Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days

   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #2,271  
Well Jay, as a loyal reader, just because Peter doesn't have anything new to post is no excuse. I need a fix! He could at least make up something. :D

I have really enjoyed following this build. I thank Peter for taking all the time to share with us. I will miss his build as it is coming to an end.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #2,272  
I could not agree more! I get up in the morning and check for updates on all my threads I follow while having my coffee. Maybe he will start another project soon.
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #2,273  
Well, you guys will hate me, but I want to temporarily hijack this thread for my own benefit. The reasons I am doing this are because it has been dead as of late and because so many knowledgeable people check for updates regularly, I figure, for my own selfish reasons, I could kill 2 birds with one stone.

Because it has been hot as heck up here in the DC area, my AC has been running non-stop over the past few days from 11am to 8pm. While I don't know the exact specs, I have a 4 ton outdoor unit and a massive evaporator trying to cool an old single-level 2100 SQ-FT house. This is a 7 year old Carrier top of the line setup.

I think the major part of the problem is because the ducting is in the attic and it is super hot up there. I was thinking of installing 1-2 thermostatically controlled fans. My attic looks like a T shape with ridge vents throughout, no sophit vents, and gable vents on each of the 3 sides of the T.

My question is simple. Can somebody recommend a thermostatically controlled fan that I can install in front at least one of the 3 12x18 gable vents?
-Stu
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #2,274  
Well, you guys will hate me, but I want to temporarily hijack this thread for my own benefit. The reasons I am doing this are because it has been dead as of late and because so many knowledgeable people check for updates regularly, I figure, for my own selfish reasons, I could kill 2 birds with one stone.

Because it has been hot as heck up here in the DC area, my AC has been running non-stop over the past few days from 11am to 8pm. While I don't know the exact specs, I have a 4 ton outdoor unit and a massive evaporator trying to cool an old single-level 2100 SQ-FT house. This is a 7 year old Carrier top of the line setup.

I think the major part of the problem is because the ducting is in the attic and it is super hot up there. I was thinking of installing 1-2 thermostatically controlled fans. My attic looks like a T shape with ridge vents throughout, no sophit vents, and gable vents on each of the 3 sides of the T.

My question is simple. Can somebody recommend a thermostatically controlled fan that I can install in front at least one of the 3 12x18 gable vents?
-Stu

In the true spirit of this thread, rather than answer your question I am going to offer unsolicited advice. You need to add soffit vents. This is not optional. The fans will be far more effective if you can get an airflow from the soffit.

Sorry to rain on your parade but I really feel that you will gain far more by adding those vents than you will with the fan.

I am going to pop some corn now and sit back to watch the show.....

Lee
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #2,275  
Stu,
I agree with Nelson109 that you would be far ahead to install soffit vents if your house has overhangs/soffits. A house of that generation, if it is a ranch style may have plywood soffit material or have been covered over with vinyl?
In either case it would be rather simple to locate the rafters or trusses and cut vent holes for grids that you can buy for that purpose.
You should have 1-2 times the vent area as what is in the ridge vent.
Gable end vents don't work very well and by having a ridge vent in addition you are just short circuiting any air flow into the gable vents and out the ridge. You need to get rid of the heat down at above the ceiling level so the source of input air needs to be at the soffit.

Much cheaper than a fan, and no maintenance. Just be sure the soffit area you put the vents in have any insulation pushed back from there. The job can probably be all done from the outside at a reasonable price, if you don't feel competent, or have the tools, to do it yourself.
Hiring someone to install fans in the attic in this heat will drain your billfold, if you can even get someone crazy enough to do it.
Ron
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #2,276  
Are your ducts insulated? Have you changed your furnace air filter lately? It has been hot but it will be even warmer later in the week. Is there any chance that your AC unit has lost any freon? That could also cause it to run all of the time. Rick
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #2,277  
I put in automatic attic exhaust fans in my large house in Fredericksburg and the AC unit for the upstairs ran less, AND was cooler.

My house has soffit vents also, but the heat load on that HUGE and STEEP roof was unbelievable.

I believe they helped.

Be well,
David
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #2,278  
Stu,
Another thing to consider is, how hot was it?
During the hottest part of the day did anyone notice that the room temperature got significantly warmer than the thermostat setting?
Air conditioners are not sized to keep a house at a set temperature inside, no matter what the outside temperature.
They are based on climate averages, primarily because if you put in too large of a unit it will cool the temperature down
too quickly, causing it to cycle on and off without keeping the humidity down as much. Lower humidity is a prime feature of AC since it allows the moisture to leave your body, making you feel cooler.
I noticed you said the AC ran from 11 AM to 8 PM. Usually on units that have variable speed air handlers, if yours does,
the fan is set on the air handler to run constantly. It runs at a lower speed based on the outside unit running or not.
This keeps the air circulating in the ducts, keeps you cooler, and doesn't allow a hot pocket/volume of air to build up in the ducts that will be discharged into the living space when a unit first cycles on..
Ron
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #2,279  
Well, you guys will hate me, but I want to temporarily hijack this thread for my own benefit. The reasons I am doing this are because it has been dead as of late and because so many knowledgeable people check for updates regularly, I figure, for my own selfish reasons, I could kill 2 birds with one stone.

Because it has been hot as heck up here in the DC area, my AC has been running non-stop over the past few days from 11am to 8pm. While I don't know the exact specs, I have a 4 ton outdoor unit and a massive evaporator trying to cool an old single-level 2100 SQ-FT house. This is a 7 year old Carrier top of the line setup.

I think the major part of the problem is because the ducting is in the attic and it is super hot up there. I was thinking of installing 1-2 thermostatically controlled fans. My attic looks like a T shape with ridge vents throughout, no sophit vents, and gable vents on each of the 3 sides of the T.

My question is simple. Can somebody recommend a thermostatically controlled fan that I can install in front at least one of the 3 12x18 gable vents?
-Stu

You cannot lower the air temperature in an attic space by increasing air flow. Adding vent fans will move more air, but the heat will remain in the space. Attics are supposed to be hotter then the air outside so you will have natural air flow from your soffit vents to your peak or ridge vents. Heat makes air rise, so the air enters your soffit vents and rises inside your attic, then exits through your vents. More vents and adding power to them may increase the speed of this air flow to a small degree, but nothing significant to lower the air temperature.

The only way to cool your attic is to insulate it and duct it. This is becoming common with foam insulation as it's easier to maintain the air temperature in that attic with really good insulation then to fight the difference in air temperature from the attic to the living space below. The cost to do this is prohibitive and why most people don't do it.

You need to have soffit vents. They need to have baffles so the air flows past the insulation. Then you need at least a foot of blown in insulation for R30. I just did my parents house 2 feet thick for R60, which is becoming the new standard. If you can see your rafters, like most houses I've been in, then you need to get some insulation in there.

I like Attic Cat blown in insulation made by Owens Corning. It all costs the same, but their bundles are bigger and cost more, but go farther then the other brands. You buy fewer bundles, but in the end, you get he same coverage as the other brands for the same amount. Home Depot will give you the machine to use if you buy ten sacks. I used 70 on my parents 2,000 sq foot house.

Go over your ducts and look for leaks. Many times I've found where they have come apart at the joints and air is going into the attic space. Seal up all the joints real good and make sure the ducts are wrapped 100 percent with insulation. Use Foil tape to seal everything up. Never used duct tape, it will just dry up and fall off in the heat.

It's an painful, hot, dusty, miserable job to do, but pretty simple except for the pain and suffering of being up there. Do a little in the morning and quit when you get hot, then go back and do some more the next morning. Every little bit makes a huge difference.

Eddie
 
   / Building a stick frame house in the woods in 90 days #2,280  
I think the major part of the problem is because the ducting is in the attic and it is super hot up there. I was thinking of installing 1-2 thermostatically controlled fans. My attic looks like a T shape with ridge vents throughout, no sophit vents, and gable vents on each of the 3 sides of the T.

Ridge vent + gable vents is a non-prefered venting configuration according to the roofing industry. The airflow in that situation will be in the gable out the ridge. This short-path airflow does not help to cool the underside of the roof deck, and the lower 2/3's of the attic will get minimal ventilation, leaving your air ducts in some of the hotter parts of the attic space.

The 'fix' for this is to put in sophit vents, and block the gable vents.

The only exception for that would be if you have a whole house exhaust fan that vents from the house into the attic. They tend to move more air than ridge+sophits can vent, and in that case you would want to keep the gable vents.
 

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