks Roy. I'm going to weld the hooks to a 3/16th thick 3X3 angle that I'm going to run across the top of the bucket. I'm going to weld the angle to the top lip of the bucket and to the back of the bucket to strengthen everything.