Lights & Horn Out. . .AGAIN!

   / Lights & Horn Out. . .AGAIN! #1  

captaineddie

Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
30
Location
Georgia
Tractor
2013 LS R3039H
Well, my lights went out again tonight. This is the second time this has happened. Has anyone found a solution?
 
   / Lights & Horn Out. . .AGAIN! #2  
Well, my lights went out again tonight. This is the second time this has happened. Has anyone found a solution?

Replace the fuse with the next size up ... I think go from 15a to 20a
 
   / Lights & Horn Out. . .AGAIN!
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Replace the fuse with the next size up ... I think go from 15a to 20a

I'll check tomorrow, but I think the dealer has already tried that. Thanks for the quick reply.
 
   / Lights & Horn Out. . .AGAIN! #4  
Get it repaired at the dealer now. Changing to a heavier fuse is only a temporary fix. They need to find out what is causing the heavy current draw.
 
   / Lights & Horn Out. . .AGAIN!
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Get it repaired at the dealer now. Changing to a heavier fuse is only a temporary fix. They need to find out what is causing the heavy current draw.

I totally agree. The problem needs more than a band aid. The cause needs to be found and corrected. Thankfully, I have a good dealer.
 
   / Lights & Horn Out. . .AGAIN! #6  
have you added any after market lights to the circuit? Just increasing fuses wont help...heck you could end up melting down the wiring harness and having to shell out $$$ for a new one.

something else is happening
 
   / Lights & Horn Out. . .AGAIN! #7  
Show me a close up photograph of the blown fuse, and I will be able to advise you. Barring that, did you get a good look at the blown fuse? All blown fuses are not equal. You must examine them to help determine what happened, and WHY the fuse blew. There is Often more information available in a blown fuse than most mechanics realize.

Example 1: fuse that looks like it is intact but checks open. This is usually a fuse that has failed due to vibration, not over current.

Example 2: Fuse that looks pretty good, but you can observe a sagged and slightly open center, fuse checks open. This is "normal" slightly over-current and over heating of the element over a period of time. Measure the current that the load is drawing, and either correct the load or re-design the circuit, Check on wiring current handling capability or rewire, and up fuse size.

Example 3: Fuse is totally disintegrated inside, just gone, and inner fuse enclosure may be blackened. This is a fuse that has received a severe over-current condition. If the replacement fuse holds,(for a while) what you have is an intermittent short circuit. Likely a wire with worn insulation or caught/pinched on the frame. Every once in a while, it goes dead short to ground, and KAPOW!. hundreds of instantaneous amps of current is drawn, vaporizing the fuse. Obviously if the replacement fuse blows instantly, then the short circuit is still active, and would be more easily diagnosed. This would be an ideal outcome.
 
   / Lights & Horn Out. . .AGAIN!
  • Thread Starter
#8  
have you added any after market lights to the circuit? Just increasing fuses wont help...heck you could end up melting down the wiring harness and having to shell out $$$ for a new one.

something else is happening

No, I haven't added anything--the tractor is totally stock and only has about 28 hours on it!
 
   / Lights & Horn Out. . .AGAIN! #9  
No, I haven't added anything--the tractor is totally stock and only has about 28 hours on it!

yeiks..only 28 hours and its blown twice. Im thinking intermittent shorting out like described above. Luckly its under warranty. All it takes is a scrapped wire thats shorting out to cause the issues.

the biggest problem is if its intermittent, it will probably be hard to locate. I have these same issues with house breakers that randomly trip. they never have an issue when im trying to locate problem.
 
   / Lights & Horn Out. . .AGAIN!
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Show me a close up photograph of the blown fuse, and I will be able to advise you. Barring that, did you get a good look at the blown fuse? All blown fuses are not equal. You must examine them to help determine what happened, and WHY the fuse blew. There is Often more information available in a blown fuse than most mechanics realize.

Example 1: fuse that looks like it is intact but checks open. This is usually a fuse that has failed due to vibration, not over current.

Example 2: Fuse that looks pretty good, but you can observe a sagged and slightly open center, fuse checks open. This is "normal" slightly over-current and over heating of the element over a period of time. Measure the current that the load is drawing, and either correct the load or re-design the circuit, Check on wiring current handling capability or rewire, and up fuse size.

Example 3: Fuse is totally disintegrated inside, just gone, and inner fuse enclosure may be blackened. This is a fuse that has received a severe over-current condition. If the replacement fuse holds,(for a while) what you have is an intermittent short circuit. Likely a wire with worn insulation or caught/pinched on the frame. Every once in a while, it goes dead short to ground, and KAPOW!. hundreds of instantaneous amps of current is drawn, vaporizing the fuse. Obviously if the replacement fuse blows instantly, then the short circuit is still active, and would be more easily diagnosed. This would be an ideal outcome.

Weather permitting, I'll have the tractor back at the dealer tomorrow and I'll show him your advice. I'm going to watch to see what things look like this time. Since I'm not the only LS owner to experience this problem, surely there is a design flaw somewhere.
 

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