I managed to make things worse! 110 TLB Transmission calibration help?

[Oysterhouse]

I frequently use and dearly love my 110 TLB. Recently the electronic shuttle shift mechanism that switches the hydraulic flow from the front outlets to the rear outlets stopped working . Pushing the button on the joystick results in the electronic icon in the dash indicating a shift in flow direction, but I don't hear the familiar "thunk" from under the tractor that accompanies the hydraulics actually shifting.

I thought that I would check the fuses, and when I opened the fusebox I was astounded at the amount of dirt and dust that had accumulated on the fuses and relays. I pulled a few fuses and sure enough, they were caked with grime and the terminals were lightly corroded. (The tractor generally lives on a waterfront lot).

Thinking that this "might" be the cause of the problem I decided to clean all of the terminals on the fuses and relays. I started with the fuses, pulling them one by one, cleaning the fusebox terminals and installing brand new fuses.

Some of you have already figured out what happened next------yep, I inserted a fuse into the vacant #12 fuse location-------which (according to my research on this forum) resets all of the transmission default settings to "Zero". Now the tractor is completely unresponsive to the forward/reverse pedals and the dash mounted creeper switch.

So I have two general questions for the expertise of this forum-----

#1) Can I reset the electronic values myself? Do I need any special tools? Is the relevant service manual available online?
Or is this a "Take it to the dealer and pay them whatever it cost" situation?

#2) Any thoughts on what the problem with switching the hydraulics might be?

Any help or encouragement would be appreciated by this very frustrated tractor owner.
(Really?? Just inserting a fuse in the fuse terminal will disable the tractor??!!-----Who thought that was a good design??)

Oysterhouse :confused2::confused2:

 

[disney]

Sorry I can not be of any help, but that is a mistake I bet you will never make again... And yes, I agree that was not one of their best ideas...

 

[Oysterhouse]

Sorry I can not be of any help, but that is a mistake I bet you will never make again... And yes, I agree that was not one of their best ideas...

No I won't be doing that again, in fact I will be fabricating a plastic plug to go in that spot in the fuse block.
And though I doubt that it will do any good, I will be writing a letter to JD corporate about the engineering of this particular feature.

 

[jenkinsph]

I agree about this being a poor design, Deere could have at least put a blank and sticker about that on the cover.

If it were me I would either take the tractor in or have your dealer send a tech out to reprogram it for you. Having them send someone out would be the easiest fix imo. Shouldn't be that bad and have them fix the hydraulic wiring at the same time. Since you can raise the tractor off the ground with the rear stabilizers they should be able to plug in and do this in about an hour's time or less. You will be better off having the dealer do this routine work for you while you deal with your business at hand as you should be very busy with oysters for the holiday.

 

[Zebrafive]

I would take a fuse that is blown and paint it bright red and put in that position. I might even dap a little silicone on it to make it a little harder to remove just so a "helper" does not try and replace it with a good fuse.

 

[mfreund]

You need the procedure in the service manual. I did the recalibration on my 4310, not sure if it is the same. One thing I found is you need to follow it EXACTLY. I could not get it to calibrate and my problem was in the procedure before the calibration it said to put on parking brake, shift range to neutral, release brake. Then it said to do the recalibration procedure. It would not work until you did that step first. Not hard or do you need any tools, just time and the service manual.