Buty
Silver Member
Been thinking about my next project and I was thinking about a top link hydraulic cylinder. Has anyone made their own from a purchased cylinder? If so please share.
DIY Top Link cylinder
- Thread starter Buty
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Sysop
Elite Member
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- Fairmont, WV
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- Mahindra 4035HST purchased 2013 - Husqvarna TS348-D purchased 2019 - Craftsman 42" HST purchased 2003
As long as you have a hydraulic remote on the rear, yes, all you need is a cylinder that will support the weight range of your 3 point and will cycle the lengths of your original top link. You'll also need a pair of hoses with male quickconnects to go from your ports to the cylinder. Many times you will also want a restrictor to limit the speed of the cylinder. From my investigations most folk here go to fitrite for his TnT stuff. I think you'd be looking at about $330 after shipping with the hoses and restrictor.
MtnViewRanch
Elite Member, Advertiser
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- Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,
Actually the L3200 takes a smaller dia unit than the 4035, so it is a few $$ cheaper. A complete top link kit for the L3200 runs $255 + shipping costs and those should be $30-$40.
Depending on how a person wanted to do it themselves, but you could build your own and save a few $$. But then again there are guys who seem to have bad luck with these types of things and they would save $$$ by purchasing a kit vs doing it themselves.
Depending on how a person wanted to do it themselves, but you could build your own and save a few $$. But then again there are guys who seem to have bad luck with these types of things and they would save $$$ by purchasing a kit vs doing it themselves.
Rustyiron
Super Member
About a 20 min. job. BUT it can be subject to heavy loading and shock loads when bouncing over the rough stuff. You need to get it right. If in doubt, support a fellow TBN'r @ Mt. View. All I've read about him is good, and he does not "blow his own horn" when he has an opportunity to.
bubbacuse77
Platinum Member
I made my own and Brian gave me advice, which I thought was really stand up of him. I think I saved about half the cost of buying it but when factoring in the time and messing around with running to the store etc. i was maybe a 1/3 savings. I just like to make my own custom stuff.
I attached a picture of my top link. The cylinder is from surplus center and the rest of the parts are from a big tractor supply store named fleet farm here in Wisconsin. Speeco makes the cat 1 swivels eyes.
I attached a picture of my top link. The cylinder is from surplus center and the rest of the parts are from a big tractor supply store named fleet farm here in Wisconsin. Speeco makes the cat 1 swivels eyes.
Herkypilot
Platinum Member
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That's nice work Bubba.
Sysop
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2013
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- Fairmont, WV
- Tractor
- Mahindra 4035HST purchased 2013 - Husqvarna TS348-D purchased 2019 - Craftsman 42" HST purchased 2003
Interesting hydraulics bundle ya have there.
JRP
Platinum Member
I made my own and wish I had purchased. A store bought top link has a check valve arrangement such that when you really load the top link the check valve prevents the hydraulic pressure from pressuring up the hose. I don't mean picking up an implement, I mean the reactive force when the plow hits the dirt and the force tries to compress the top link cylinder.
When my box blade takes a big bite the hose swells and the cylinder compresses, changing the implement settings. The pressure is probably greater than my system specifications.
You get what you pay for. A cylinder and hoses is pretty cheap. Works for many including myself, but a top link with the check valve arrangement is better. If you figure out and buy the correct check vale arrangement then the price is about the same. Lots of additional effort and risk, but same price.
When my box blade takes a big bite the hose swells and the cylinder compresses, changing the implement settings. The pressure is probably greater than my system specifications.
You get what you pay for. A cylinder and hoses is pretty cheap. Works for many including myself, but a top link with the check valve arrangement is better. If you figure out and buy the correct check vale arrangement then the price is about the same. Lots of additional effort and risk, but same price.
