Will this one arm loader fit my 881?

Soundguy · Mar 11, 2014

if the bucket skin is bad, torch it out or use a cut off wheel and remove it. you can reskin with something like 1/8 or similar gauge sheet metal.

I reskinned one a few ys ago. welded the top back edge, then used jacks , clamps and ratchet straps to bend it into shape around the side frames and tack welded it as I went. when i had it all tacked in, i welded full beads and welded the cutting edge back on.

as for the cyl? take it to a shop unless you have a spanner for that large gland nut. and a 2 ton table with pipe vice to hold it down while you put an 8' pipe on it and have you and your neighborhood do pull ups on it for 2 hours breaking it free.

Standard off the shelf packing will reseal the cyl. IF it even needs it.

Last 2 i did were 80$ each.. done while I waited. ( less than hour )

Santa Craig Cringle · Apr 11, 2014

Well, I had a buddy come over tonight and spent some time trying to get the loader attached so I could at least move it out of my barn and get it up in the air to weld it. We figured out where all the brackets went and started to tear into it. First issue we ran into is that at some point when the tractor was repainted, the threads in all the holes for the side brackets were gummed up with paint and dirt. We did not have a thread chaser to clean them up for a bolt that size.

Found out also that I have wimpy sized sockets and wrenches. Thank goodness my buddy had some larger 15/16", 1", and larger sockets and wrenches to use. Going to have to buy a set for myself.

Went to remove the nuts for the front bracket and the stud came out with the first one. Spent an hour trying to get the nut off it so we could thread the stud back in. Finally broke the nut loose and tried to put the stud back in and couldn't get it in more than a couple turns, so we ended up putting the nut back on and screwing it back in until we could get hold of a stud extractor. Did not remove the 2nd one because we didn't want the block to become misaligned with the front end.

Finally, I did succeed in getting the loader up on the jack stand that came with it. Whoever had owned the loader before had driven nails into the cotter pin holes, which had rusted and broke off when I tried to pull them. Thankfully, I had a punch to hammer them out from the other side. Tried to remove the broken off rotten hose and didn't have a wrench big enough.

Overall, doesn't feel like we accomplished much, but we have a good understanding of how it goes together and what tools we need.
Not sure where the short small bracket goes, though. The one that is about 3" long with the holes in each end.

Green Power · Apr 12, 2014

So i imagine its a ways off but do you plan on painting the loader? If so what color(s). This will be a fun thread to watch.

Santa Craig Cringle · Apr 12, 2014

Green Power said:
So i imagine its a ways off but do you plan on painting the loader? If so what color(s). This will be a fun thread to watch.

Might be a winter project. Right now I just need to get it usable as quickly as I can. Have lots of spring planting activities and builds to put it to work on.

Soundguy · Apr 12, 2014

that front bracket doesn't thread into the engine. I think you took the wrong fastener off! it goes on the front bolster!!!!

also.. with no chase.. just take a spare bolt, cut a groove in it and take a griner and taper the first 5 threads or so a bit.. clean with a triangle file.

there you go.. thread chase.

tip. spray some carb cleaner up in there to soften the paint. then use spray oil while tapping.

Soundguy · Apr 12, 2014

now that i re read it. are you going THRU the bolster? post isn't clear on that. it should not bolt directly to the block.

Santa Craig Cringle · Apr 22, 2014

Soundguy said:
now that i re read it. are you going THRU the bolster? post isn't clear on that. it should not bolt directly to the block.

Haven't had a chance to get back to it. Next time I work on it I'll take some pictures.

Basically there's a "housing" near the front just behind the axle if I recall. There's access for a couple 1 1/4" (I think) nuts. When I tried to back one off, a stud came along with it. One end was 5/8" coarse thread, the other end was 5/8" fine thread. I thought the nuts were supposed to come off the stud and a bracket mounted there using the tapered nuts that came with the mounting kit that KirkNJ sent me.

When we couldn't get the nuts off without taking the stud out or damaging the threads, we put it back in until I could borrow a friend's stud extractor. Haven't gotten back to it since.

Soundguy · Apr 22, 2014

the front bracket mounts to open holes in the bolster ...

Kirk-NJ · Apr 22, 2014

He is talking about the stiffner piece with the 3 holes about 10" long that bolts to the front bracket and then up thru the hole and connect with to the studs that hold the axle carrier to the block using lug nuts. The stupid post office busted the box and that piece was gone. I had to fabricate him up another on. This is the stud he's talking abiout.

The 3" bracket with holes on each side goes under the tranny in the two bolt holes. One side holds the bracket that goes to the tab mount at the botom of the frame.