Grading new land.

   / Grading new land. #1  

paintman161

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2012
Messages
107
Location
Rochester, NY
Tractor
Ford 1900
So I am getting prices for grading a new driveway, pole barn pad and digging out a pond (fill dirt). So far I have gotten price of 15K and 16K. They are going to stripe the topsoil off of the driveway area and pole barn pad (save for leach field) and use the fill from the pond to build them back up. Both said they did not price in gravel for a base for the driveway and it should be fine for driving on. The driveway will only be used couple times a month, until the house is built in 2014, then i planned on having the driveway finished off.
My other option is getting the base gravel only and spreading it on the driveway myself then do the final layer after the house is done.
Would i be wasting my time and money putting any gravel on the driveway before the house is built? I am worried about the heavy trucks driving on it and and pushing the stone into the ground when we build the house (using Superior walls so they use a heavy crane too). The ground is mainly clay.

Suggestions?
 
   / Grading new land. #2  
If your trying to save the stone, the only good way of doing it is with geo-textile that I am aware of. I'm sure someone will chime in here eventually but it can cut your stone costs down dramatically. Its not the cheapest thing going but its well worth the price when a load of stone is so expensive. We use it alot for our locations that handle 80k+ trucks regularly to cut down on the amount of stone needed. Your other option would be to use some bigger stone like 6" minus and build a base, then when the heavy truck traffic is done, spread some 2b on it to seal it up and compact it for a good strong road. What kind of sub-base are you working with?
 
   / Grading new land.
  • Thread Starter
#3  
If your trying to save the stone, the only good way of doing it is with geo-textile that I am aware of. I'm sure someone will chime in here eventually but it can cut your stone costs down dramatically. Its not the cheapest thing going but its well worth the price when a load of stone is so expensive. We use it alot for our locations that handle 80k+ trucks regularly to cut down on the amount of stone needed. Your other option would be to use some bigger stone like 6" minus and build a base, then when the heavy truck traffic is done, spread some 2b on it to seal it up and compact it for a good strong road. What kind of sub-base are you working with?

I was worried about the geotextile getting ruined with the heavy trucks as well, we have about 14" of fine sandy loam and then 14-32" we have a silty clay loam and 32"-48" we have gravelly loam.
 
   / Grading new land. #4  
The first thing you need is that driveway . You need fabric and rock . Keep it above grade so it will drain . Without a driveway you will regret ever starting .
 
   / Grading new land. #5  
+1^
i'd recommend at least a partial driveway (nice and wide) for your/contractor's use. we opted to wait until the house was built to nail down the drive, had the approach built with culvert in ditch for easy access to the plot, but nothing else. since moving in a month ago, and for the prior three months getting to the structure during its build, I've been slipping/sliding and rutting out the clay "yard". we park 50 feet from the door due to the drainage/mud issues surrounding the clay/dirt (built on a slope, too).
when it dries, which looks like at least mid-June, i'll start the same process as you, and while it will be more exact due to the known footprint of the house and new appreciation for the drainage/flow of the slopes, I wish we would've done some of this work before to allow more convenient access.
 
   / Grading new land.
  • Thread Starter
#6  
The first thing you need is that driveway . You need fabric and rock . Keep it above grade so it will drain . Without a driveway you will regret ever starting .

This is why i am getting price on the drive and pole barn pad at the same time. I am thinking of just doing may the larger stone, and skip the fabric, then later when we install the final driveway we will install the fabric and put the stone on top of that.
 
   / Grading new land. #7  
Paintman,

I put in a gravel base last year south of you in Warsaw. This is what I did, dish out the topsoil, roll out fabric and dump gravel (bank run), spread to a depth of 14". The trucks were able to back in on top of what I had just spread out with no problems at all. Below the top soil was clay, with a high water table. The fabric will stabilize the driveway base for years to come. When I get done with the site work I plan on topping with crushed limestone to make it "nice". If you want more details check out the link in my signature below. As always you are welcome to Message me with any questions.
 
   / Grading new land.
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Paintman,

I put in a gravel base last year south of you in Warsaw. This is what I did, dish out the topsoil, roll out fabric and dump gravel (bank run), spread to a depth of 14". The trucks were able to back in on top of what I had just spread out with no problems at all. Below the top soil was clay, with a high water table. The fabric will stabilize the driveway base for years to come. When I get done with the site work I plan on topping with crushed limestone to make it "nice". If you want more details check out the link in my signature below. As always you are welcome to Message me with any questions.

Yep i did read it fully, i grew upmjust south of warsaw, so i am familar with that area went to Letchworth schools. I was reading that younused bank run for a base how did that hold up? Thinking it will be cheaper to start with.
 
   / Grading new land. #9  
Paint,

The bank run has done well, it did get a bit "muddy" on top when the snow was melting. I expected that though, that's why I am planning on topping with the crushed limestone down the road. I can drive my tractor on it and only leave minor impressions from the AG tires (tractor weighs 9200lbs.). I had a roll-off dumpster truck on it twice around Easter weekend and it only left a 1" impression in the driveway. Considering it is just a base and not the finished topcoat I am quite happy. The price was much better then using all limestone, about 60% less in material. Hope this helps.
 
   / Grading new land.
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Paint,

The bank run has done well, it did get a bit "muddy" on top when the snow was melting. I expected that though, that's why I am planning on topping with the crushed limestone down the road. I can drive my tractor on it and only leave minor impressions from the AG tires (tractor weighs 9200lbs.). I had a roll-off dumpster truck on it twice around Easter weekend and it only left a 1" impression in the driveway. Considering it is just a base and not the finished topcoat I am quite happy. The price was much better then using all limestone, about 60% less in material. Hope this helps.

thanks i will look into bank run, driveway is 800' long so need to get it low as possible.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2003 International 4300 Flatbed Truck w/ Liftgate - Inoperable - 7.6L DT466 Diesel Engine (A52748)
2003 International...
2025 12V Diesel Pump, Hose And Nozzle (A50323)
2025 12V Diesel...
2016 Ford F-450 Crew Cab Knapheide Service Truck (A50323)
2016 Ford F-450...
2012 Freightliner Cascadia - Class 8, 6x4, Detroit DD13 (A52748)
2012 Freightliner...
1987 LANDALL 48ft Hydraulic Slide Axle T/A Drop Deck Trailer (A51692)
1987 LANDALL 48ft...
12in Backhoe Bucket (A52748)
12in Backhoe...
 
Top