3-Point Hitch Broke off a weld.. re-weld vs drill it out?

[BoonDoc]

Good suggestings, Gary. I found an older thread where several people had the same issue. The conclusion was that the lynch pin's shape allowed the bar to bind and drive the pin off like a chisel. CNH must have agreed because the others got the part under warranty and changed their lynch pins to fold-down. I won't be up at camp until next weekend, but I'm itching to get under there with my wrench. I have a small stick welder but I'm an amateur at best. Like you recommended, I'd prefer drilling it out on a drill press and using a bolt. The camp's off grid so I'm stuck using a small drill off the batteries and inverter. I'll likely just opt for the replacement and save the day for some hunting.

G

 

[BoonDoc]

Someone else's? You mean my pic

Read my entire thread. Check the lynch pin on the other side. See if you have the ones with the mushroom head instead of a flat side (I have a pic of the good and bad one in the thread.) if it is the mushroom head, they bind and the stabilizer becomes a wedge and blows apart the pin. You can also check for "marking" and gouges on the right side one to see if there is evidence of binding.

If you have the mushroom head, print my thread and take it to your dealer and demand they warranty it. It's a bad choice in pins and I made CNH well aware of the issue and solution last year.

Just a heads up that the first plate we ordered had the "correct" model number but was for the opposite side of the tractor. Hopefully they have corrected that issue on the parts.

Absolutely! It was by reading yours that I learned what might have caused it and that it might be a warranty item. Either way, I'll have a gander at the lynch pin next weekend. Fortunately, the arm seems to be ok, except for a missing pin for setting the length of the bar. I'd imagine it got severed and dropped.

 

[Jkott]

Boondoc, you will need a 22mm socket to get the plate off. You won't be able to reach with a wrench. The 3 bolts are for just the plate.

 

[TomSeller]

How fast were you going when you hit the rock? When doing ground engaging work I usually go real slow with my foot ready to stomp on the clutch.

 

[BoonDoc]

How fast were you going when you hit the rock? When doing ground engaging work I usually go real slow with my foot ready to stomp on the clutch.

Wasn't going very fast but it was on a significant downgrade. Foot wasn't even on the gasser.. figure she had plenty of inertia, though.

 

[TomSeller]

Wasn't going very fast but it was on a significant downgrade. Foot wasn't even on the gasser.. figure she had plenty of inertia, though.

Sounds like it sure did. I also use 2wd as much as possible and switch to 4wd as traction requires. Just the nervous Nelly in me. Sounds like you have a relatively quick fix and I bet you don't ever forget where that rock is.

 

[TSO]

I've put a call in to my dealer about replacing the plate. It may be covered under warranty but they'll need to send the broken one in to see. Either way, it apparently runs around $120. Here's a photo of someone else's plate. Same as mine. I'm just relieved to know it's a plate and not a pin welded directly to the frame. The engineers must have anticipated some broken pins. That was good thinking on CNH's part.

G

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=346083"/>

This tractor is actually an LS ... contract built for Case & New Holland. I know a couple LS guys have broken that mount also, but I didn't recall it costing $120. I'm assuming your dealer is covering the cost? If not, might be worth your while to check with an LS dealer to see if it's cheaper there.

 

[Jkott]

I'm assuming you did like I did with my tiller hitting rocks. They used badly designed lynch pins to attach the stabilizer to the frame mount, and if the implement would lift quickly when the pin was slightly twisted, the arm would bind when lifting, and either bend the arm, or blow the end off the pin like a splitting wedge.

When you get back to your tractor, I'd love to see picks of the end of the arm and the pin. There should be signs of the bad lynch pin gouging the arm and rubbing the pin if that is what it is.

Now, for loss of the adjustment pin, I'd be stunned if you cut it in half. I'm guessing when it came off the mount, it swung and if the pin spring wasn't tight, it would had
Ve bounced out. I think the arm metal is too soft to cut a grade 8 pin considering how much I bent mine.

 

[BoonDoc]

I'm assuming you did like I did with my tiller hitting rocks. They used badly designed lynch pins to attach the stabilizer to the frame mount, and if the implement would lift quickly when the pin was slightly twisted, the arm would bind when lifting, and either bend the arm, or blow the end off the pin like a splitting wedge.

When you get back to your tractor, I'd love to see picks of the end of the arm and the pin. There should be signs of the bad lynch pin gouging the arm and rubbing the pin if that is what it is.

Now, for loss of the adjustment pin, I'd be stunned if you cut it in half. I'm guessing when it came off the mount, it swung and if the pin spring wasn't tight, it would had
Ve bounced out. I think the arm metal is too soft to cut a grade 8 pin considering how much I bent mine.

I had the teeth of the box-blade set to their lowest position and was ripping the crown off the center of a trail where the crown was beginning to hit the differential of my 4x4. Dragged up any number of big stones along the way. On the way down a good incline she caught a big rock. Noticed a tooth had bend out 45 degrees and a chunk of stone had ripped off whatever it was attached to. I'll need to make a pass with my neighbor's dozer next time.

I'll post photos of the arm and mount so we can compare. I bought my Boomer in 2012 and would have thought they'd have changed the lynch pin design knowing it could bind and snap the mount. Could be they didn't, or maybe, many of the components are made in 2011 or earlier. We'll see.

The adjustment pin was missing when I noticed the mounting pin was sheared. Not sure how it came out or if was damaged. I had a quick gander at the arm when I swung it up out of the way and didn't notice any obvious damage. I'll have a closer look for any signs of wear or damage.

 

[Jkott]

I bought my tractor in mid August of 2012 and broke the mount and bent the arms by Labor Day.

I haven't been by any other dealers to see if they put a bulletin out to simple change the pins.

Was your sheered adjustment pin on the same side as broken mount, or opposite? Mine was breaking by up and down movement. It sounds like you may have had quite a lateral movement of the box blade.