1910 Short Circuit

[sruman]

Ok. So, I worked on the electrical system, got all the lights working just fine, and then, during a simple test, I shorted the headlight assemble (frickin stupid on my part). Unreal. Anyway, after a solid 4 hours of testing, I'm stuck. I know that it can't be that hard, but here's where I'm at.
Once it shorted, none of my lights work (hazards, fender lights), nor does my in dash instrument lights (tach, temp, fuel guages).
All fuses are good (tested them), none blown.
Tested the light switch, and it seems ok. the problem lies between the switch, and everything else, but I cannot, for the life of me, figure it out from here. Driving me crazy.
Can anyone, in the name of justice, let me know what the next test item would be?

Sorry to post, and I rarely do, but this has me at wits end. It cannot be that difficult. I have to be missing something simple.

 

[sruman]

also, if anyone could dust off a wiring diagram, that would be very helpful.
Thanks guys.

 

[RickB]

Blown fusible link. First part in line in the accessory power circuit attached with the positive battery cable at the starter solenoid. Ring terminal at one end, spade connector at the other; about 3" long.

 

[sruman]

Nope, fuse is good. So, it has to be the switch at this point. I can't imagine it being the regulator or relay. Would you agree?

 

[rayikeo2]

I can post a wiring diagram for a 1910 if you still need one. I will copy out of my shop manual. Let me know.

 

[RickB]

Nope, fuse is good. So, it has to be the switch at this point. I can't imagine it being the regulator or relay. Would you agree?

Off the top of my head, I didn't think the headlamp current ran through the ignition switch. But I could easily be wrong about that. Voltage regulator isn't involved, and the safety start relay doesn't affect the dash indicator lamps.

 

[Kopierguy]

I would think the 15 amp fuse would blow before ignition switch or light switch would be damaged. Looking at the wiring diagram, it almost has to be a fuse. I would remove the fuses and check them with an ohm meter. I have seen fuses that look OK but open.

 

[Kopierguy]

Has the problem been solved?

 

[RickB]

I would think the 15 amp fuse would blow before ignition switch or light switch would be damaged. Looking at the wiring diagram, it almost has to be a fuse. I would remove the fuses and check them with an ohm meter. I have seen fuses that look OK but open.

The glowplug circuit doesn't run through a 15 amp fuse.

 

[Kopierguy]

The glowplug circuit doesn't run through a 15 amp fuse.

Am I missing something? Glow plug circuit has not been in the discussion.

 

[jinman]

In all your posting, you have not mentioned if you have a voltmeter. You said you tested the fuses, but didn't describe the method. Anyhow, if the fuse is good, you should have power on the output side. If you have power there, then check the light switch for power coming to it (turned off). Then turn the switch on and check for power leaving the switch. My guess is that you'll either find the fuse was mis-diagnosed as good or the light switch is toasted.

 

[RickB]

Am I missing something? Glow plug circuit has not been in the discussion.

The key switch controls the glowplugs; the glowplug load is carried by the fusible link and ignition switch. Whether discussed or not, a fault in the glowplug circuit could be the cause of the problems. As yet, the OP hasn't explained how any of the troubleshooting has been done, or whether he has and knows how to use a VOM or even a test lamp. Corroded fuseholders are common on old tractors, too.