Bridge and more, help and suggestions.

[paintman161]

As for the steel girders, clean the dirt away from the ends and don't worry about them. They'll still be there and plenty strong in 100 years.

For the decking on top, if you plan to run boards length wise as a top layer, I wouldn't be putting the 8x8 that close together unless you only run the lengthwise boards on the tire track areas. If you fully deck the top with 2x or thicker lumber, if it were mine, I'd leave a 12" or so between the 8x8s. Only leaving 3/4" of an inch will certainly make for a stronger bridge but will also be way overbuilt than need be for a CUT and foot traffic.

The shim idea mentioned above, while a neat idea, to me seems like WAY more work than what it's worth. If you are concerned about water sitting on the deck boards, make sure you install them with the grain of the wood like a U (look at the end grain) When wood dries, the growth rings try to straighten out giving a slight crown on the top of the board shedding the water. If you install them with the grain like an upside down U, they may dry to hold water, but not much.

If you run one of the 8x8 extra long every 6 or 8 feet sticking a couple feet out each side it will allow for bracing of sides/handrails without impacting traffic on the bridge

Thank you for the idea, gotta keep cost down some too. Your idea makes sense and yes i did plan on running either the 8x8 longer every few feet or just a 2x8 longer for support for the railing.

 

[Bladehauler]

If you have been driving across it as it is and your on a budget, I would lay rough sawn lumber in the tire tracks, coat them with 50/50 use motor oil and diesel and use it. Its held 1000s of tons of rail traffic should be good for several more with only atv and a small tractor once a year

 

[CliffordK]

Make sure you keep some kind of curb along the edges.

How close are the beams to the with of your vehicles?

If you are planning on doing lengthwise 2x planks, perhaps you could choose the best RR ties, and alternate new and old. But, as mentione above, it is quite likely that as soon as you start inspecting the old ties, you will discover they are in much worse shape than they look.

 

[mjncad]

Dam, that's an old bridge with the riveted construction. I wouldn't trust the ties due the age and your moist climate.

 

[paintman161]

I do plan on putting a curb and railings since i do have kids. I think i was able to find some railroad ties, and will be doing them every other one so i will have a spacing of about 8", and i will replace them all for sure (not taking any chances with the old ones). For the decking i will most likely get Larch 2x10 rough cut. The bridge was built in 1911, not sure how old the railroad ties are though. As far as the beam spacing i am not sure but they look close to the tractor width, most likely the with of the truck wheels on a train.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

X2 or x4 on the ties, ( i lost count) Dont burn those old ties either! If your feeling really ambitious a coat of paint on that metal would do wonders for longevity if not no big deal. The culverts present a much more interesting situation. While I agree that packing dirt over top of them should give you a decent bridge, by the looks of things the culverts are undersized since they appear to have been overtopped at one point. The best thing to do would be to fill back in around the culverts with whatever material is handy and then reinforce the crossing as best as you can and money allows. The better you make it, the less time you will have to spend on repairs. I'm not saying that it will fail instantly, but rising waters have tremendous power and can wash away mountains if given the chance. The beside thing I can think of would be some of that heavy geo grid. Think fishnets, covered by the biggest stones you can find on the upstream side. In a perfect world some concrete would be in order and you would never have to worry about it again.



In short, your money and your time are the only things limiting your project! simple and cheap means future repairs, complex and expensive means a lighter wallet but lots of tractor time! Either way, the forum loves pictures!

 

[radioman]

First - I'd replace the ties completely. Second 8 by 8 might be overkill unless you plan to carry heavier stuff.pt 4x8 should be plenty for a tractor. The culverts looks like its been uplifted at one end due to the grass caught on the end. I'd be pulling them out and clean it up. you may need to put a mixed size sharp rocks on the bottom to put culvert on top of to level it off. I'd then would put culvert in and cover with mixed size sharp rocks so it can catch and lock in. I would not use crusher run since its too small to handle to water current and stay. Put heavy rip rap on size esp. on upstream side

 

[Dr Dave]

If you hit the ties with a large hammer, you can hear the difference between good and bad. Replace any bad ties and call it good. Do not deck over ties, this will hold water, dirt, leaves and decrease the life, of ties and overlay. On the culverts, use crushed concrete, or jagged stone, so it will lock together, rip rap on the sides. This looks like some great property, and some fun projects.

Dave

 

[L355SS]

Make an overflow trough/creek bed (10-12' wide and a foot or two below the finished height of the fill over the culverts) on one or the other side of the culverts to direct the high water away from the culverts and prevent another washout. The trough should be heavily rip-rapped with large stone, or broken concrete but smooth enough to accommodate vehicle travel.
Dennis

 

[paintman161]

I was able to find free railroad ties, apparently it is illegal to sell them. I am going to use the 8x8 since that is what is there and heck they are free. Also i will be putting deck over it as this will be a main bridge for walking on too.

Also i think i may find another culvert to add to the other two just for insurance. I am thinking big rocks, broekn up concrete is my best bet here.