Polaris Magnum 325 4 wheeler. 4x4

[Fastowl]

I never shut mine off either. i wouldn't replace the whole carburator; you certainly don't need to replace the housing/bowl/etc. I would keep experimenting, maybe talk to a dealer or if you have some local friends that are knowledgeble and go from there. Again a carburator rebuild is pretty easy, just replace stuff the same way you took it apart. Make sure you get the gaskets in properly. The worse case you get to take it apart and do it again and you gain lots of practicle experience at a very low tuition. And if it works then you have pride of solving the problem on your own.

 

[cdaigle430]

I never shut mine off either. i wouldn't replace the whole carburator; you certainly don't need to replace the housing/bowl/etc. I would keep experimenting, maybe talk to a dealer or if you have some local friends that are knowledgeble and go from there. Again a carburator rebuild is pretty easy, just replace stuff the same way you took it apart. Make sure you get the gaskets in properly. The worse case you get to take it apart and do it again and you gain lots of practicle experience at a very low tuition. And if it works then you have pride of solving the problem on your own.

Try a little sea foam to clean out the combustion system and fuel system-and I would start using an Ethanol Additive. In the future I would not only shut the fuel valve off but also let it rund out of gas.

 

[cdaigle430]

On line a new carb I found tonight was about $400. Kits were under $50 but floats alone were over $50.

It is best to shut off the fuel after every use of a Polaris? I seldom shut off any fuel tanks on anything we own.

Yes-the owners manual will also say this. In theory needle and seat could possibly get stuck open and flood engine with gas. When you do shut it off for weeks at a time, add fuel additive and run the machine until it dies. That will remove most of the fuel left in the bowl.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

We will clean out the tank when we pull it to look for top end source of slight motor oil leak. We just burned out the first 3 gallons of gas and it contained about 9 oz of Sea Foam. I can see fine grain trash in the bottom of the tank so I expect it was what the Sea Foam cut off the inside of the tank. The same thing may have happened in the carb making the idle less stable. The new fuel filter should be here later this week. When the tank is clean and there is a new fuel filter then the carb may clear up in time with Sea Foam. It may be junk in and junk out at this time.

When we filled the empty tank the day we bought it the gas out of the pump was at a very high pressure and may have blasted 10-12 years of junk loose too.Again we will start at the tank and work our way down to the carb cleaning the fuel system. It got worse when it ran out of gas and turned on the reserve. Naturally the trash to gas ratio shot up when it was only in the bottom of the tank.

Again cleaning the fuel system from top down is a must since we do not know the history of this machine. Heavy Sea Foam use is a good way to stop up a fuel filter since it cleans the gas tank of years of varnish build up.

 

[clemsonfor]

While we do not have the EBS I can stimulate it to some degree. I think with EBS it was a few hundred more new.

Since it ran out of gas when we did the test ride after about 10 minute I filled it with Shell V-Power on the way home and put about nine oz of Sea Foam with the three gallons of gas. I see some fine trash in the groves in the bottom of the tank. Besides the Sea Foam cleaning the tank I think the three gallon fill at full pressure may have knocked some varnish from inside the tank.

Anyway it is running stronger and if we have burned most of it out I will refill with fresh gas and the remaining Sea Foam in the tank will be enough to stabilize the gas. While it runs OK it is hard to judge how well it is running/smoking with that 3x dose of Sea Foam. From a standing idle it will take a wide open throttle jab without any hesitation so that is good.
.

Thats why i like my manal geared HOnda. The engine is always connected and it will engine brake every time you let off the gas. You just have to switch gears, but i like that effect more than the varialbe belt trans. I guess its the same as i like a stick shift truck for every thing but towing, esp up hills.


As for the smoking and varnish/trash. Seafoam will disolve any varnish in carbs or tank. The trash you see is most likely a result of what was in the gas cans that filled the atv or trash up under the cap that fell in when taking it off to fill it or stuff blowing in there. There is a strainer or filter in the petcock of most 4wheelers that keeps that stuff in the tank. I put an additional filter inline before my carb just cause i found all kinds of trash in the bowl when i rebuilt my carb when i bought my atv. As far as smoking you will not see any with just 9 ozs in 3 gallons? I have put that much in 1 gallon and cant see any smoke? If your seeing smoke i think its from another reason not the seafoam?

 

[clemsonfor]

The honda reserve system is a sliding shaft with a straw that pull out of the tank and various levels from inside a metal screen. Sounds complicated but think of it this way, it pulls on normal untill there is 2"s or so of fuel left, swap the valve and it lowers the tube so that the last few inches of gas can be sucked up. That trash is plugging the screen that is a verticle shaft on a honda so when the fuel is lower is pulling from a partial amount of the screen at some point and that restricts the flow. I have never worked on a polaris so im not sure how they work.

Hondas carbs are a bear to get to!!!

The honda kits i think are like $30 to rebuild and they take 15 mins once you figure out how to pull the carb and contort your hands. The first time it toook me 1 hour to pull it, i can now do it in 15-20 mins or less. Just what has to come off and how it does is what took me so long to learn. Getting your air or fuel screw (depending upon which you have) is what will take the most finess. I can buy a brand new chineese carb for my 1989 honda 300trx for right around $100. I had to replace my fuel petcock as it was leaking, got a chineese replacement of ebay for $20 or less if i remember right. Ebay is your friend for cheap ATV parts.

But that trash you see in the tank SHOULD not be making it to the carb, maybe really fine pieces, i mean really fine could be in there, but most of that stuff will stay in the tank forever.

If your not running 100% gas and running any amont of Ethonol content I WOULD cut the fuel off and let it run dry. That ethonol leaves funny deposits in carbs that resemble sand and will plug orfaces and stick needles to the seats. Trust me i have seen in in several things.

That said i will only put real gas in my 4wheeler and do not cut the fuel off unless i think about it when i am trailering it so that it will not flow back into the cylinder when it goes over bumps or if the float gets stuck while its on the trailer.

My atv does not flood out while running or sitting. Did when i got it though.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I got the Polaris factory service manual in mail today and now have to unlearn the junk info I have learned from the web.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

We got the Magnum peeled down and gas tank removed, flushed and externally washed. One of the valve adjusting port plastic caps was so loose I could remove it with my hand and I am sure the O-rings are bone hard. Due to the oil build up I expect that was the source of the oil that made smoke come out from under the gas tank when it was shut off hot after high RPM run.

There is some oil/dust build up on the head and downward so we will clean it up while the tank and carb is off. The boot that connects the carb to the head was bone hard and some cracks are showing but may not be all the way through just yet so it is a good time to replace that boot. Some gas lines are OEM and they are really soft so we will go back with new lines too.

Skinning it took some time for the kids to do but I stayed out of it for the most part because it is a shop project for them to get hands on.

Now coming up with the parts are a reasonable price.

 

[clemsonfor]

again check ebay for your kits and wear parts. The boot will have to ocme from an OEM dealer unless its that cheap and wears out you might find and aftermarket on ebay, but not sure on that. On Hondas they have either a hardish or thickish rubber boot/intake that connects the head to the carb and its not that soft but yours may be similar just suffering severe cracks.

Ebay on the kits and such will save you good money. You can get the names like "Moose" too which is a big name in aftermarkiet in the bike/atv world.


I forget the carb kit brand i used, but used moose to rebuild the brake master cyl, and now need to rebuild one of the wheel cylinders on the front and will get a moose kit for that. I cant beleive that a wheel cyl kit is like $28!!!! This is to rebuild it!~ I am use to buying wheel cyls for cars adn trucks for $10, and kits are like $4-8!!

 

[Gale Hawkins]

The closest Polaris dealer (40 miles) said the carb to head boot was $48 but not in stock. There is a new one on Ebay for a different Polaris engine but looks like the same that I may try or just run with the current one since the crack is not all the way through yet. I think the current one is after market because it has no markings/numbers.

May try to take O-rings under plugs to check valve lashing to NAPA. All the local store has for ATV is oil/air filters and spark plugs but did get some new fuel line and other hoses this morning.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

About Partzilla.com

" At Partzilla.com, we guarantee you will enjoy the lowest prices on powersports parts, motorcycles, ATVs, personal watercraft, scooters and more. We are among the largest powersports parts dealer in the U.S. where you will find discounts up to 80% off of MSRP. At Partzilla.com, you will find all of the top manufactures whose names you have come to depend on. We sell Yamaha, Honda, Polaris and Kawasaki OEM parts."

I have placed an order so soon I will know if they are as good as they sound. Even if you do not need parts their website may be of interest because it is set up to order by looking at OEM exploded view of the parts themselves and you order by matching numbers. The carb boot that was $48 and 40 miles away and not in stock was $20. I think I ordered six items and it was like $60+ which triggered the min FedEx ground charge that is just under $10. Orders that are over $250 ship free. I will report my results with the source of OEM parts for ATV, bikes, water craft, etc

 

[clemsonfor]

About Partzilla.com

I have placed an order so soon I will know if they are as good as they sound. Even if you do not need parts their website may be of interest because it is set up to order by looking at OEM exploded view of the parts themselves and you order by matching numbers.

All of the websites have those parts diagrams and exploded views. I think when they sell OEM parts or are a "authorized" dealer for the OEM parts they get use of those diagrams. I looked at half a dozen sites when i was looking for ATV parts they all have those diagrams that i found and they all seem to be within 10% of each other, with shipping options and thier markup making the final difference in order totals (also some are cheaper adn have cheaper shipping but will hit you with a "handeling" fee that makes them just as expensive or more than the other places, so watch who you order from).

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Got some feedback to give on sites that work for you?

 

[Gale Hawkins]

The kids got the ATV skin off and have cleaned it up and will be painting any rusty spots whole it is stripped. We finally got the keeper pin out of the front prop shaft and got it removed and the four internal keepers out of one end but the cups are stuck in the yokes tight. It got late so we went to town since I promised if we got the pin knocked and the shaft removed. Not sure if I will order parts on line or go to NAPA, etc and see if they can get the correct

Since we are replacing most all rubber we pulled the oil cooler while the lines were off. The 6+ oz of oil in was really dirty but I expect someone was changing the oil and never draining the oil cooler. It will get flushed well while it is off.

I forgot we did get the valves adjusted from .020 thousandth's back down to spec of .006. Not sure if that will do much for power but at least it will reduce rate of wear due to slop.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Turns out partszillia does not stock Polaris but places the order with Polaris who then ships them to them then they will head my way. I guess that is how they sell them for half of what the local dealer charges who does the same thing. The service rep confirmed through UPS that my order was to be received from Polaris on Friday and depending on when they come in they will head from Atlanta to KY on Friday or Monday.

Had a good day at NAPA. They had the oil line stock in both sizes needed to run to the oil cooler that is good for 315 PSI and I am sure the bypass valve is set close to 300 psi less. The cool part is NAPA part number 338 universal joint replacement is what Polaris Magnum 325 ATV's and a ton of others uses. Three are tight but the two on the front prop shaft were shot but that is not surprising with that large offset they run at. They were $13.39 each but not sure what tier if any discount was in play. I have seen them on the web for as much $40 so one has to be carefully.

 

[clemsonfor]

I ordered from I think "dirt cheap atv parts" or something like that. the communication was excellent and they had parts that i needed for my honda. I ordered an aftermarket air filter that thier site said fit my atv. It didn't and looked installed or attempted at that. They were good and told me just to keep the part and then refunded my money when i decided not to get anything else from them. Very quick on email responses so they were helpfull.

 

[dfkrug]

I ordered from I think "dirt cheap atv parts" or something like that.

I have used them and they were fine. I have bought OEM or aftermarket new parts for all the majors except
BRP in the past year. All were internet sellers, and shipping was less than gas cost to the nearest store.

For Polaris OEM, I last used Leaders Marine (MI) to buy new CVT boots for less than $14 for 2. The rubber
had cracked at only 7 y.o.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Question to the Polaris CVT boots. Do I have to unpin the shaft at the gear box to put on new booths or can I do it with less effort?

After we tried the 4 pound shop hammer the pin in the prop shaft came out just fine but it unnerves me whacking on a shaft in those light weight gear boxes.

 

[dfkrug]

Question to the Polaris CVT boots.

CVT boots are for the Continuously Variable Transmission air vents. I suspect you
are referring to CV (constant velocity) joint boots. Most Polaris machines use the
term "PVT" for CVT. P for Polaris.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

OK. I will check mine PVT boots too.

Do you or others know if I can change the CV boots without removing the front drive axles from the gear box?