Float for curl function

[LD1]

kind of off topic but here goes,
Are loader mounted plows really supposed to be used?
i was under the impression that lateral loads were a no no for a FEL. opinions?

Nothing wrong at all. Just some over paranoid people say it is bad. But how many times does a front end loader experience an unbalanced load. Like digging and catching a root on just one corner? Or filling just one corner of the bucket from a pile?

There are a ton of loader mounted plows out there, and very few failures related to them.

 

[skyhook]

I thought of that also, but Roger said he didn't want to modify it, would sell it and get a truck mount instead.

Cut a slot where the front bolts are and put a big pivot pin at the back, like this.
View attachment 333082

I can understand your dilemma.
The design of that blade doesn't allow for it to raise or float unless the loader it's hooked up to
does the floating. In this case, there's too much weight on the blade, catching too much gravel.
On my Kubota, I have a similar blade, "no loader", and it has a "lift" cylinder also for it.
It does have the float option and only carries the weight of the blade itself,
something your trying to achieve.
Your only option, IMO, is to modify it,
or sell it and purchase one that does "float".
On another Kubota I had, it did have a loader, I modified "plate's" in the bucket so
my "power angle plow with float" would slide into it, as seen in your video,
worked great, as the loader would be about a foot above ground and the blade
would "float" the ground surface.
Good luck and let us know what you decide.:thumbsup:

 

[94BULLITT]

I can understand your dilemma.
The design of that blade doesn't allow for it to raise or float unless the loader it's hooked up to
does the floating. In this case, there's too much weight on the blade, catching too much gravel.
On my Kubota, I have a similar blade, "no loader", and it has a "lift" cylinder also for it.
It does have the float option and only carries the weight of the blade itself,
something your trying to achieve.
Your only option, IMO, is to modify it,
or sell it and purchase one that does "float".
On another Kubota I had, it did have a loader, I modified "plate's" in the bucket so
my "power angle plow with float" would slide into it, as seen in your video,
worked great, as the loader would be about a foot above ground and the blade
would "float" the ground surface.
Good luck and let us know what you decide.:thumbsup:

You definitely understand the problem. I am going to rearrange the hoses again on the loader and see what that does. I think the best thing would be for me to get rid of the blade and make my own from a truck plow.

 

[94BULLITT]

Well I finally tried rearranging the hose again today. I flipped the hoses left to right and it was the same deal, joystick left and the loader would raise, joystick right it would raise, regen it would lower. I got a little smarter and and swapped the loader lift hoses around and it worked.

I still want to sell this blade but if I still have it and we get snow do you guys see any problems with using it like this?

I remember ARC weld said I could bed the cylinders if I hit something. I may need to come up with a way to limit the travel the curl cylinders have. A strap like xfaxman said may work.

 

[skyhook]

I think if you keep the loader arms at the right height, maybe about 8 inches or so,,
you should be ok. You do have the springs on the blade and the cylinders are in float, so they should retract also. getting the arms at the right height will be key, I think.
You don't want the blade to start 'digging" into the gravel.
Then again, you have your "shoes" to help prevent that.
Pray for snow and give it a try.

 

[94BULLITT]

I got the blade out and cleaned it up to take some pictures to try to sell but now IDK if I want to get rid of it:confused2: I found a truck plow that would be a good candidate for a FEL conversion but this plow is nicer/ more heavy duty.

The plow has a adjustment at the quick attach. I am thinking about moving it down to the bottom set of holes, drilling a hole where the orange circle is and remove the bolts so it will float. Since the pin would only be going through the QA and the plow frame I would need to add a bracket to make a clevis like hook up to keep the pin from having slop and wobbling around. I can add a chain to keep it from falling when I raise it.

 

[skyhook]

Yep, that just may work out.
You'd also have to keep an eye out for those cylinder's,
to ensure they don't hit that 'top' plate when the plow lifts.
I wonder if you could add a "lift" cylinder instead of a chain.
Have a separate control for, with float. Just a thought , if you wanted to go all out.

 

[Xfaxman]

From post #22

------------

Cut a slot where the front bolts are and put a big pivot pin at the back, like this.
View attachment 333082

I got the blade out and cleaned it up to take some pictures to try to sell but now IDK if I want to get rid of it:confused2: I found a truck plow that would be a good candidate for a FEL conversion but this plow is nicer/ more heavy duty.

The plow has a adjustment at the quick attach. I am thinking about moving it down to the bottom set of holes, drilling a hole where the orange circle is and remove the bolts so it will float. Since the pin would only be going through the QA and the plow frame I would need to add a bracket to make a clevis like hook up to keep the pin from having slop and wobbling around. I can add a chain to keep it from falling when I raise it.

I think the pivot pin needs to be back as far as possible, like this.

 

[94BULLITT]

Yep, that just may work out.
You'd also have to keep an eye out for those cylinder's,
to ensure they don't hit that 'top' plate when the plow lifts.
I wonder if you could add a "lift" cylinder instead of a chain.
Have a separate control for, with float. Just a thought , if you wanted to go all out.

That top plate is not part of the QA so it will move with the cylinders. I could add a cylinder but I would need a divertor to run it. I have a idea how I can quickly make it so I can have down pressure if I need it.

From post #22




I think the pivot pin needs to be back as far as possible, like this.
View attachment 343087

Why do you think the pivot needs to be farther back?

I was thinking with this method if it did not work out it would not be modified much to effect the resale value.

 

[Xfaxman]

------------------------------
Why do you think the pivot needs to be farther back?

I was thinking with this method if it did not work out it would not be modified much to effect the resale value.

I build things using the TLAR School of Engineering method. (That Looks About Right)

With a longer pivot arm, the vertical blade angle will change less as it floats up and down. But your shorter pivot point would still work okay. You could put it close to the bolt holes and be able to put the bolts back in with the pivot pin still in place.

I didn't think about resale value, because it will work so well you won't ever want to sell it!