Chain saws

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Wow, 12 pages long and I'm not going to peruse this entire thread to see if I'm giving duplicate advice. I won't go brands as any saw will do you in the 40-50 cc category. Echo,Sthl, Husky, Poulan, Efco, Jonsereds, Makita, Dolmar….get whatever is in your price range and closest to you. 15-30 hrs on a saw per year is virtually nothing and you might be out there for 4 hrs but I guarantee actual use on the saw might be half of that. My bit of advice is to get something "light" as the most important factor. Even a 37 cc saw with a low profile 3/8" chain and a 14" to 16" bar will do you quite well. Saw size has little to do with what you are cutting and more to do with how long a bar is on the saw.

 

[yomax4]

Hmm. I don't think my 026,16" bar will keep up with my 044 20" bar. Both have 3/8 chain. "Size does matter".

 

[nomadros]

This might seem a wild card...I use Stihl for most of my big jobs, but for pruning etc I use a 10" bar Ama top handled (i.e. one handed) arborist's chain saw. It weighs 3.5 kg and I've been running mine for 2 years without any hassle. It's cheap and really works either as a back up saw or for orchard work.... for anything bigger though, I'm a Stihl man.

 

[RedNeckGeek]

Just went through this a couple weeks ago. The Stihl 032AV I've been using got hard to start, so I rebuilt the carb and learned that parts are starting to get hard to find, even in the after market. I really like the reliable starting light weight, and surprising power of my Stihl MS192TCE, as well as HT131 pole saw, so choosing to go with Stihl was easy. Looked at the Farm Boss and 261, but the only 261s available had the new computerized fuel management system, new and at least to me unproven complication that I just didn't need, especially since it increases the cost of the saw. So I ended up with a MS271, a nice combo of power (3.49 HP) and weight (12.3 lbs.), lighter than the old 032 that used to have my back complainin' after just a couple of hours use. Haven't had a chance to use it much yet because fire restrictions are still in place out here in N. Kal, but I've got three bus sized piles of downed trees to clean up this winter and will find out quickly just how easy to use this saw is.

The dealer recommended a place to purchase ethanol free fuel, and even at over $6/gal, it's cheap if it helps keep the carb seals and fuel lines from swelling. Even so I dump any left over gas at the end of the day, then run the engine dry.

Good luck with your search!

 

[arrow]

Hmm. I don't think my 026,16" bar will keep up with my 044 20" bar. Both have 3/8 chain. "Size does matter".

Has nothing to do with his use and his case and size only matters to a point.. He should get a comfortable saw. I've cut faster with a 50-60 cc saw than using a 70 or 80 cc saw that had longer bars. Using every size saw imaginable in about every condition and circumstance in N.E. style woods cutting professionally, along with watching different people using saws, I've come to several conclusions about saw equipment. If we associate "size" beyond cutting grunt, then i'd say "correct"…size does matter and in this case I'd select an 026 size saw all day long.

 

[NightFire]

I'm assuming that Seguin has trees roughly the same size range as the Boerne and Bandera area. A large trunk being no more than 2'. Normal trees having trunks around 1'. Most trees will be cedars with some scrub oaks scattered around a bit. With that in mind, nearly any available saw will be able to easily handle your trees.

I live between the Ozark and Ouachita mountains, my trees average around 2-3' trunks. I have several saws, my two oldest are a 40 yo McCulloch I got from my dad, and a 50 yo saw I can't remember the brand of, both still run fine, they're just a little brutal on the body. I have a few newer (less than 10 yo) Poulans that have been given to me, they were abused, but a little tuning and they're running fine. My 2 main saws are Stihls, a 250c with a 16" bar, which I use mostly for limbing and a 280 with a 20" bar that I use for bucking. I don't like the FarmBoss. I will be getting a larger Stihl for my larger trees.

Mt 250C is an easy start model with a quick adjust bar. There is no yanking on the start string, you just pull it out, at any speed you feel like, and a spring spins the engine.

All newer saws come standard with anti-kickback "safety" chains and bars. I hate them, regular chains cut much faster and are easier to sharpen.

I worked with the logging industry in WA state in the old growth groves for a while, they use Stihls with 36"+ bars. Those trees there are massive. My brothers and I got hold of a piece of one of the trunks, that one section was used for 4 houses and lasted 3 years.

 

[Mark 42]

I have a Craftsman (Poulan) 18" saw (42cc IIRC). I woods ported it myself, and it
is not a bad saw. That said, I needed a big saw, so I got a used, mildly woods ported
Stihl MS 440 and added extra openings to the exhaust and did a gasket matching
on the carb. It is an outstanding saw.
The next saw I buy will be another Stihl. I bought my wife a stihl backpack blower.
Both the blower and my saw are two engines that always start no matter how long
they have been sitting without running. I usually put Stabil or Seafoam in the gas
before I do the premixing (so that the fuel additive is in the fuel part of the mix ratio).
Stihl seems to somehow have the ability to build engines that always start.
I don't know what it is, but I find they always start. I don't know about Husqvuarna
or other high end saws. Poulan was high end many years ago, but they are now
throw away condumer saws.

 

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Doesn't need to be published -- just look at the emissions certification sticker on the saw, which will give you an idea of the hour rating. The homeowner Stihls have a 50 hour rating. The pro saws are generally 300 hours.

Something is off with this S. It cannot mean "life of the saw". When I was cutting I'd put 30 cutting hrs a week on 4 saws. So lets say 8 hrs a week per saw (which in reality is totally inaccurate) and a 48 week work year. That's well over 300 hrs and saws use to last me at least 2 years. Unless they make pro saws lousier now than they did? In reality I wouldn't hazard a guess that on some saws I'd do a thousand hrs after 2 years.

 

[DarkBlack]

I too run my saws dry prior to storage.

I try to never run a carbureted 2-stroke dry. No fuel means no lubricating oil. I also try to refill while cutting at the frist sign of sputtering.

 

[DarkBlack]

Good for you but my Echo is a 3-5 pull saw. Not bad. Set choke pull once or twice it hits. Turn off choke and another one to two pulls and it running. Now if cold lock chain and walk away for 5 min then come back and give gas.

Learnt many years ago start the saw before you leave the house. Don't wait till in the woods to start it for the first time.

My opinion on saws.
Echo- great saw run many years, slow and steady. Wish it was faster as you need chain speed to cut leaners or you will pull out center. 5 year homeowner and 1 year pro warranties.
Stihl- great saw faster saw speed. 1 year homeowner and 90 days pro (I think)
Husqvarna- great saw fastest of three. Also seems to run bigger motors doesn't bog like the others. Not sure on warranties.

My Echo is a 3-5 pull saw also. Maybe 6 after sitting a while. Once warmed first pull. It's an older gray model made in Japan.
Thing is, my Husqvarna's are the same way, and were that way right from the dealers when brand new.