3 pt Backhoe

[ZFish]

Hi Zfish, how much are you looking to spend?

Hey Corey Im looking at as little as possible! :thumbsup:

 

[GManBart]

Great responds guys! When I was talking bout the contradiction of the other I was talking about how they phased models out. Like my original interest was The LS R3039 with the FEL and Backhoe. the one guy said they were replaced with a xr series and the other guy sad they were replacing them with a larger r series. So honestly I dont know. Like I said in my intro I no nothing of these tractors. Im hear to learn and ask questions from the professional that live and breath these machines everyday.Right now im doing home work and checking them out. I like the LS for the reason of what they offer dollar wise. seams like the best bang for my buck.

The R series is being replaced by the XR series. Tier IV emissions standards kicked in for 2014, and the XR machines are Tier IV compliant. The R series are only Tier III, so any sold now were ordered as late 2013 models. The XR 3037H is a bit longer, has a touch longer wheelbase, and weighs 500lbs or so more than the R3039H, so that might be what the one dealer was talking about.

If you can grab a 3039 now, it will be less expensive now, and save some money, and complexity down the road (eventual repairs/service)....but the XR machines are very nice as well.

 

[deeregus]

"How was breakage accomplished" Here ya go; I just bought a 755 w JD#7 BH and was quite alarmed at the scary stories about breaking the tractor in half I read on the web and others of the ilk" 3pt BH is for V light digging ONLY" until I started reading others like the guy in this thread who beat the snot out of it for 20yrs. Another guy got one w 1500hrs that was used to dig sewer tank holes and leech fields. This info after countless hrs of research leads me to this thread where the BS that "takes on a life of it's own" (indeed) stops and actual experience takes the stage. So here's how ya break the tractor acc to my local Kubota sales rep who was a JD service guy for 25 yrs and is advising me re my 755 which he knows V well; He claims the tractor wasn't designed strong enough for all the weight of the BH and FEL at both ends and if you go over a bumpy field too fast it can break in half. My info is there is no frame per se but the weak point is at the engine/trans juncture. So I have an image of some dude maybe drunk blasting across his back yard or field and hitting a deep rut flat out fast enough to throw him over the ROPS and break the machine if not his head both maybe. Comical yes. Turns out there is a "sway link kit" made for the CUTs to stop the side to side slop I intend to get, but your post is the first I've seen re this vertical link chain from the drawbar. Where/how does that connect on the other end?? Can U show a pic? I intend to use the BH for clearing smaller root systems from the large well rooted bushes (jap honeysuckle and multiflora rose) in a hedgerow we're clearing after 35 yrs gone wild and for digging smallish hole to plant trees. Based on what I've found esp here (THX!!!) I intend to avoid torturing myself trying to fabricate a 755 subframe or buy the one Woods makes for the 790 and doing a nasty cut and fit job. Any other comments on the amt of abuse a 755 can take w a 3pt BH would be welcome, and please answer Q re the stabilizer link chain. Thx again Gus

 

[CharlieKtractor]

patiently awaiting the "vertical length chain from the drawbar" also w/pic

 

[Balerguy2]

The chain is OEM and fastened at the same junction as the upper ie 3PH center link (Back Hoe side, not tractor side). You complete the Back Hoe installation by fastening that chain to the (Tractors side) centered draw bar.

To operate you lower your B. H. (L-R) .stabilizers to tension that chain and a bit more to lift the rear end of the tractor's tires clear of the ground. You are protecting the digging induced tension on the center ie top link (tractors side) (very important) and applying nearly 80% of the tractors weight against lifting forces on the 2 lower main arms (re protecting internal rock shaft cylinder). Lateral lower link check chains must be installed and used correctly but you all know that. Extensive crowd/dipper and bucket curl spread the down forces on both lift arms and both of the Hoes stabilizers and helps protect the top links attachment re top of (tractor side) differential/trans/hyd. case.

Watch operators doing storm or sanitary sewer work with Case, JD or Cat TLBs and you'll see them do the same.................. especially in deep and or heavy digging.

You can see "The Chain" in the now included pixs. It is 7/16" Simple straight bolt/ washers on the tractor bar end.

Look at your "setup" and "operators manual". What does it say? Follow it.

 

[tmc_31]

Zfish,

I just sold a Bradco 3509 3 point backhoe that I bought in about 2005. I used it with my NH TN70D 70hp tractor very successfully. Dug a lot of ditch, Mesquite stumps and a new drainfield for my septic system over the years. the 3509 did not use any kind of chain or stabilizer bars other that the normal three point hookup. Was it as good as a Case 580? No but it did what I needed for quite a few years with no damage to my tractor. I do agree that a subframe mount would probably be better but it was sure easy to get the bradco on and off. I sold it because my needs have changed and I think a 5 ton excavator will serve me better.

I sure wouldn't shy away from a 3 point backhoe for occasional use

Tim

 

[lutt]

Hey Corey Im looking at as little as possible! :thumbsup:

I am looking at a sub-frame mount woods bh 6000 for my 4200 with thumb is 7750 installed at the woods dealer. My tractor already has power beyond, so I will not need the pto pump model. don't know if you have priced any but thought it might help. Also a LS dealer who sells farm line backhoes quoted me 3995 plus 250 for a thumb and that is 3 point hookup only. Maybe that can give you some comparison. Also, the bush hog with sub-frame wasn't far from the woods. I just prefer woods. LUTT

 

[deeregus]

Balerguy and all of U; Sorry I didn't intro self. I'm a 40 yr bodyman/metalman/frameman, and have learned to live by the KISS rule. I love this type of simple fix w a cheap pc of chain that someone has figured out how to redistribute stress loads with. I can see how you're loading it. Reminds me of my frame machine. A detail: Have U drilled a separate thru hole w pin in the bracket there below the 3 pt center cross pin for your chain? And do U just stick the lower bolt in another drilled hole in the drawbar? Last how much slack should be in the chain before the stabilizers start to tension it? You mentioned an OEM unit but I'd DIY it like U did methinks. Elegant engineering w a $10 chain trumps $2500 subframe? One of the pulling chains on my shop wall will find a new home, so people won't yank my chain about busted 3 pt BH mounts sorrybouthat Gus

 

[Balerguy2]

This is how I do it:

The bolt with washers simply goes thru the chain and thru the aft most tractor draw bar hole (washer & Loc Nut). Next. By the time the Hoe stabilizers are <45* the tractor tires should be clear of the ground or close to it. If not lower the stabilizers and select a shorter link in the chain to bolt to. Voila. One thing we can do that sub frame and permanent mount hoes can't is select the height of our hoe......... but, it is best (logical) to have the tractors 3PH lift arms in their lowest position, then lower the Hoes stabilizers. It'll take a time or 2 and it'll always be that same link so the testing out will take 5 minutes and then I mark that link. A heavy tractor (loaded tires) and weak hydro can struggle getting the tires light on their feet. It still works.

As always one must use their noggin. If it doesn't look safe (bad ground conditions, leaky cylinder, weak tractor drawbar, etc.) don't do it! YMMV!

 

[deeregus]

Balerguy; Thx for your articulate instruction on the 3 pt hitch stress/stability remedy. When I first read the scary stories about breakage probs I feared I'd made a $10K mistake buying the 755 BH. I'll think of U when I paint my vertical link chain to make it pretty. HA I got a JD7 BH manual coming from fleabay and I'll put your instructions w the first page. All this before I take possession of the tractor which is being gone over by a competent mechanic Thought I'd get a jump on how to use a CUT. This be a good place to learn! Thx Gus