Crown 20MT Walkie forklift (lift-lower valve problem)

[Sodo]

Just call your local Crown dealer for the solenoid valve they will have it or the updated valve.

I called them, its $378 for the CROWN part.
I need to invest $600 in new batteries, then this walkie would be worth $1800.

….rather have a $50 solution or I should scrap it.

 

[aczlan]

$55 will get you a new solenoid valve from Surplus Center if you can live without manual lowering or you can install a pair of Tees and a manual valve ($40+ at the same site) to lower: HYDRA FORCE 12 VDC N.C. SOLENOID VALVE

Aaron Z

 

[oldnslo]

You guys could be right. The reduced diameter (near the holes) is .50, the O-ring seals to a 0.62 bore, so if those threads are 16 then the thd diam has to be 3/4. Can't measure it now because it's all back together.


Sounds reasonable to replace the solenoid valve block, but what if the manual control valve is the culprit?

wdc what's your company, & how much is that solenoid?

Sodo,
so we are hopefully talking apples to apples.
The O-ring at the end of the valve is sealing on a .625 diameter? Yes or no

What size is the thread size on the valve? For reference if 3/4-16 a standard #8 SAE fitting should screw right in.

Parker purchased several companies so if we can get the cavity / valve size figured out you should be able to get a replacement valve fairly reasonable. Possibly from wch.

 

[Sodo]

The O-ring at the end of the valve is sealing on a .625 diameter? Yes or no

What size is the thread size on the valve? For reference if 3/4-16 a standard #8 SAE fitting should screw right in.

Measured left & right next to the o-ring, its 0.62, so YES
Using a 3/8-16 bolt as a thread guage, I held it to the threads and concluded the thread is 16. I do not have any #8 fittings to test. Very very likely it's 3/4-16

I would like to know why you guys suspect the Solenoid valve over the manual valve. Its not the electrical part failing, it's the valve part leaking. Can I get a replacement manual valve too?

I suppose I should have another look at the o-rings, maybe they are getting cut on install.

Yeah I've had that thought just replace with off the shelf items, sounds like I can get all the questions answered for that too but first want to try to fix it without changing so much.

 

[js5020]

I called them, its $378 for the CROWN part.
I need to invest $600 in new batteries, then this walkie would be worth $1800.

….rather have a $50 solution or I should scrap it.

Holy Jeeze if thats just the valve, they are proud of that valve! I could be wrong but it sounds like they priced the whole asm,,, did they give you a part#?

 

[wdchyd]

$55 will get you a new solenoid valve from Surplus Center if you can live without manual lowering or you can install a pair of Tees and a manual valve ($40+ at the same site) to lower: HYDRA FORCE 12 VDC N.C. SOLENOID VALVE

Aaron Z

Sodo,

I'd buy this valve and install the fitting on the bottom (not pictured) to the original control valve (all put back together).....and the fitting on the side directly to the lift cyl.......if you leave the existing control valve then you won't have to add any tees or check valves ect.....it'll be just an add-on

then wire both solenoid coils to the down switch.....Your problems will be over cuz those cartridges have a built-in one-way check valve in the stem

I could sell you what I have but would cost more than this one

 

[Sodo]

Holy Jeeze if thats just the valve, they are proud of that valve! I could be wrong but it sounds like they priced the whole asm,,, did they give you a part#?

$378 is the entire manifold (complete valving assy). I will call again to get part#, and ask again if they offer the valves separate. Today's Saturday, will be a couple days until I can call, so I have a couple days to grumble about it.

Still curious why everyone suspects the solenoid valve leaks. I can guess that its got only a light spring pressure, but that sounds like something that is then simply fouled, and could be cleaned (?). Of the 3 valves
1) Check/hold valve (its a ball)
2) solenoid lower valve
3) Manual lower valve
Can you guys who have solved a lot of hydr problems tell me why the solenoid valve is the one you suspect?

 

[js5020]

None of us can actually see or hear what is going on with the stacker and the most common part to fail that most technicians would see over the years would be the lower solenoid, if I were able to be at your location I could tell you within a minute if it is actually the solenoid or related to the solenoid. There are many possibilities of why the thing drops, it could be a blown cylinder packing, it could be an internally stuck lower switch, it could be the lower switch is wired wrong, it could be wiring to the solenoid is shorted, it could be the mechanical section of the valve is bad, it could be multiple problems at the same time,,,,, there are so many possibilities and variables, internet diagnosis is difficult at the least. Do you have the ability to make a vid and post it to youtube?

 

[Sodo]

Perfect, need help from those who have seen it all

.....common....most technicians would see over the years would be the lower solenoid, if I were able to be at your location I could tell you within a minute if
......blown cylinder packing
.......internally stuck lower switch
.......lower switch is wired wrong
.......wiring to the solenoid is shorted
....... mechanical section of the valve is bad
.......could be multiple problems at the same time,,,
Do you have the ability to make a vid and post it to youtube?

Would try but youtube hates me!

It operates perfect, all switches all controls perfect.
The only thing it does wrong is creep down at 1" every 5sec when there's weight on the fork (&not when empty).
There is no noise, no vibration on any valve or tube.
The cyl packing is new.
If I run it up then led it creep down with weight (800 lb)then run up again then open a return fitting at the top of the cyl - its dry = zero fluid returning which tells me that the packing is real good.
Using the manual lower, I cant get it to behave any differently under any condition.
And electric lower button works perfect.

Can you suggest any other testing? Pretty sure the hold valve off the pump is good (visual inspection of ball& conical seat).
Would like to figure out betw the mech and solenoid.

Intend to inspect the o-rings again (they are new but its been apart 3x since).

 

[oldnslo]

Sodo,
Not exactly sure how the Parker solenoid valve is made but it has at least one sealing surface and possibly two. Since you say the valve is working perfect does that mean it lowers electrically? Parker DS091C D012HP valves are 3/4-16 threads and have .623 diameter nose for sealing in a .625 diameter hole. This is an odd ball cavity so finding a replacement valve may be difficult.

A concern I have with this electrical valve is what is controlling the lower speed when using the electrical. Is there a metering orifice in solenoid valve or some restriction below the valve. The DS09 is rated @ 5 GPM with @ 70 PSI pressure drop so this would allow the mast to free fall which is not good.

If you want to experiment: Remove the solenoid valve and look at the drill diameter below the valve cavity. Is the hole around 3/8 to 7 /16 in Diameter? Is the nose of the cavity reasonably smooth? If yes get a 1/2" diameter steel ball and a #8 SAE fitting. Put the ball in the hole install the fitting and operate the lift. The ball should seal on the nose of the cavity similar to how the check valve ball seals. You may need a soft spring to hold the ball in place.

This would help identify what is leaking.