NH TC 35 front end loader hydraulics

[tractor ron]

I have a 2001 NH TC 35 that I use regularly . the last two summers I have had problems putting on the front end loader. one or more nipples on the hydraulic hoses on the loader gets jammed and will not click into the proper channel. Any ideas?

 

[J_J]

Just the standard use of the QD's.

First, bleed all the pressure from both the tractor and the inplement.

Then, if they are clean, just plug them in until they click.

There is no reason that they would not work, unless the o-ring fails or there is rust in the fitting.

Put a rag over the QD and tap on the ball or poppet in the QD. It might release some fluid, maybe not.

Now you have a good chance of pulling or pushing the sleeve and getting a secure connection.

 

[edcorm74]

I have a Massey 1246 loader that is leaking hydraulic from the control block. I took it off and Richie tractor rebuilt it for me. I Put it back on my tractor and it is still leaking hydraulic. I am not sure I got the hoses back on right. I had them tagged but I must have used washable ink. Is there any place I can get a diagram that shows where they go?
Thanks for any info you can give me.

 

[J_J]

On rebuilding valves, it usually can't be done because the spools are selected to fit just that spool.

You rarely see replacement spools.

Some of the high dollar spools have an o-ring seal kit where the spools exits the valve.

You can find the hose location by trial and error.

The pump hose should go to the IN port.

The PB hose should go to the next valve of hyd block.

The return hose should go to tank.

Work port hoses. I believe this is correct.

If joystick valve, move the lever briefly as fluid will come out.

--------------------- pull the lever back, that port should go to the base of the lift cyl.

---------------------push the lever fwd, that port should go to the rod end of the lift cyl.

---------------------push lever left, that port goes to the tilt rod end

---------------------push lever right ,that port goes to the base end to dump.

Another way is to take the lift set of hoses and connect to the A and B work port.
-------------------------------tilt ------------------------------------ C------D work port.

Activate the valve and see if the lift works correctly. If it is opposite, just reverse the hoses.

 

[edcorm74]

On rebuilding valves, it usually can't be done because the spools are selected to fit just that spool.

You rarely see replacement spools.

Some of the high dollar spools have an o-ring seal kit where the spools exits the valve.

You can find the hose location by trial.

The pump hose should go to the IN port.

The PB hose should go to the next valve of hyd block.

The return hose should go to tank.

Work port hoses. I believe this is correct.

If joystick valve, move the lever briefly as fluid will come out.

--------------------- pull the lever back, that port should go to the base of the lift cyl.

---------------------push the lever fwd, that port should go to the rod end of the lift cyl.

---------------------push lever left, that port goes to the tilt rod end

---------------------push lever right ,that port goes to the base end to dump.

Another way is to take the lift set of hoses and connect to the A and B work port.
-------------------------------tilt ------------------------------------ C------D work port.

Activate the valve and see if the lift works correctly. If it is opposite, just reverse the hoses.

Thanks, I will try this.
Richie tractor charged me $413 to rebuild mine. $70 for parts, $300 for labor, $35 taxes. Wonder why
they didn't tell me this. (maybe they didn't know) To be fair about it, I have not talked to them about this,
so I probably shouldn't be telling about it here. But I knew I needed help from somebody. They are not Massey
dealers either, so they did at least try to help me, when others turned me away. I'm so disgusted I am not
going to do anything today.
I really appreciate your help and I will let you know what I find.
edcorm74
I wish I had come across this forum before I took it to them but what's done is done.

 

[J_J]

You can almost bet they did not test the valve.

They did just what you wanted. You should have said something like if it does not work like new, I am not paying.

I will also bet they did not give any warranty.

In dealing with people you have to be specific. That almighty dollar take over and they just smile.

They will tell you flat out, we did just what you wanted.

Now, let me tell you this, you could have purchased a new valve, probably better product, more features, and have a warranty.

For instance:

Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL COMPACT 10 GPM JOYSTICK CONTROL VALVE

Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL 25 GPM JOYSTICK LOADER CONTROL VALVE

 

[edcorm74]

Thanks JJ, I feel like I have met a new friend. I will let you know what they say
edcorm74

 

[tractor ron]

It is still not working. is there a way to bleed the pressure from the front end loader hose if the nipple is jammed?

 

[J_J]

Tap the ball with a brass hammer

Unscrew the QD from the fitting.

Check the little balls on the female QD for rust/debris.

All the pressure has to be released, or most of it.