What implements do I need?? BX25D + setting up homestead

[RodSerling]

Hi all,
I'm hoping to get some feedback on implements. I'm new to operating (~50 hours on my BX25), have just bought a chunk of land, and will be:

- Having a house built (hiring a builder most likely) (Are you clearing your lot for the house?)
- Building a gravel driveway (currently just dirt/mud, never been a road there before)(Front bucket is best way for this IMO)
- Setting up a large garden (1/2 acre)(Rototiller would be nice for that size and to till in some organics once a year)
- Setting up an orchard (1/2 acre, then growing) (Nothing needed for this I can see)
- Clearing snow (Snow Blower)
- Building a walking path around the property for the family (as time allows)

I've just bought a box blade from EA that should be here in the next few days.

Bottom line, with a limited budget, what other implements would you recommend if any?

Thanks!

I would also get a 275 gallon tank for fuel. It's nice to wait until the market is down to get a drop and also convenient.

 

[repete]

I have 75 acres. Been maintaining it for 18 years.

My most used implements (aside from haying and pasture maintenance tools) are: Front bucket, brush hog, back hoe, back blade (with weights attached), landscape rake, post hole auger, rear rototiller and two bottom plow.

Now that my driveways (about 4000') are existing I use only my landscape rake to spread gravel and maintain crown. I never touch it with a blade.

Gregg

 

[Tollster]

I did the same thing last year, had to cut a new drive with the BX23.

I found brush forks, and the BH thumb to be invaluable, as where the Piranha cutting teeth, but the thing that put the icing on the cake when it came to leveling out the rough spots, and grading the drive like a road grader was my used York rake.

Here is the lower portion, it is on a hillside, and this was all woods.. the old logging path went straight in from the road and up over the top of the stone wall near the edge of the woods.


Here is a shot before I put the 3B down.

And then the final grade, using the York rake.. you can drive a caddy up there now. I used 3B so the construction trucks will work it in, then I'll top it when we done building with smaller stone. Its a 180 view from a portable treestand

 

[Mathias NY]

The BX does not have separate controls to lift a MMM and the 3pt hitch. Therefore the MMM would need to be removed in order to use the 3pt. This changeover is inconvenient to say the least. I would recommend a 3pt finish mower instead.

We have the MMM and find that we skip several mowings during the summer because we don't have the time to swap back and forth with the rototiller. Long term I'm planning on purchasing another subcompact tractor.

You might also want to consider a small boom sprayer for your garden, something in the 25 gallon range might work well.

Good luck!

 

[snpower]

The BX does not have separate controls to lift a MMM and the 3pt hitch. Therefore the MMM would need to be removed in order to use the 3pt. This changeover is inconvenient to say the least. I would recommend a 3pt finish mower instead. We have the MMM and find that we skip several mowings during the summer because we don't have the time to swap back and forth with the rototiller. Long term I'm planning on purchasing another subcompact tractor. You might also want to consider a small boom sprayer for your garden, something in the 25 gallon range might work well. Good luck!

The MMM does not need to be removed, it will lock in the up position while still allowing full authority on the 3pt.

I tend to leave mine on until December, then remove it. I just put the MMM back on.

Now if you are doing work in the brush, woods, etc. or tight spaces having the MMM on might be an issue. Also with snow removal. But for general purpose work mine stays on.

3pt finish mower does sound nice though!!

 

[Biff09]

Thanks everyone for your input! Sounds like my box blade will help in cutting the virgin soil up and crowning. It will also certainly help me spread around a lot of gravel and dirt that will be part of the earthworks I need to do to get things setup. Sounds like I might be able to sell it after awhile if it is not needed for ongoing maintenance.

Things that may be in my future though are a back blade and/or york rake and a post hole digger for the fencing ambitions!

Here we gooo!

 

[jeff9366]

Land Pride makes a Landscape Rake that has an optional, flip-down blade. I have not had experience but have thought it an efficient design.

 

[robertm]

The MMM does not need to be removed, it will lock in the up position while still allowing full authority on the 3pt. I tend to leave mine on until December, then remove it. I just put the MMM back on. Now if you are doing work in the brush, woods, etc. or tight spaces having the MMM on might be an issue. Also with snow removal. But for general purpose work mine stays on. 3pt finish mower does sound nice though!!

Yes. Raise the deck all the way, turn the height adjustment knob to TOP position, and go. I do it all the time and the deck stays up regardless of the three point.

 

[RaydaKub]

Hey Jeff, would this rake work for breaking down an ice covered gravel road?

I'm not Jeff either. I tried mine out on ice last year. My wife has a bunch of bird feeders in the back yard and I had pushed a fair amount of snow across it. Where I drove turned to pretty solid ice. It was fairly treacherous to walk across it and she was not happy. I put my rake on and with a couple passes I was able to scratch it enough to make walking much safer, but didn't really get rid of it. I have turfs and no chains on my BX and traction became an issue when I took too firm a bite.