Dtented vs non-Detented Remotes

[gunmonkeyintl]

I requested dual rear remotes on my new tractor build (strictly on the advice of others, not really being sure what I'll use them for).
The original remote is detented, and the second that they added is not.

Is there any valid function for a non-detented one? I have my BH hooked into the dtented one, and I get why you'd want to be able to turn it on and leave it on, but don't see why/how I would use the non-detented one.

Can detents normally be added? Is this something I should take up with the dealer?
it seems like having one of each type could be more flexible, but I want to make sure I have what will give me the most functionality down the road and want to take it up with the dealer ASAP.

 

[J_J]

You might even want a 4 spool valve.

Some will say if you have T-N-T, to get two spools with float.

If you use a log splitter, you might want detent valve.

If you use a hyd motor on an implement, you want detent.

There are several kinds of detents. Lock in detent, friction detent, and kick off detent.

 

[gunmonkeyintl]

That is pretty much all greek to me.

All that I know is that one of my remote handles can be clicked into A/B/off, and that the other one has to be pushed to A/B and returns to off as soon as I release it.

I know that my question can be difficult to answer since I don't know exactly what I am going to use it for, but I'm trying to get an understanding between how my two remotes function and if it is something I need to get corrected.

 

[J_J]

Why not tell us what you wanted from the dealer.

You have to know the use of all the implements you might use to make that kind of decision.

The dealer probably sold you what he thought might need.

It should be your choice.

Some valves have options for detent.

 

[gunmonkeyintl]

I guess that is the problem - I do not know.
Several posters on this forum recommended that I request a second set of remotes installed from the factory. The logic was that it would be less expensive to do it when I ordered the tractor, than to add them later.

When I discussed a second set of remotes with the dealer, he did not present any options, so I assumed that they would come in one configuration. It was not until he delivered it that I saw that there was a difference, and am now trying to figure out what the practical difference is and how it will affect my functionality.

 

[Soundguy]

non detent valv is good to lift a tail wheel or fold a batwing.. or lift / lower lift axles.. etc. anything you want controll over vs letting it go full stroke, relieve and pop detent.

 

[J_J]

You do know what a spring center valve is correct, when you release the lever, the lever springs back to neutral, and hyd action stops and holds the cyl in place.

You have heard people mentioned T-N-T, which is used for box blade, bucket drag and etc.

You might use a spring centered spoolwith float which is detented so the box blade will follow the conture of the ground.

A three way detent will detent in all positions, and is useful for constant hyd flow.

A 4 spool valve would be ideal for med to heavy tractor use.

A 4 spool monoblock valve or a 4 spool stacked valve which can be modified later if necessary.

Do you have the option of changing the remotes taking into account the expense that might occur.

You could order up exactly what you want with the do it yourself attitude, and learn while doing.

Places like http://www.surpluscenter.com/hydraulic.asp

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_hydraulics

http://baileynet.com/

You can save quite a bit of money by doing it yourself.



.

 

[gunmonkeyintl]

You do know what a spring center valve is correct, when you release the lever, the lever springs back to neutral, and hyd action stops and holds the cyl in place...

...A three way detent will detent in all positions, and is useful for constant hyd flow.
.

That is actually helpful, and is starting to make sense. I did not realize that the cylinder would hold position after the handle sprung back to center. I though that the pressure would spring back as well, and that I would have to hold the handle in position to keep the implement where I wanted it. I can see where a non-detented one could have some functional value now.

Do you have the option of changing the remotes taking into account the expense that might occur.

You could order up exactly what you want with the do it yourself attitude, and learn while doing.

Places like Surplus Center - Hydraulic Cylinders Pumps Motors

Hydraulics: Hydraulic Cylinders, Hydraulic Pumps, Hydraulic Valves + More | Northern Tool + Equipment

Hydraulic Cylinders | Bailey Hydraulics | Hydraulic Supplier

You can save quite a bit of money by doing it yourself.

That really gets to the heart of my question - however poorly-worded on my part. I wanted to know if I would be able to reconfigure it later if I needed to, once I figure out how I'm really going to use the hydraulics on this machine. I have no issue working on things like that on my own. Depsite the ignorance of my questions here, I am actually quite mechanically-inclined. I just happen to have zero experience with hydraulics, and almost as little in tractors/implements.

Now that I know that there is some valid functionality to a non-detented remote, and that I can reconfigure it later, I will "hold what I got" until I figure out exactly how I'm going to use it and reconfigure it as-needed.

Thanks.

 

[murphy1244]

I use the second remote with non detent to run my Grapple also good for Top link.

 

[J_J]

Some valves, you order the kits when new from the manufacturer, and others you can do in the field whenever you choose.

This is a monoblock 4 spool valve, spring centered.

Surplus Center - 4 SPOOL 14 GPM PRINCE WVS41BBBB5C1 DA VALVE

If you look to the right you can see the extra things that one can do with this valve.

There is the three position detent kit for one spool or all spools.

It can be converted to closed center or PB.

You can make the valve into a joystick valve.

The pressure on a valve with the lever in neutral is very low if the bucket is on the ground, and if raised,the pressure is dictated by the load on the cyl.

A hyd gage is very helpful in understanding hydraulics.

I would highly recommend a 3000 psi gage in a tee in the IN port of the loader valve where you can see it to monitor and trouble shoot the hyd system. It will show the pressure develop by any hyd action.