Mitsubishi D1500 Maintenance questions - NEWBY needs a little help!

[Clyby]

Hello to all. I decided to send an all inclusive message for my needs. I just bought a Mitsubishi D1500 that needs some "catch up maintenance". Anyone who can help me with any or all of these issue would be greatly appreciated!

First I would like to get a parts book and owners manual. My research indicates it maybe hard to get the manuals for this exact model. Is there a US compatible model I need to get the manuals for?

Next question concerns the transmission oil. The previous owner said he used differential oil in the transmission. Valley Power said this is WRONG and that I should use AW46 Tractor Hydraulic Oil, JD Type 303 Special Purpose oil. Who is right and what should I do?

Next, I want to check my wheel differential fluid. I can't tell for sure if this is integrated with the transmission but I don't think it is. There is an upper and lower plug. Is this a separate component and if so, can anyone tell me what fluid it takes?

Finally, I need to get my hands on brake shoes. Any recommendations?

Thanks again!

 

[284 International]

I would start with Valley Power for brake shoes, they seem to have a good reputation. I've never bought anything from them, but they were extremely helpful and friendly the one time I called them about parts. Your brake shoes may not need to be replaced, merely adjusted. There is usually an adjustment clevis on the brake linkage. As well, inside the brake drums, the shoes usually can be flipped as well as switched. If your brakes don't have much play, but are simply ineffective, you may have a leaky seal, in which case new brake pads are a waste of money without fixing the leak.

I don't know about the parts book, diagrams, or owners manual. I've never found one for my D1800. If you find a source for any, I'd be interested in knowing about them. I have read, from Valley Power's pamphlet, that your tractor may be similar/related to the S630 Bull.

I don't know about the D1500 specifically, as you have doubtless noticed...My D1800 (Which I strongly suspect may be the same machine but with a larger output engine) has common transmission and differential lubricant. When you say upper and lower plug, do you mean on the top on and the bottom, or in separate areas of the housing? If there are separate drain plugs, I expect they are separate reservoirs. (Not always true, but possible.) At least some Mitsubishi/Satoh tractors did use separate reservoirs, I understand. I like to run differential oil in differentials, the EP additives seem wise to me in old, likely abused machines, or brand new ones.

If they are not separate reservoirs, in my own machines I run the JD303 equivalent UTF. Believe it or not, once warmed up the differential oil, UTF, engine oil, and gear oil are all quite close in viscosity.



I think the only real trouble is that until it has been worked around and warmed up by the pump, the gear oil is very thick and doesn't like to flow, while hydraulic fluid will flow better before it is warmed up.

The JD303/equivalent lubricants are designed for this application, so seem a good choice.

Make sure to grease everything for which you can find a zerk. The steering box also is lubricated, and are sometimes known to corrode, causing an expensive failure inside. Worse is if water has gotten inside and then freezes. There is also a grease point/points underneath the tractor where the front axle pivots. I use a moly grease, but that is because I am lazy and forgetful: the moly grease is specified for my motorcycles, and doesn't do a worse job for the tractors, automobiles, U-joints in all applications, machine tools etc. This lets me keep a pair of grease guns (a tiny one and a normal one) ready to go, and it can be used on anything requiring a grease gun. I've gone to 5W-40 synthetic engine oil for the same reason: Bikes, boat, cars, tractor all run the same engine oil, so I don't have to remember if I have enough on hand to change the oil in the _____ or not. 15W-40 or even straight weight in the summers have a lot to recommend them, too. As I recall, my D1800 uses a Napa 1334 oil filter. The air filter is the generic cartridge unit, number 2276. If you are able, if these are the correct part numbers, post that info up here, so the next person with the same questions has a single-source reference.

Congrats again on your new tractor.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

...Next question concerns the transmission oil. The previous owner said he used differential oil in the transmission. Valley Power said this is WRONG and that I should use AW46 Tractor Hydraulic Oil, JD Type 303 Special Purpose oil. Who is right and what should I do?...

This can be highly debatable depending on who gets involved. I'm convinced that if you pretty much run *any* oil lubricant you'll be fine. Personally, I've never seen anything fail because of the "wrong lubricant" but I'm sure instances exist and I suppose it probably boils down to a matter of longevity in the end. The bigger problems originate by not having any lubricant at all or getting water/dirt contamination leading to rust/wear and their other associated consequences.

 

[Clyby]

I would start with Valley Power for brake shoes, they seem to have a good reputation. I've never bought anything from them, but they were extremely helpful and friendly the one time I called them about parts. Your brake shoes may not need to be replaced, merely adjusted. There is usually an adjustment clevis on the brake linkage. As well, inside the brake drums, the shoes usually can be flipped as well as switched. If your brakes don't have much play, but are simply ineffective, you may have a leaky seal, in which case new brake pads are a waste of money without fixing the leak.

I don't know about the parts book, diagrams, or owners manual. I've never found one for my D1800. If you find a source for any, I'd be interested in knowing about them. I have read, from Valley Power's pamphlet, that your tractor may be similar/related to the S630 Bull.

I don't know about the D1500 specifically, as you have doubtless noticed...My D1800 (Which I strongly suspect may be the same machine but with a larger output engine) has common transmission and differential lubricant. When you say upper and lower plug, do you mean on the top on and the bottom, or in separate areas of the housing? If there are separate drain plugs, I expect they are separate reservoirs. (Not always true, but possible.) At least some Mitsubishi/Satoh tractors did use separate reservoirs, I understand. I like to run differential oil in differentials, the EP additives seem wise to me in old, likely abused machines, or brand new ones.

If they are not separate reservoirs, in my own machines I run the JD303 equivalent UTF. Believe it or not, once warmed up the differential oil, UTF, engine oil, and gear oil are all quite close in viscosity.

View attachment 327028

I think the only real trouble is that until it has been worked around and warmed up by the pump, the gear oil is very thick and doesn't like to flow, while hydraulic fluid will flow better before it is warmed up.

The JD303/equivalent lubricants are designed for this application, so seem a good choice.

Make sure to grease everything for which you can find a zerk. The steering box also is lubricated, and are sometimes known to corrode, causing an expensive failure inside. Worse is if water has gotten inside and then freezes. There is also a grease point/points underneath the tractor where the front axle pivots. I use a moly grease, but that is because I am lazy and forgetful: the moly grease is specified for my motorcycles, and doesn't do a worse job for the tractors, automobiles, U-joints in all applications, machine tools etc. This lets me keep a pair of grease guns (a tiny one and a normal one) ready to go, and it can be used on anything requiring a grease gun. I've gone to 5W-40 synthetic engine oil for the same reason: Bikes, boat, cars, tractor all run the same engine oil, so I don't have to remember if I have enough on hand to change the oil in the _____ or not. 15W-40 or even straight weight in the summers have a lot to recommend them, too. As I recall, my D1800 uses a Napa 1334 oil filter. The air filter is the generic cartridge unit, number 2276. If you are able, if these are the correct part numbers, post that info up here, so the next person with the same questions has a single-source reference.

Congrats again on your new tractor.

Thanks for the great info! My problem with my brakes is the right side has no adjustment left in it. The left side has plenty. So maybe I can flip them?

On the wheel differential the two plugs are about an inch apart on the lower portion of the reservoir. One is above the other. It appears the upper is a fill plug and and the lower a drain plug, but I don't know..

I think you are correct that the D1500 most closely matches the S630 and if I can't get my hands on the manuals for the D1500 (may not be available in English) I will pursue the S630 manuals.

The NAPA 1334 is the correct oil filter for the tractor. Not sure about the air filter, mine is in good shape.

I appreciate all the input on the grease fittings, I plan to go through the entire tractor and bush hog and get is lubed.

Thanks again!

 

[284 International]

On the wheel differential the two plugs are about an inch apart on the lower portion of the reservoir. One is above the other. It appears the upper is a fill plug and and the lower a drain plug...

My D1800 has a fill port on top of the transmission housing. A mere inch separation doesn't seem like enough difference to accept roughly 3 1/2 gallons of fluid into the reservoir. If that's all you have, though, that's all there is.

As is normal, I agree with Ilikeyourtractor. Clean, well-filtered, and uncontaminated oil is more important than the particular details of what it is normally intended to do. Clean ATF would be much better in your system than water-contaminated hydraulic fluid or differential oil.