Field fencing vs. utility fencing for garden?
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downslope
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The brand of fence I used was BEKAERT SOLIDLOCK. You can get it with the regular shiny galvanized or a black sort of anodized/galvanized/painted coating. I went with the black because it looks a little better, but they both hold up the same over the years. Black might even be a little tougher. Only a few dollar more for the black.
Check out the suppliers others have mentioned. But try to find someone near you where you can pick up or the shipping will kill you. I only know of few suppliers in the northeast. If you're using wood posts definitely go with round. When I was doing mine there wasn't much dollar difference between wood or heavy duty galvanized tee posts. I have a feeling wood may be cheaper today.
If you want to spend less you can try other things first. I got by for quite a few years with just several strands of electric polywire and 3/8 fiberglass poles + a few tee posts or 4x4 at the corners; put up and take down each season, about 18 acres vegetables. Now I have ~25 acre inside the Bekaert. Another alternative is plastic fence, like Cintoflex P. http://www.waysidefence.com/literature/cintoflex.pdf Maybe this would be good for you since it is available with tight spacings and might keep small critters out all in one shot.
If there's other things to browse on in the area the electric fence may keep them out, but you want to have it fenced before they get a taste. If you don't mind maintaining electric, a high multi-strand electric high tensile would be cheaper that the woven knotted wire.
I've looked at quite a few fences in the area, some professional install, some DIY farmer. The pro ones usually hold up OK, the farmer ones range from excellent to schlock. The main thing with high tensile is proper corners and proper tension. With good tension you only need a line post every 20 ft. It's hard work to handle a 8 ft fence roll and you really have to stretch it with a tractor, a bobcat or several comealongs. Once the fence loses tension the deer will push on it at the bottom and bang the top when they try to jump. That's why with the plastic fence they usually anchor it at the bottom.
The USDA NRCS has recommended specs for high tensile or regular fence that you can Google up.
Wow, I was shocked how much metal fence has gone up in just the last 5 years; like 1/3 increase??
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I have pretty much narrowed down my fence choice to either high tensile field fence or regular galvanized field fence. My question is for a 8 foot fence should I go with an actual 8 foot field fence or go with a 72 inch field fence and finish out the remaining 2 feet with straight high tensile wire because of costs considerations? Thanks!
Circle W
Silver Member
I would do which ever is most cost effective. I do not think they will test it, just the actual presence of an 8' barrier should be enough. The only time we've had deer jump at the fence is when they are being pressured and become scared. If you do chose the 6' and 2' route, I would consider putting the 2' roll down first and then putting the 6' on top. If they do happen to be spooked and decide to test your fence, they hit about 6.5-7' up the fence. That would put them near the seam, and if a leg got caught it could get nasty...
But personally I like the look of 1 fence, it just looks a litttle cleaner.
But personally I like the look of 1 fence, it just looks a litttle cleaner.
HeLa
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downslope
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I think what he was considering/suggesting was not to use a separate 2 ft woven roll, but to put 2 or 3 plain high tensile wires at the top with the woven fence at the bottom.
That should work and probably save a little money if you use the lower cost 6' fence at the bottom. You may need a closer post spacing if you can't get enough tension on the 6' part. If you decide to put a couple of plain wires at the top I would tie some flags on them, at least in the beginning so the deer know something is there.
I have seen deer get hung up even when it's a proper 1 piece fence. It's rare but it can happen, considering the spacing at the top can be like 6-7 inch squares.
Western
Super Member
I'd go 7', then put the one wire at 8'. If your worried about the deer seeing it, put the wire through some 1/2" pvc pipe, that should make that fence "pop" when a deer considers the height. 20' 1/2" PVC is cheap.
How small of a grid do you need to keep rabbits out? No deer here but rabbits are thick. Was hoping to use heavier gauge galvanized panels that I could weld up but the smallest grid I have seen on those is 2"x4"
Western
Super Member
bdog, I have had those "non -horse climb" type panels and small rabbits go through it like a door. If they can get their head through, they can get in. 2" or 1" chicken wire will do the job. I put a 2' section on my perimeter garden fence and it has done the job. (put it over the field fence like a second layer.
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This method seems to make a lot of sense. I like the idea of putting 36" chicken wire over the fence at the base, folding it in half having 18" going up along the side and having 18" laying flat on the ground with either stakes keeping it down for the first year until some cover outside the fence can grow through it or on top of it and keep it anchored down from then on.
