Cheaper oil filters

[Ehanson]

Many factors are involved in calling one filter better than others. One thing comes to mind is the amount of filter media in a filter. If you cut some different brands apart you will see the difference, of course, the type of filter media is just as important. Other factors can be cleanliness (metal cuttings in machined threads), burst strength (cold starts), leaks (o-ring seal or gasket). Personally I think regular changes with good quality oil and filters can not be substituted.

 

[JJZ 109]

Amazing to me how much time people have on their hands to be cutting oil filters apart, spending hours online researching filters, etc.
Everyone has a different routine that works for them. Personally, I try to stay within the recommended change interval. If you do that, how likely is it that your filter is going south on you? Not very. Most times with my car & truck I just get it done at a fast lube for less than what I paid the other day for 8 quarts of Motorcraft and Motorcraft filter for my F150. Cheaper, easier and I don't have waste oil laying around.
With the skid steer I just use the recommended oil and NAPA filter because it's right down the road.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I think most of you missed the OP's point. The Kubota filter has the same part number as the Fram filter for his Saturn car therefore the Kubota filter is made by Fram (at least that is what the OP pointed out) so why pay $12 at the dealer for a $6 Fram filter.

No doubt some filters are better than others and I wont join the argument with those claiming better filtration from one brand over another. My opinion and it is just that an opinion, is that all major brands of filters do an adequate job of filtering the oil, just like all major brands of oil do an adequate job of lubricating the engine. Some filters and oil cost substantially more than others while claims of better performance abound, not many folks can wait around or deliver test results that may take 300,000 miles to confirm or debunk these claims and most all data from manufacturers are skewed to their viewpoint.

I have always used Fram filters in my cars and trucks and never had any motor issues. For many years I used Exxon (Esso years ago) motor oil, switched to Castrol and some Quaker state for a few years. I recently switched to Shell full synthetic for may cars and tractors. Had to go to Mobil 1 for my lawnmower as Walmart didn't have any oil labeled with the motor specs other than Mobil 1. Never had an engine problem with oil but then again, I never kept a vehicle more than 100K before getting tired of it and getting something newer.

Some folks make statements that such and such is "Junk" while providing not one statement or any data as to why they consider it junk, therefore those folks opinions can and should be ignored . I have used the dealer supplied filters for my tractors and RTV since I don't want to go to the trouble to cross reference to any other brand and for my use that is only once a year change so not a lot of value in searching, but if I were certain of a Fram or other brand being the one that fit, then I would not hesitate to exchange it for the OEM especially since my dealer is about 35 miles from me but I would still have to go there for my HST, hydraulic filters (don't know where to cross reference those either) so I just pick up the motor filters there too.

I have always stated in my posts that none of the manufacturers make their oil, filters and in lots of cases many other parts of the tractors. They spec something based on their requirement which generally all oil and filters with suffice. They get them from the lowest bidder that makes a product that meets the engineering requirements to put their "color paint" on filters, name on the bottles and cans of oil that is the same oil filling other cans selling at half the price as dealers. So if you find and verify a brand name other than OEM replacement for any item on your tractor or car, then I think they will perform just as well as the OEM part since it likely is the same manufacturer.

 

[oldballs]

I just hate people that have such organized thinking.

 

[JJZ 109]

since I don't want to go to the trouble to cross reference to any other brand and for my use that is only once a year change so not a lot of value in searching, but if I were certain of a Fram or other brand being the one that fit, then I would not hesitate to exchange it for the OEM especially since my dealer is about 35 miles from me but I would still have to go there for my HST, hydraulic filters (don't know where to cross reference those either) so I just pick up the motor filters there too.

Here's a cross reference place that I've used before if you're inclined to try it sometime: filters catalog, filter cross reference, fuel filter, oil filter, diesel fuel filter, fuel filter cross reference
If you aren't inclined to cross filter numbers, your past practice hasn't caused you any failures, so you're all set. And that's kind of how I look at it too. What I've done in my 35 years of owning and operating vehicles hasn't caused an engine failure yet. :thumbsup:

 

[JJZ 109]

Double post.

 

[Dr_Zinj]

Happen to like fram and use them on many things. But given that most people change there oil once a year why not buy what is reccomended? I put about 400 hrs per year on my units and change the oil every 100 hrs. I use the OEM filters and trans oil with castrol engine oil. Put 11,000 hrs (thats right eleven thousand hours) on my 1983 B6100 before replacing it and feel that giving my essential units (2005 B7510, 2300 hrs; 2010 L 3400 hst, 1160hrs) the suggested protection is money in the bank. I can't afford to have one of these units down between May and November. It's not about the cost of repair but rather the lack of use of the unit that has caused me to make this choice. History says the protection of the OEM filters work so I'm not prepared to risk failure to save a couple of bucks!

USAF recommends changing the oil on tractors only every 400 hours, or 6 months. And their tractors are usually used 24/7 by at least 3 different guys or gals each day. So to change every 100 hours is excessive in my professional opinion.

 

[WilliamBos]

At least buy a decent filter....fram is absolute garbage..I wouldn't put that filter on anything I or my friends family or customers own...

Fram has bought out Champion Labs, they are taking quality seriously!!

 

[WilliamBos]

As has been discussed many times here Fram makes 3 grades of filters at 3 price points. $3, $6, & $9. The last two rank among the best in many test beating out many $20 filters. Chris

Of all the services you have done that have left your shop with a fram filter, how many came back with engine troubles? None is my guess?

They bought Champion labs, things are improving.

 

[CobyRupert]

What makes a filter bad or good is a tricky question. In my opionion, it's not just a question of what captures the most
Given equal filter material area, a coarse filter material = good flow, but not so good contaminate removal compared to a "good" (fine) filter material which may restrict flow, and more so when the increaded amounts of captured contaminates restrict the flow more.
Pick your poison!
Which brings into the equation, how much time do you plan on running the filter (and thus how much flow blocking contaminates do you plan on collecting)?

Add to the calculation that different filters have different amounts of filter material (area) folded into them adds yet another level of complexity.