weldingisfun
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2006
- Messages
- 1,792
- Location
- West Bell County, Texas
- Tractor
- Mahindra 4500 4WD w/FEL, and Scotts S2048 lawn tractor
Cletus99, I responded with this same information in your, goats being killed, thread, but I see some folks here are somewhat against donkeys as guard animals. We have used donkeys as guards for our goats for nearly 15 years now. During that time we have only had one dog problem. In 2005, we lost 21 of 28 goats to a pack of five feral/wild dogs. After analyzing this we determined that the donkeys, we had two (both jennies) at the time, were simply overwhelmed by the number of dogs. Also, we determined that the two donkeys were really bonded to one another rather than to the goats. We sold one of the donkeys and the remaining donkey very quickly bonded to the goats. She actually would allow the young kids to climb up on her when she was lying down. Since that change we have not had any dog/coyote problems.
Unfortunately, we lost that donkey and have since replaced her with another. This brought about another discovery. The new donkey had been bred and foaled, the previous donkey was barren. The new donkey, while protective of the goats, has not really adopted them. Our conclusion is the best guard jenny is one that has never been bred.
To address your question about what to look for in a donkey, the first thing would be to determine if she has ever been bred. Next, and very important, do not buy or take a donkey that you have not actually seen running with goats. Lots of folks will tell you their donkey is good with goats, but see it for yourself. Have you ever seen a donkey bite into the back of a 220 lb buck and lift him off his feet? That donkey is now running with cattle. If the donkey looks healthy and acts normal she probably is healthy. No one is going to give a donkey away or sell one for $100 and allow you to take it to a vet for a check up before accepting or buying it. Use your good judgement and follow Lockhaven's advice about the feet. Keep in mind, one donkey only.
Our donkey eats the same thing the goats do. Occasionally, we will give her some sweet feed as a treat and she really loves peppermints.
Yes, they do make a wallow for their dust bath, but on 35 acres a 10 foot diameter wallow is nothing to be concerned about. If you are keeping your goats in a small pen, meaning one acre or less, then forget all of this and get a guard dog to patrol around the outside of the pen.
Good luck with your decision.
Unfortunately, we lost that donkey and have since replaced her with another. This brought about another discovery. The new donkey had been bred and foaled, the previous donkey was barren. The new donkey, while protective of the goats, has not really adopted them. Our conclusion is the best guard jenny is one that has never been bred.
To address your question about what to look for in a donkey, the first thing would be to determine if she has ever been bred. Next, and very important, do not buy or take a donkey that you have not actually seen running with goats. Lots of folks will tell you their donkey is good with goats, but see it for yourself. Have you ever seen a donkey bite into the back of a 220 lb buck and lift him off his feet? That donkey is now running with cattle. If the donkey looks healthy and acts normal she probably is healthy. No one is going to give a donkey away or sell one for $100 and allow you to take it to a vet for a check up before accepting or buying it. Use your good judgement and follow Lockhaven's advice about the feet. Keep in mind, one donkey only.
Our donkey eats the same thing the goats do. Occasionally, we will give her some sweet feed as a treat and she really loves peppermints.
Yes, they do make a wallow for their dust bath, but on 35 acres a 10 foot diameter wallow is nothing to be concerned about. If you are keeping your goats in a small pen, meaning one acre or less, then forget all of this and get a guard dog to patrol around the outside of the pen.
Good luck with your decision.