Will this one arm loader fit my 881?

[Soundguy]

mild steel or tempered?

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

Here is a shot of my homemade bracket and a bracket from one of my row crops. This bracket is an offset to mount the short box. The front row crop bracket is a whole other thing.
Your'e kind of getting a head of yourself. first find out is the owner has any bracket, if not he still might be holding around that price because he thinks it's "rare".
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on my way to look at it now. just want a good education before I go. I'm guessing he doesn't know what tractor it came off of. he buys and sells as a hobby. he is unsure which brackets he has. he just knows he has some. the tractor is at another location so he couldn't just go and check.

if he doesn't have all the brackets, I'm not buying. I have enough projects on my plate right now. I need something that can work now for spring. don't have the luxury of waiting for some parts to become available.

 

[Kirk-NJ]

As a buyer/seller he should at least know what he's selling. He knows enough about it to put a price tag on it. The main concern should be the hip bracket, The flat stock can easily be fabbed up. I can even trace the flat pieces and send them to you. Condition of the bucket is also important, which you can not see from photos. If you can take some photos of the brackets it might help for a better ID.

Kirk

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

As a buyer/seller he should at least know what he's selling. He knows enough about it to put a price tag on it. The main concern should be the hip bracket, The flat stock can easily be fabbed up. I can even trace the flat pieces and send them to you. Condition of the bucket is also important, which you can not see from photos. If you can take some photos of the brackets it might help for a better ID.

Kirk

he did say the bucket needs a little metal added along one of the welds. like at one of the corners of the bucket

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

Well, only one bracket seemed to match up. I took some pictures and told the guy I had more work to do. He had a manual and I took some shots of that too. Note all these pics were taken via flashlight so visibility may not be great. Looks to me like these brackets might be for an 8N. He thinks he took it off a 4000, and claimed he'd never seen an 8N with this loader.

The metal itself was all pretty solid, except for the rear bottom corner of the bucket which was rusted thru all the way across. The bucket release mechanism also looked like it would be a chore to remove all the rust on it.

 

[Kirk-NJ]

This is an incomplete set for an 8n. If he still has the tractor some of the brackets are probably still on there. If interested I would trade a complete set of brackets for mounting on your tractor. If interest send me a pm to work out the details. From the photo it's hard to tell the condition of the bucket or anything else.

Kirk

 

[Soundguy]

wow.. kirk got to you before I did.. but as you now know.. you will have little problem trading 8n brackets for 00/01 series brackets I'd make the trade too.

8n, dexta and NAA brackets are the most rare.

 

[Kirk-NJ]

We made a deal and he will get his 881 loader on and I'll fab up the rest of the 8n brackets so I can get the one arm manure loader on the 8n and get some more manure on the garden before plowing, if this 2' of snow/ice ever melts.

Kirk

 

[Soundguy]

good deal. I did a simalr deal on a naa bracket set, swapping 00 brackets for naa brackets. now i have a 711 on my naa.

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

Loader will be delivered with brackets/manual tonight. Going to garage it for now so it doesn't continue to deteriorate.

Can someone point me to a good thread that talks about how to do body/metal restoration and/or hydraulic cylinder restoration, step-by-step? This loader that I'm getting will need some work. I'm not too worried about the body rust right now, but want to get the bucket fixed up and all the mechanisms and hydraulics working asap.

 

[Soundguy]

if the bucket skin is bad, torch it out or use a cut off wheel and remove it. you can reskin with something like 1/8 or similar gauge sheet metal.

I reskinned one a few ys ago. welded the top back edge, then used jacks , clamps and ratchet straps to bend it into shape around the side frames and tack welded it as I went. when i had it all tacked in, i welded full beads and welded the cutting edge back on.

as for the cyl? take it to a shop unless you have a spanner for that large gland nut. and a 2 ton table with pipe vice to hold it down while you put an 8' pipe on it and have you and your neighborhood do pull ups on it for 2 hours breaking it free.

Standard off the shelf packing will reseal the cyl. IF it even needs it.

Last 2 i did were 80$ each.. done while I waited. ( less than hour )

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

Well, I had a buddy come over tonight and spent some time trying to get the loader attached so I could at least move it out of my barn and get it up in the air to weld it. We figured out where all the brackets went and started to tear into it. First issue we ran into is that at some point when the tractor was repainted, the threads in all the holes for the side brackets were gummed up with paint and dirt. We did not have a thread chaser to clean them up for a bolt that size.

Found out also that I have wimpy sized sockets and wrenches. Thank goodness my buddy had some larger 15/16", 1", and larger sockets and wrenches to use. Going to have to buy a set for myself.

Went to remove the nuts for the front bracket and the stud came out with the first one. Spent an hour trying to get the nut off it so we could thread the stud back in. Finally broke the nut loose and tried to put the stud back in and couldn't get it in more than a couple turns, so we ended up putting the nut back on and screwing it back in until we could get hold of a stud extractor. Did not remove the 2nd one because we didn't want the block to become misaligned with the front end.

Finally, I did succeed in getting the loader up on the jack stand that came with it. Whoever had owned the loader before had driven nails into the cotter pin holes, which had rusted and broke off when I tried to pull them. Thankfully, I had a punch to hammer them out from the other side. Tried to remove the broken off rotten hose and didn't have a wrench big enough.

Overall, doesn't feel like we accomplished much, but we have a good understanding of how it goes together and what tools we need.
Not sure where the short small bracket goes, though. The one that is about 3" long with the holes in each end.

 

[Green Power]

So i imagine its a ways off but do you plan on painting the loader? If so what color(s). This will be a fun thread to watch.

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

So i imagine its a ways off but do you plan on painting the loader? If so what color(s). This will be a fun thread to watch.

Might be a winter project. Right now I just need to get it usable as quickly as I can. Have lots of spring planting activities and builds to put it to work on.

 

[Soundguy]

that front bracket doesn't thread into the engine. I think you took the wrong fastener off! it goes on the front bolster!!!!

also.. with no chase.. just take a spare bolt, cut a groove in it and take a griner and taper the first 5 threads or so a bit.. clean with a triangle file.

there you go.. thread chase.

tip. spray some carb cleaner up in there to soften the paint. then use spray oil while tapping.

 

[Soundguy]

now that i re read it. are you going THRU the bolster? post isn't clear on that. it should not bolt directly to the block.

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

now that i re read it. are you going THRU the bolster? post isn't clear on that. it should not bolt directly to the block.

Haven't had a chance to get back to it. Next time I work on it I'll take some pictures.

Basically there's a "housing" near the front just behind the axle if I recall. There's access for a couple 1 1/4" (I think) nuts. When I tried to back one off, a stud came along with it. One end was 5/8" coarse thread, the other end was 5/8" fine thread. I thought the nuts were supposed to come off the stud and a bracket mounted there using the tapered nuts that came with the mounting kit that KirkNJ sent me.

When we couldn't get the nuts off without taking the stud out or damaging the threads, we put it back in until I could borrow a friend's stud extractor. Haven't gotten back to it since.

 

[Soundguy]

the front bracket mounts to open holes in the bolster ...

 

[Kirk-NJ]

He is talking about the stiffner piece with the 3 holes about 10" long that bolts to the front bracket and then up thru the hole and connect with to the studs that hold the axle carrier to the block using lug nuts. The stupid post office busted the box and that piece was gone. I had to fabricate him up another on. This is the stud he's talking abiout.

The 3" bracket with holes on each side goes under the tranny in the two bolt holes. One side holds the bracket that goes to the tab mount at the botom of the frame.

 

[Soundguy]

ahh.. the lil bar.. got ya...

BTDT witht e post office loosing small parts for me too.