mikehaugen
Elite Member
sorry to hear it.
absolutely pointless rant
- Thread starter dhagood
- Start date
- Views: 8165
mjncad
Super Member
Sorry to hear the effort was in vain. Please tell me that you aren't going to hold a candlelight vigil for your Pathfinder like the tofu-warriors in Boulder did for the elk the two dumba$$ cops poached.
It's always a tough decision when a vehicle gets to this age and is virtually worthless. Spending your time, money and mental energy on something that may break a few days / months later is always the million dollar question.
mjncad
Super Member
One last thought before you scrap the old girl. Have you looked into Time-serts? They're similar to Heli-coils; but a couple of my buddies say they work much better.
++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,
++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,
Never give up!
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You can use it without a front suspension.
More photos at:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2483980/1993-nissan-pathfinder/
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Or put in a solid front axle.
http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/tech/0710_4wd_1990_nissan_pathfinder_suspension/photo_14.html
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You can use it without a front suspension.
More photos at:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2483980/1993-nissan-pathfinder/
================================================
Or put in a solid front axle.
http://www.4wdandsportutility.com/tech/0710_4wd_1990_nissan_pathfinder_suspension/photo_14.html
OP
dhagood
Silver Member
yes, i have looked into time-serts to fix this problem. i bought the M14x1.5 kit, drilled out the hole, counterbored said hole, and messed up tapping the oversized hole in order to install the insert such that i broke the tap in the hole during the threading process.
but i just realized i could buy another over-size tap to replace the one i broke and try to time-sert it again. the hole was tig welded, tapped, and the threads stripped, so i'm back to trying to fix a stripped out M14 hole. if it doesn't work, i'm no worse off than i am now.
thanks dude
OP
dhagood
Silver Member
so i ordered the new m14-1.5 tap from time-sert (it's not really a m14-1.5 tap, it's an over size tap that cuts threads for the insert. the interior threads on the insert are m14-1.5) and cooled my heels waiting for it to show up. while i waited, i noticed that the welder did not weld all the area inside the stripped out nut, so there were gaps in the new threads towards the inside of the nut. these gaps persisted after i drilled out the hole for the insert. after scratching my head for a bit, i busted out the jb weld and gooped up the gaps. i did this a couple of times, let it harden for 24 hours, and then re-drilled the hole. the new tap arrived, and i carefully (carefully!) tapped the oversize hole and installed the insert. i made sure i had new bolts, installed the a-arm, torqued up the bolts.....
and it held. so, is it fixed? dunno. i'm going to finish the rest of the repairs i started and then go bash that wheel against the curb leading up to my driveway several times. if it is still holding after i abuse it a bit, i'll have the front end aligned and we'll see what happens. it might last 20 minutes, and it might last 20 years.
if it doesn't last, i have another idea. i'll remove the current m14 insert and get an m16-1.5 time-sert kit and install the insert. then i'll get a machinist to take a m16-1.5 bolt and turn a section down to m14-1.5 and install my custom stud using thread locking compound in the frame.
perseverance uber alles!
and it held. so, is it fixed? dunno. i'm going to finish the rest of the repairs i started and then go bash that wheel against the curb leading up to my driveway several times. if it is still holding after i abuse it a bit, i'll have the front end aligned and we'll see what happens. it might last 20 minutes, and it might last 20 years.
if it doesn't last, i have another idea. i'll remove the current m14 insert and get an m16-1.5 time-sert kit and install the insert. then i'll get a machinist to take a m16-1.5 bolt and turn a section down to m14-1.5 and install my custom stud using thread locking compound in the frame.
perseverance uber alles!
mjncad
Super Member
Cool! I'm glad to hear the Time-sert worked! I'll bet tapping that 14mm hole gave you a decent workout, especially in such an awkward place.
Take a look at MSC-direct. They are on the I-70 frontage road, Stapleton area. Presuming you still need a solution. I had something similar on my tractor loader frame. Ended up on a similar path of greater awareness. A mobile welder had me get some grade 5 coupling nuts (sourcing these is how I came to find MSC). MSC delivered to my door (none were in stock): ordered Friday at 5pm, at my house on Monday. Keep in mind for the future. He hogged the (blind) holes out, rounded the nuts, then welded them in place. Obviously a slightly different solution, but you could do something similar with SAE bolts (yeah, you might find metric ones, but keep the hardening in mind). Another source: AAA Metric off of I-25.
Oh, and if you ever have to change the slip in 1/2 shaft on this truck, you must pull it absolutely straight out (no angle) to get it to pop out.
Hope you fixed it for good. This would be a good choice as a snow plow rig for your new place. You wouldn't be out anything.
Oh, and if you ever have to change the slip in 1/2 shaft on this truck, you must pull it absolutely straight out (no angle) to get it to pop out.
Hope you fixed it for good. This would be a good choice as a snow plow rig for your new place. You wouldn't be out anything.
OP
dhagood
Silver Member
the pathfinder is as fixed as it's going to get. i worked on doing the front end alignment myself just for giggles. the toe is no particular problem once i figured out that the rear track is narrower than the front track. the camber i could directly measure, but i had no way to measure the caster without buying an expensive tool that i would use every other decade. i finally bit the bullet and had it aligned, and all the miscreant bolt is holding torque quite nicely for the moment. it's back on the road and earning its keep.
i knew about aaa metric, but not about msc-direct. thanks for the tip.
i knew about aaa metric, but not about msc-direct. thanks for the tip.
mjncad
Super Member
I used to buy quite a bit from MSC-Direct online until they "improved" their website a few years back. I never went to the local stores since they aren't convenient to my lazy self. I always end up back at McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr as they have what I need, and in my opinion the best and easiest website for shopping.
Another local (Denver) fastener place I've bought stuff from is Hi-Strength Bolt on 62nd and North Washington.
OP
dhagood
Silver Member
aaaarrggggh. a couple of days ago i noticed a pretty good plume of white smoke from my wife's volvo as she drove off on some errands. when she got back, i pulled the dipstick and sure enough, there is antifreeze getting into the engine oil (and the combustion chamber, which gives you the white smoke out of the exhaust). so now i have to replace the head gasket, but getting 160,000 miles out of a turbocharged head gasket isn't too terrible. so now my wife will drive the pathfinder i just got fixed and i will keep driving my gmc k1500 pickup truck. working on the volvo will have to wait until after i replace the timing belt on my daughter's audi a4, and then my wife will drive the audi and i'll go back to driving the pathfinder. then it will be the front end rebuild on my k1500 pickup truck. it's a good thing i'm unemployed...
(i think).
(i think).
mikehaugen
Elite Member
I too, like McMaster, but I hate how they don't tell you what you are getting. I have gotten enough from them to know a few things, for instance their "premium" wrenches are armstrong usually, etc.
ain't life grand!
RandyT
Elite Member
It sounds like you have had a week of the shop murphy. That is when you break more crap than you fix, and usually last about a week to 10 days.
mjncad
Super Member
Talk about crap luck with the vehicles!
I agree about the lack of brand names listed in the McMaster catalog being frustrating at times; but I've found the selection and ability to easily get what I want outweighs the frustration. I've bought taps from McMaster and was pleasantly surprised to see they are Greenfield Tap & Die products.
I agree about the lack of brand names listed in the McMaster catalog being frustrating at times; but I've found the selection and ability to easily get what I want outweighs the frustration. I've bought taps from McMaster and was pleasantly surprised to see they are Greenfield Tap & Die products.
OP
dhagood
Silver Member
not really. the newest vehicle we own is a 2002 with 110,000 miles on it. things are bound to start going wrong when vehicles get that old/have that many miles behind them. the vehicles i have mentioned in this thread are a 95 pathfinder with 170,000 miles, a 95 gmc sierra with 130,000 miles, a 98 audi with 180,000 miles, and a 98 volvo with 160,000 miles. all the repair items mentioned are normal wear and tear items except for the volvo head gasket, and that would last longer if i didn't like to keep the boost up :thumbsup:
what irritates me about this kind of thing is how the breakdowns always seem to happen at once.
mikehaugen
Elite Member
You sound about like me, I got an '03 impala with about 190k, a '96 ram with 160k, and a '97 suburban with 200k. Even with the odds and ends repairs once in a while it is still cheaper than a $600-$800/month payment to me anyway. Although the truck is getting cancer pretty bad.
mjncad
Super Member
That's what I was referring too...the bad timing of all these things happening at once.
