5065E 3-Point Hitch Lift Link

   / 5065E 3-Point Hitch Lift Link #11  
Mine locks in fine and isn't wore but is very easy to lift out of the lock position and it seems to bounce or vibrate out over time. I guess it just needs some more grease and dirt to hold it there!
 
   / 5065E 3-Point Hitch Lift Link #12  
Could you guys explain to me how "float " works with 553 FEL? How do you select the float control position and then how does the elevation of bucket respond once there. Brand new JD owner, 1st tractor ever. Thanks
 
   / 5065E 3-Point Hitch Lift Link #13  
Could you guys explain to me how "float " works with 553 FEL? How do you select the float control position and then how does the elevation of bucket respond once there. Brand new JD owner, 1st tractor ever. Thanks

You push the control lever forward like you do when you lower, but give it an extra umph. The handle will lock in a detent. You are now in "float". If you curl the bucket the lift arms will go up, or down on their own. You now have no down pressure, only the weight of the bucket, and arms acting with gravity. To return to normal, just pull the control back, out of the detent.

Bill
 
   / 5065E 3-Point Hitch Lift Link #14  
Is it best to have bucket level (front to back=not curled) when placing in detent?
 
   / 5065E 3-Point Hitch Lift Link #15  
Is it best to have bucket level (front to back=not curled) when placing in detent?

It doesn't matter, as long as you go to float quickly.
Let's say the bucket is rolled in a dump position. If you are slow going into float, you will start lifting the front end off the ground. When you do get into float, the front end will drop to the ground, because you no longer have down pressure.
It my not be a bad idea to have the bucket flat the first time you try this.

When my tractor was brand new, I was surprised how stiff the control was! Going into float required a good push. I was a little worried that I was going to break something. It operates much better now, with around 70hrs on the clock. Still, if I raise and dump at the same time, it will stick in raise sometimes, and continue to go up with my hand off the control.

Best, Bill
 
   / 5065E 3-Point Hitch Lift Link #16  
I would drill a hole just above the adjuster when in locked position and put in a hairpin clip to keep it down.
 
   / 5065E 3-Point Hitch Lift Link #17  
I would drill a hole just above the adjuster when in locked position and put in a hairpin clip to keep it down.

Wouldn't the location of the hole change relative to the lower part if you adjusted it in or out?
 
   / 5065E 3-Point Hitch Lift Link #18  
Wouldn't the location of the hole change relative to the lower part if you adjusted it in or out?

Oops I did not think of that. Bet you are right.
 
   / 5065E 3-Point Hitch Lift Link #19  
Oops I did not think of that. Bet you are right.

I think the idea is good, but it would need to be something that maybe clamped to the rod. It would preform the same function as your pin, but allow for adjustment??

If the nubs were worn down, or if you just were unhappy with the design; how about filing the nubs flat and installing a jam-nut? (nubs? pretty high tech lingo, huh)
If you wanted you could mill the same type of nubs on the jam nut, and not need a wrench to loosen same.

Bill
 
   / 5065E 3-Point Hitch Lift Link #20  
Split a nut of the right size. Cut the jaws of a vise grip pliers so the nut halves fit. Weld the nut to the jaws. If it won't clamp tight, remove some material from inside the nut until it does.
 

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