New Lights On ROP

[ice12585]

Any info or ideas out there about lights defiantly about the wiring would be nice, and appreciated!!! I understand that people
will disagree with holes in ROPS, dont really need advice on that!!!



If anyone has any pictures of there wiring that would be a great help, how they ran the wiring, the places that the lights, wiring, relays, switches where mounted would be greatly appreciated.

So its getting later in the year and with the day light getting less and less, I decided to put some work lights on the tractor.

So I looked at and have read a few thing so far on the forms about lights, but there seems to be a lot of deferring opinions of
what kind of lights, how to to mount them, and the really big one is all about DRILLING HOLES in the ROP BAR.

After looking up the spec on ROP bars and talking to a structural engineer that I work with, I decided to take the plunge, head first
in to the installing of the lights. I don't really know anything about wiring on a tractor :-(



One of my big concurs is the final look and function of the light. I realize that there will be a lot of people out there that would not
have drilled holes in the ROP bar I decided too. For one to keep it nice and clean, I wanted the wiring run inside of the ROP, and also
I do not want any big bulky mounting bracket attached with a U-bolt.



I ordered the LED light bar for the middle, and two LED 4"x4" lights for each side should be plenty. All of this was ordered from
Amazon.com It's all water proof, and shock rated. I started the install and wiring and then realized that I needed to install a relay,
for the light!! A little rework but it will get there.

 

[sdef]

I have ordered a pre-built light set for mine and it should be here next week. It has two forward looking lights and one rearward. I think they are halogen but will not know until they get here. LEDs are the most energy efficient, so you are on the right path there.

Mine will mount using U-bolts and the wiring is run down the back of the ROPS on one side covered with plastic, split wire loom to the work light connector at the rear of the tractor.

Your main issue after securely mounting the lights will be correct wiring procedures. The gauge of the wire is paramount to good performance. The work light circuit on mine is 18 gauge wire and way inadequate for the non LED set I have coming. I will wire a separate circuit directly from the battery to the light set using at least 14 gauge wire. But it will depend upon upon the actual current demands of the lights and I will not know that until they get here.

Make sure you use ring terminals for the battery connections and have a water resistant fuse holder. Mine will be located at the battery connection. Here is what I am using: Amazon.com: In-line ACT Water-resistant Fuse Holder - 10 AWG: Car Electronics
It is 10 gauge wire which is way overkill and you can use something with a smaller wire gauge, depending upon your current needs.

You will probably only need to run a single hot wire to the battery and for the ground side simply use a short piece of wire the same gauge as the 12VDC wire and screw it to a good, solid metal piece that is not insulated from the chassis and consequently, the battery negative side.

Post back what the current or wattage rating of the lights are and I can give you an idea of the wire gauge you need to use. Of course you will also need a switch. It would be best to find one that is water proof or at least water resistant.

Just an FYI: I have been working with electronics in one form or another for many years. For any terminal connections, I ALWAYS solder mine and then cover the exposed wiring/terminal connection point with glue lined, heat shrink tubing. Once my connections are made, they will never require any future attention and are 100% reliable for life. If you are new to this stuff, you probably will not want nor be skilled enough to solder the connections properly, especially with wire heavier than 14 gauge.

The best bang for the buck wiring around here is from AutoZone where they sell 10 gauge wire on 100' spools through 18 gauge on 100' spools. 10 - 12 gauge is ~ $26 and 14 gauge is ~ $16. They also sell the crimp terminals you will need. Pricing on smaller amounts of wire is terrible. Example: I just bought a 100' spool of 10 gauge to hook up a 30 amp lighter outlet circuit. An 8' section of wire was ~ $7 and 100' roll was ~$26. It is best to use a single length of wire to go from point to point vs. splicing and adding wire to make longer lengths. Especially for wiring novices, this is a recipe for future problems and something I almost never do.

 

[ice12585]

So I have been working on housing for the switches and the relays, its coming along. A little welding and some paint then a little wiring and it will be all finished!!!!
It's made from some scrap I had around the garage.

The switches are marine grade so I won't have to worry about them getting wet,

The bottom of the box has a gasket that I made from a sheet of rubber.

 

[bandaidmd]

Any info or ideas out there about lights defiantly about the wiring would be nice, and appreciated!!! I understand that people
will disagree with holes in ROPS, dont really need advice on that!!!

View attachment 339755 View attachment 339756 View attachment 339757

If anyone has any pictures of there wiring that would be a great help, how they ran the wiring, the places that the lights, wiring, relays, switches where mounted would be greatly appreciated.

So its getting later in the year and with the day light getting less and less, I decided to put some work lights on the tractor.

So I looked at and have read a few thing so far on the forms about lights, but there seems to be a lot of deferring opinions of
what kind of lights, how to to mount them, and the really big one is all about DRILLING HOLES in the ROP BAR.

After looking up the spec on ROP bars and talking to a structural engineer that I work with, I decided to take the plunge, head first
in to the installing of the lights. I don't really know anything about wiring on a tractor :-(

View attachment 339765

One of my big concurs is the final look and function of the light. I realize that there will be a lot of people out there that would not
have drilled holes in the ROP bar I decided too. For one to keep it nice and clean, I wanted the wiring run inside of the ROP, and also
I do not want any big bulky mounting bracket attached with a U-bolt.

View attachment 339758 View attachment 339759 View attachment 339760

I ordered the LED light bar for the middle, and two LED 4"x4" lights for each side should be plenty. All of this was ordered from
Amazon.com It's all water proof, and shock rated. I started the install and wiring and then realized that I needed to install a relay,
for the light!! A little rework but it will get there.

Is that your fish wire in the bottom photo or the wire your going to use? lampcord wire?

I hope you deburred the inside of the hole the wire is running thru especially if your not adding a grommet. look forward to seeing the completed project.
My light project is sitting in a box on the workbench, soon ,soon someday soon.lol

 

[oldballs]

Undoubtedly you all have seen some beautiful custom light jobs here on TBN. I went with the fastest set-up that I could install in a short period of time. My installation wasn't beautiful, but works. But if one is using the tractor in a wooded area, get used to the damage incurred. Thus I'm glad that my setup was spring mounted so they givea bit when clipped by a branch. I don't care how many branches that one prunes, there is always one more somewhere that catches 'em be they mounted over, under or beside the ROPS. :2cents:

 

[bakerg]

I also drilled into the ROP.:ashamed: Drill a hole for the wiring and ran the wire to the red marker lights on either side. When I turn the switch on the console, all the lights come on. Here's the thread with pictures.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/massey-ferguson-owning-operating/202732-moving-marker-lights.html

 

[ice12585]

I had some wire in the garadge that i used it is 14 gage, it is also covered with heat shrink electrical tubing and then run threw flex eclectrical conduit, wanted to make sure that it would be water proof and also look like stock. there are more pic to come, have not had much time to work on it. will be finished soon.

 

[ice12585]

well the light are installed and they even work!!!! i will say the box is really small getting the switches and relays and wiring and grounding everything was a nightmare!!!