Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

[Obed]

Almost everyone agrees that #57 stone is 85% - 95% self-compacting. I take that to mean it will compact, but not enough to make a difference in typical residential construction. Once the slab is placed on top, there isn't enough force or vibration to make it settle. In that regard, Eddie's statement that it is a "feel good" step makes sense. Do it if it makes you feel good, but the end result won't differ.

Dave,
I have wondered how much settling would occur with a slab sitting on top of the gravel. I hope not much. The gravel under our basement slab was not compacted other than driving my tractor around on the gravel. We've been in our house 2 years; our basement slab hasn't shown any cracks. Of course, noticeable settling might take years.

Obed

 

[dstig1]

I helped my friend remodel and add on to his house several years back. The addition was L-shaped, and actually cut into the garage a few feet, where it met the house. The excavator cut through the garage slab to add new foundation walls, and it was quite interesting to see how much the fill below had settled over 20 years since it was built. The slab was floating in air in spots. One doesn't often get that kind of a view below a slab, so it was very interesting to us... Was it filled properly or not? No clue...

One more point on the exhaust fans. Ideally use rigid metal duct work, and only use a short section of flex where needed. And pitch it so any condensation runs outside, not in. Seal all seams too (long seams on top or at least in the upper half - not on the bottom). Flex has a ton of pressure drop vs smooth metal duct, and it is also impossible to pitch properly so you will get pools of condensate in spots.

 

[pacerron]

Just out of morbid curiosity I googled "compacting #57 stone" last night. It is a long-discussed topic in construction apparently. Sort of like R1's vs R4's :laughing:

In your case Obed, some would claim that the stone was not compacted, the soil beneath it was, and the stone was integrated into the soil surface. But, most believe a jumping jack is the correct tool to be used for soil compaction, not a plate vibrator.

Almost everyone agrees that #57 stone is 85% - 95% self-compacting. I take that to mean it will compact, but not enough to make a difference in typical residential construction. Once the slab is placed on top, there isn't enough force or vibration to make it settle. In that regard, Eddie's statement that it is a "feel good" step makes sense. Do it if it makes you feel good, but the end result won't differ.

They did plate compact the stone footing for the pre-cast walls in Pete's house. I guess technically, from the bit of reading I did, they should have used a jumping jack compactor on the soil first, then spread the stone and plate compacted that a bit. It does help level the stone and tighten it up.

People have run into problems with un-compacted #57 in commercial projects like highways, but that is a whole different environment and set of challenges.

Anyways, it is an interesting topic.

The slab ties that were previously bent straight down so people could work in there ended up below the level of gravel fill. They have now been bent up
out of the gravel for the slab pour. These guys are trying to do a good job.

 

[pclausen]

Went back over to see if the electricians had a chance to mount the transfer switch and run the main cable down to the basement panel location, but they had knocked off for the day. This crazy spring weather! It started snowing a few hours ago. I decided to go ahead and "compact" the garage using the wife's 4Runner.

When I left the snow had started to stick.

A little over an hour later, it is really starting to accumulate.

Talked to the builder and he confirmed that the insulation foam guys will spray the area above the Superior Walls and that hangers will be installed everywhere on the deck framing, etc. He also agreed that the bath vents should be rerouted. The electricians didn't know any better he said. I'll be sure to mention to him that they ductwork be rigid and curve towards the outside.

 

[pclausen]

Here are some pictures of our under cabinent lights.

Thanks Obed. I'll be sure the cabinet lights are installed towards the front. Will probably also ask him to run wire to under each cabinet so that we're covered regardless of which lighting we end up with.

 

[pacerron]

Pete,
Is the skylight in the sun room still a go or is the lean to greenhouse supposed to take its place?
Ron

 

[pacerron]

Will the open area in the roof trussing between the garage and the house require a fire stop?
The ceiling of the garage will need insulated if the roof area is left open. You may be going to insulate,
PB, and heat the garage anyway.

 

[pclausen]

I discussed that quite a bit with mom, and we decided not to do the lean to greenhouse so as to not complicate, and put at risk, getting the house done by 5/1. Besides, a 4x8 would be very small, but about all that would have worked on the deck. Instead, we will put in a free standing greenhouse sometime later, probably in the fall. So a pair of skylights are still a go. In fact, I spoke to the builder about that today, and he'll get those ordered to be sure they get installed before they start finishing the inside ceilings.

Electrician will also run a conduit up inside the cimney frame for TV, Sattellite and Wireless Internet antenna runs. This will be much cleaner than running those on the outside. There will be a number of conduit drops into the basement from various places in the house for speaker, network and coax runs. Also, the electronics for the TV, whole house music and media sharing, will be recessed flush in the wall in the living room. Kinda a scaled down version of my system in the basement, which looks like this:

 

[pacerron]

I discussed that quite a bit with mom, and we decided not to do the lean to greenhouse so as to not complicate, and put at risk, getting the house done by 5/1. Besides, a 4x8 would be very small, but about all that would have worked on the deck. Instead, we will put in a free standing greenhouse sometime later, probably in the fall. So a pair of skylights are still a go. In fact, I spoke to the builder about that today, and he'll get those ordered to be sure they get installed before they start finishing the inside ceilings.

Sounds very wise. The 4 x 8 greenhouse wouldn't have much usable space with the sliding door and it would probably be in the shade a lot.
She might even tend to leave the sliding door open to keep the plants warm and corrupt your heating and cooling program.
You must have your internet fixed:dance1:

 

[pclausen]

Will the open area in the roof trussing between the garage and the house require a fire stop?
The ceiling of the garage will need insulated if the roof area is left open. You may be going to insulate,
PB, and heat the garage anyway.

The garage will be insulated and have drywall put up. Wasn't planning on heating it, but maybe it would not be a bad idea to at least run a duct or two to it, and then just leave the vents closed? Would hardly add any cost I would think.