Reloaders - Question on brass for newbie

[thatguy]

I am going to start reloading for my 308 - just to work up a good deer hunting round - this is for my DPMS LR-308 (AR type rifle)

Known Variables:

Varget powder, Winchester Large Rifle primers, Hornady 165gr Interock BTSP bullets, loading data

BRASS - I have several choices of brass, and dont know which would be 'best' if there is a 'best' choice out of what I have

a) Approx +30 peices of Federal/ 308 (FC)l 'once fired' (by me) as i was looking for a hunting load

b) Approx +30 pieces of Hornady Match 308 'once fired' (by me) as i was looking for a hunting load

c) Approx 50 pieces (I will have more as i shoot it up) Lake City (LC) NAT0/military (various years mfg) that I got in when i shot some 'Georgia Arms' "Canned Heat 150gr" - but unknown how many times it has been reloaded. I understand i would need to lower the power by a +/-2 grs using this brass


Thoughts on which would be a good brass to start reloading with?

thanks

brian

 

[vtsnowedin]

You will load them all in time. Just keep them separate and remember that a max load in the civilian brass will probably be too much in the heavier military spec brass. You can weigh them empty and filled with water to determine the difference in case capacity. The Federals and the Hornaday's might be close enough to group them together but check it yourself.
Remember to not reload if you're already loaded. :shocked:

 

[whistlepig]

For deer hunting and general target shooting I wouldn't think mixed brass would matter that much. For precision bench rest shooting different brands of brass can make a slight difference. Some brass lasts longer than others. The Hornady and Federal should be top notch brass. I have no experience with Lake City brass but I sure wouldn't rule the Lake City out. Brass isn't cheap. It would have to be pretty nasty stuff for me to just throw it away. If it works that's all that matters.

 

[DaveOmak]

Read up on annealing..... Brass can get work hardened after a few reloads.... A non contact infra red therm works well for checking brass temp for annealing... once you figure it out, the IR would be used every 3-4 brass... Also a case length gauge and trimmer would be a good tool... and neck chamfer tool .....
If you are using a dated reloading manual, over 30 years old... reduce the loads by 4 grains or so.... The old manuals push loads to the max. has been my experience... check the primers to make sure they aren't flattened and have the milling marks of the bolt face on them.... If they do, pull the bullets and cut down on the powder.....


http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

 

[bcp]

Don't automatically think all military brass is heavier than all commercial. You won't know until you weigh it.

See the table at post #10 below:
http://m14forum.com/ammunition/144295-always-reduce-nato-stamped-brass.html#post1192811

LC averages the heaviest, but some FC is heavier than some LC, and would also need a reduction from a hot load tested in light brass.

Bruce

 

[whistlepig]

Annealing does work on brass but annealing is a lot of hassle. Too much for me. Better to to use your own experience and pick some brass that gives you a good reloading life. Most brass available these days is all pretty good stuff.

 

[vtsnowedin]

For deer hunting and general target shooting I wouldn't think mixed brass would matter that much. For precision bench rest shooting different brands of brass can make a slight difference. Some brass lasts longer than others. The Hornady and Federal should be top notch brass. I have no experience with Lake City brass but I sure wouldn't rule the Lake City out. Brass isn't cheap. It would have to be pretty nasty stuff for me to just throw it away. If it works that's all that matters.

All true enough but new reloaders tend to explore some max loads trying to get max velocity not knowing that maximum accuracy is most often realized at something less then max velocity. Different brass brands can have as much as two grains difference in their max loads so a load worked up with one brand of brass might blow primers in another. The difference between military Spec. Lake City brass and civilian brass is often cited as a cautionary point. Just trying to save the new guy a face full of brass bits.

 

[whistlepig]

Granted. I made the assumption that the OP already was familiar with reloading. Just asking for opinions about different brass. If he is going to go max load on every flavor of brass there could be an issue. But I don't think that is what he is asking.

 

[krankieone]

Reloading is a matter of trial & error to see what wotks in your rifle my mate & I both reload .303british but what shoots sub moa in my Enfield shoots 3" groups in his Ruger No 1 and vice versa .I would pick a few cases of each type of each type loaded with the same load and see what groups best

 

[gwdixon]

Back when I was into reloading heavily the military brass had crimped primers. The primer socket had to be reamed out a bit with a neck reaming tool. The military brass was used for hunting loads since accuracy for that use was fine and if a case or two was lost it didn't really matter that much.

Military brass seemed softer if I remember correctly. It was only neck-sized to keep it from stretching as much. Of course, neck-sizing should only be done if the round will be used in the same rifle.

Also, as already stated, trim the cases to the specified length. It makes quite a difference in fine accuracy along with neck turning. Really long cases can cause pressure issues as well.

Cases that have to have a lot of length shaved off should be checked for head separation with a paper clip (end flattened about 1/4", and bent 90* to feel for an interior groove near the head). Not a bad idea to check military cases as well.

Some bullets just don't want to go through the barrel correctly with certain powders and loads. You may want to experiment with different brands and weights if that much accuracy matters for your use.

Components are much more expensive nowadays then when I was fooling around with loads so that may be a limiting factor as well.