Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Got a chance to take a look, found a hole in the side of the engine block right behind/next to the starter
If it didn't take out the cam & crank, throw in a new liner kit, stitch 'er up and away ya go again.
:thumbsup:
nortrac dozer need help with a repair
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If it didn't take out the cam & crank, throw in a new liner kit, stitch 'er up and away ya go again.
:thumbsup:
Teg I think I found a picture.
Bob Rocks; How hard of a job is it to redue the engine. I noticed a kit was around $1500.00. I don't know that much about diesels but am mechanically inclined even rebuilt a couple of automatic transmissions{on a jeep and chevy} before. It looks like there are only about 6-8 bolts that hold the whole engine hydraulic pump assembly to the machine. Once those are out it looks to be just a matter of unhooking hoses cables wires...... then lifting the unit out{wonder what the weight is???}. I really enjoyed running the machine and like the simplicity of it. It needs some other work maybe a total of $2000.00 IF{big if} I can find parts????????
Bob Rocks; How hard of a job is it to redue the engine. I noticed a kit was around $1500.00. I don't know that much about diesels but am mechanically inclined even rebuilt a couple of automatic transmissions{on a jeep and chevy} before. It looks like there are only about 6-8 bolts that hold the whole engine hydraulic pump assembly to the machine. Once those are out it looks to be just a matter of unhooking hoses cables wires...... then lifting the unit out{wonder what the weight is???}. I really enjoyed running the machine and like the simplicity of it. It needs some other work maybe a total of $2000.00 IF{big if} I can find parts????????
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Bob Rooks
Elite Member
I was being a little facetious, but actually it wouldn't be all that difficult. The old Detroit Diesel 6-71N's have permutated since 1938, and they are "a dime-a-dozen" on the world market. You can probably pick up a re-man long block for around $5,000, or a complete good used engine for around $3,500.
Ironically, a lot of the older heavy equipment was manufactured from off-the-shelf parts, so you would be looking for different brand names in a lot of cases.
Well I finally got a chance to look at the excavator and figured what engine it has 6V53, revs higher then other detroits 2800rpm. It looks like a 5.9 cummins may also be a good stand in.
Of course now I have other issue's that came to be. I had a gut feeling that this might happen but was hoping it wouldn't. I was using the dozer to pull trailer loads of dirt away from the pond. The loads weren't very heavy 5000lbs +or- and the terrain is easy going. On the last load of dirt for this year{winter is comming} the dozer only wanted to go right. Quess what happened..........................the other driveshaft broke. I figure it was probably tweaked when the left side broke but I was hoping I'd be wrong.
Of course now I have other issue's that came to be. I had a gut feeling that this might happen but was hoping it wouldn't. I was using the dozer to pull trailer loads of dirt away from the pond. The loads weren't very heavy 5000lbs +or- and the terrain is easy going. On the last load of dirt for this year{winter is comming} the dozer only wanted to go right. Quess what happened..........................the other driveshaft broke. I figure it was probably tweaked when the left side broke but I was hoping I'd be wrong.
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Back in the day when I thought no engine could scream worse than a 71 series, they introduced the 53 series (there was also a short-lived 51 and 110 series).
Anything that meets flywheel housing size, power, and space constraints will work. The 6V-53's are also very abundant.
I'll make a mental note that when one of my sprocket drive shafts break, I'll replace both of them. Sorry to hear that.
Anything that meets flywheel housing size, power, and space constraints will work. The 6V-53's are also very abundant.
I'll make a mental note that when one of my sprocket drive shafts break, I'll replace both of them. Sorry to hear that.
Back in the day when I thought no engine could scream worse than a 71 series, they introduced the 53 series (there was also a short-lived 51 and 110 series).
Anything that meets flywheel housing size, power, and space constraints will work. The 6V-53's are also very abundant.
I'll make a mental note that when one of my sprocket drive shafts break, I'll replace both of them. Sorry to hear that.
I just had that gut feeling about the dozer when I got it back up and running. Atleast this time I was able to get it next to the garage, closer to the tools
. The shafts breaking are completly my fault for pushing the little dozer harder then it should ever have been. I still feel it was money well spent and is very strong for what it is.As far as the excavator goes I'm thinking about replacing the 3 pumps and engine. I'd have to rev the old detroit allmost full throttle to get things to move, so I figure the pumps may be worn??? I'd like something that doesn't scream so bad plus fuel usage was horrible.
lawfisher
New member
Hi guys, as usual I'm late for the party but I'm wondering if I have the same problem with my Nortrac 3500 dozer. The left side drive doesn't work, I think I broke something when I was trying to remove a big stump and was working it a little too hard. So, is something like this typically a broken axle? A friend of mine works on the Chinese "wheeled" tractors and has researched this a bit and is fairly sure the problem is a broken shear pin.
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
:welcome: :welcome:
Not sure where your friend did his research but there are no shear pins in the final drives, nor in the steering clutches or bevel gears. Everything is splined. Wish it were that simple.
When you say "it doesn't work", what does that mean? Do you not have any power to the left side at all, meaning it will go in left circles when you release the clutch? Or do you mean it will not steer to the left, meaning the left steering clutch and brake have no effect? Your issue may be a burned up steering clutch or a broken pinion shaft. Either way, you'll have to block it up, drop the left track, and remove the sprocket and final drive assembly - piece by piece. If it turns out to be the steering clutch, you will have to remove the ROPS and maybe the left saddlebag.
lawfisher
New member
Thanks Bob, I appreciate your input. Yes, there's no power to the left side at all, like you said it goes around in circles real well! Sounds like I need to get wrenching. I'm in the process of ordering a parts manual (apparently there is no service manual) through circle G. So what is the ROPS and the "saddlebag"?:thumbsup: